"Thai" Will Always Love You (Part 4): Bangkok's Chinatown and Other Temples

- July 21, 2024, Monday.

- My Monday was a decompression day after so many things that happened to me in Bangkok since the day I arrived days prior. I had a loose agenda for the day, and it also gave me more time to do some work at the hostel.

- I started my day by visiting Wat Traimit (Hua Lamphong MRT station). Originally built in the 1800s, its current incarnation was built in the 1940s. It is a Chinese-Thai style Buddhist temple, and also regarded as a royal temple. 

Wat Traimit.

So lucky to have this nice photo since the temple was a bit crowded.

With the photo of King Vajiralongkorn (King Rama X).

Golden Buddha inside the temple. The buddha itself is historic and miraculous. It is said to have been created in the 13-14th centuries, and due to many wars and other historical events, the Buddha was placed inside a plaster casing to make it look less valuable. In 1955 when it was about to be placed inside Wat Traimit, the ropes transporting the Buddha broke, dropping the statue and chipping the plaster. It was only then they discovered the real golden Buddha inside. It is also said that this is the largest golden Buddha statue in the world. 

- Across Wait Traimit is the Chinatown arch. I just took photos of it before riding a tuktuk to Wat Mangkon (Wat Mangkon MRT). It is a Chinese temple built in the 1870s, Not only did I appreciate the temple's historical value, but I appreciated it more because it was airconditioned and had clean toilets! (It so happened that I really really had to go potty while I was at the temple.)

Just to let you know that this is Chinatown Bangkok: the Chinese gate with some tuktuks.

Close up of the arch/gate.

Honestly, this is my first officia ltuktuk ride in Thailand - and yes, only during my third visit. I avoided tuktuks like the plague because I didn't want to get ripped off. I think I still got ripped off but it wasn't that bad if ever.

Inside Wat Mangkon. I couldn't take a photo of the temple's facade as there were renovations going on.

Temple guardians. (They were HUGE.)

- I later visited Sampeng Market, which is a narrow street market spanning several blocks in Chinatown. Honestly, I should have known about this market earlier because this is the BEST PLACE TO SHOP in Bangkok. As it is a wholesale market, its prices are a lot cheaper even compared to neighboring Phahurat standards. (Sellers actually come to Sampeng Market to look for things to sell in their own stores.) I did get a few things, but had I known about this market, I would have bought all my necklaces and bracelets here HAHA. However, Thai costumes are still a bit hard to find here, and most of them are in Phahurat (which, again, it just within the area).

Sampeng Market.

- I spent the rest of the morning back at the hostel trying to do some work and fixing some of my things. That afternoon, I finally decided to visit Wat Saket (Golden Mount). In previous trips to Bangkok, I passed on Wat Saket in favor of other "more interesting" places in Bangkok. I think it had its revenge on me because now that I decided to visit it, the main tower was being renovated. (So, maybe, I'll just return next time, if I could.) Wat Saket was a lot more interesting than I thought. The artificial hill was built in the early 1800s during King Rama III's reign (King Nangklao), while the main temple that stands was built decades later by King Rama V (King Chulalongkorn). Today, the temple grounds not only has the temple on the hill, but also some museums. But because the main temple was under renovation, I didn't explore too much since I'd rather pay my entrance ticket when everything's nice and renovated. I had lunch at a food stall in the temple grounds and left not long after.

Giant peacock.

I lost all willpower to explore the area when I saw the renovations. I still looks nice, but it'd be nicer without the scaffolding.

It does look majestic! (I want to see its full glory!)

- Near the Golden Mount is the giant swing, built in the 1700s for a Brahmin ceremony. They halted these ceremonies since the giant swing had signs of use and many fatal accidents happened as well.

Giant Swing with tuktuk.

Giant Swing without tuktuk.

- I later passed by the Dev Mandir Hindu Temple, close to the Giant Swing. The Dev Mandir is one of the oldest Hindu temples in Bangkok (though not the oldest,) as it was inaugurated in 1969. Its roots go decades prior, spearheaded by Pandit Raghunath Sharma, a Sanskrit specialist. The trip to the temple was a nice surprise because it wasn't part of my plan, but I was happy to see at least one contemporary Hindu temple in Bangkok. I was also happy to know that the temple is also supporting a school called "Bharat Vidhalaya", a basic education school located within the temple grounds.

Dev Mandir.

It reminds me of the many Sindhi-Hindu temples I visited, including the one here in Manila. 

Even the way the deities are placed and dressed appear similar.

The Hindu organization governing the temple and school.

- That evening I once again headed to Platinum to eat some nice seafood. I strolled for a bit before toiling the night away back at the hostel. It was a nice "relaxed" day despite balancing my time between sightseeing and touring, as with most days.

I loved the seasnails (middle), and the Thai coconut juice that I had almost daily because I love coconuts so much.

- My trip to Bangkok isn't over yet because I had more to see and do for my last full day in the city! There's just so many nice things to see and to in this city!

- Check out my other adventures for this Thailand trip!

Part 1 (Phahurat and Mahidol University): here

Part 2 (Nakhon Pathom): here

Part 3 (Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun, Kudeejeen): here

Part 5 (Ancient City, Erawan Museum, Terminal 21): here

"Thai" Will Always Love You (Part 3): Bangkok's Royal District and Portuguese Village

- July 21, 2024, Sunday.

- Continuing my work-ventures in Bangkok, I looked forward to Sunday because I planned to visit two opposite neighborhoods in Bangkok. The first was the royal district of Bangkok, called Rattanakosin, and afterwards, I visited a less-touristy but equally-interesting Kudeejeen, or Bangkok's Portuguese village/neighborhood.

- I started the morning by visiting the Grand Palace (the whole area is close to Sanam Chai Metro station, but given the huge area, best to just take a taxi or Grab directly to the Grand Palace). People will usually start their visit by going through Wat Phra Kaew, of the Emerald Buddha Temple, built in 1785. The temple grounds were open, but because of the Buddhist Lent holiday, the main temple was closed (I saw the Emerald Buddha twice before anyway, so I'm good). 

Welcomeeeeee.

Prasat Phra Thep Bidon, or Royal Pantheon. It was built originally to house the Emerald Buddha, but now serves as a memorial to royal predecessors.

Emerald Buddha Hall (which was closed for the day.)

Temple guardians.

Different styles of stupas of the temple (Burmese, Thai, and Cambodian).

- I'm so happy I started early and that I started with the Grand Palace, because I found out that the palace would only be open half day for the holiday. And since I had an early start, it was not as crowded despite some tourist groups and individual tourists around the area. The Grand Palace was as stunning as ever. I also love that some of the fairy lights were turned on for a bit of that magical feel.

Phra Thinang Chakri Maha Prasat, the palace's main throne hall.

Full building. It's a mix of Thai and European styles. Very much the style of King Rama V (King Chulalongkorn.)

With the Dusit building, also a throne hall. Got to have a bit of fairy lights before they turned them off haha.

With the main throne hall again.

- Next door is another Bangkok must-see: Wat Pho. Established in the 1500s, and rebuilt in the 1800s. It is known for its giant reclining Buddha, and its mosaic stupas that hold the ashes of some members of Thailand's royal family.

Will never get tired of seeing this.

It's my first time to see the Reclining Buddha being cleaned (and by a monk.)

Thank you kind tourist for my really nice photo.

108 Buddhist symbols on the Buddha's feet.

Royal ashes are enshrined in these colorful chedis.

The colors are mesmerizing. They make me forget that this area is kind of like a cemetery though they don't call it this way.

So much detial!

- Just across Wat Pho is the Tha Tian Pier where people ride the boat going to Wat Arun across the river. The trip takes around a minute since it literally just goes across. Wat Arun, or "The Temple of Dawn" is one of the most colorful temples in Thailand. Built originally in the 1600s, with its current incarnation built in the 1800s, it is densely decorated with colored ceramics. I have never seen it during dawn or dusk, but photos online show that it does appear to glow during sunrise or sunset. The temple also held the Emerald Buddha before it was transferred to Wat Phra Kaew at the Golden Palace.

When I last went to Bangkok in 2016, the temple was being renovated. I'm so glad I get to see it in its full glory now! This was the view from Tha Tian Pier by the way.

So much color.

So many people!

I looks nice any time of the day.

So glad I got to have this shot - there temple was actually loaded with people!

- I also noticed that there were many photographers in the temple grounds, and because I wasn't prepared, I wasn't sure if it was a scam or if they were legit. They were charging around 1500 Baht too, which is a bit expensive. Since I wanted nice photos with Wat Arun because there were just too many people and because I was already wearing my really nice royal costume, I just took the risk. Thankfully it was legit, and I had more than a hundred professionally-taken photos. They turned out way better than expected too! The photographer directly transferred the photos from her SLR camera to my phone. Easy peasy!  

Some of the wonderful shots I got!

I mean. It would be difficult to get shots like these by myself - given that there were so many people.

See the temple's details?

<3 <3 <3 <3

I love this shot a lot.

With the Thai flag  and the Chao Phraya River (I wish the photographer got a better shot of the flag. All the shots of the flag didn't turn out well because of the wind.)

I love this shot as well. I have the spires of Wat Arun plus the statue of King Rama II behind me.

- From the exit of Wat Arun - I didn't take the ferry back to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho - I rode a cab to Kudeejeen (area is close to Itsaraphap MRT Station but is a bit of a walk. It is also walkable from Wat Pho but it is a rather long walk too). As mentioned earlier, Kudeejeen is a neighborhood that has many Portuguese influences. The Portuguese found their way to Ayutthaya in 1511 after occupying Malacca in Malaysia. When Ayutthaya was sacked by the Burmese, the Portuguese followed the Thai court to Thonburi, the then-new capital. Apart from the Portuguese, some Thai-Chinese also stayed in the area, which makes Kudeejeen (sometimes spelled Kudichin) a multicultural Eurasian neighborhood!

- Kudeejeen also has a river walkway with a nice view of the Chao Phraya River, and has access to some cafes and restaurants. I had a nice lunch in Caf Kudeejeen (no photos, and yes it really is spelled that way), and had a lovely view of the river while I was at it. Thankfully it didn't rain because I was seated outdoors. There was a nice breeze and the restaurant had a powerful fan too! (Thank goodness!)

Wat Prayurawongsawat Worawihan (or "Wat Prayun") was built in the 1800s during King Rama III's reign. It is a royal temple and one of the best preserved.

I wasn't able to go around the temple that much due to the on-and-off rains, and because I had much to cover in Kudeejeen. I should have, and I will go around again in case I visit next time.

Santa Cruz Church. Built in the 1700s, it is one of the earliest Catholic churches of Bangkok. Is it usually open only during masses, so I wasn't able to see the church interior.

Baan Windor (Windsor House). A gingerbread house from the 1850s owned by a British merchant named Louis Windsor. It is still intact, but with obvious decay. There have been lots of talks about how to renovate/preserve it, but no action has been done due to land ownership issues. 

Kuan An Keng Shrine (Guan Yin Shrine). Built in the 1700s, it is one of the earliest Chinese shrines (Hokkien architecture specifically) in Thonburi.

Road leading to Baan Kudichin Museum.

The community museum, free of charge, shows the history and culture of Kudeejeen.

The upper floors of the house show how people back in the 1800s lived.

Jantanaphap House. Built in the 1800s from teak, it remains used so couldn't see inside.

Khanom Farang Kudichin. You'll see these cakes everywhere! The recipe is a mix of Portuguese and Chinese cakes, and only found in Thailand! Personally it tasted like toasted mamon. It's a nice light snack.

- I later rode a Grab from Kudeejeen to Phahurat to get a few more things before having dinner at Platinum. I really loved the seafood stall outside the mall.

I had these giant prawns for dinner.

- My Sunday was packed with so much Thai history and I didn't want it any other way. It's a miracle I still had energy to work inside my room after my day out. I feel that if it didn't rain every so often, I would have explored a bit more. I guess I should go back to Bangkok in the future then!  

- Check out my other adventures for this Thailand trip!

Part 1 (Phahurat and Mahidol University): here

Part 2 (Nakhon Pathom): here

Part 4 (Chinatown, Wat Saket, Giant Swing): here

Part 5 (Ancient City, Erawan Museum, Terminal 21): here