Monday, April 13, 2026

Egypt, Ever a Wonder! (Part 3): The Pyramid Post You're Looking For

- March 30, 2026, Monday.

- The Pyramids of Giza need no introduction. They're big, they're old, they're historical - and they alone serve as the face of Egyptian tourism and Egyptian civilization. While Egypt is definitely more than the pyramids in reality, a visit to Egypt for the first time will never be complete without a trip to Giza's pyramids! After all, they pyramids are the only remaining "Wonder of the Ancient World"!

- The Giza necropolis, where the pyramids are located, can be overwhelming to visit by oneself, even with the shuttlebus system within the archeological park that helps people go around the vast necropolis. It was more practical for us to book a tour with Klook, with an Egyptologist as a guide. 

- We arrived at Giza early in the morning; most people think that the pyramids stand lonely in the middle of the desert, but in reality they're so close to the city, roughly a short 30-minute drive from Cairo. (As can be seen in my first post of my Egypt trip series, hotels line the streets right outside the necropolis, so the whole area isn't too detached from modern civilization.) Our first agenda upon arriving was a camel ride across the desert. There are many camel guides across the necropolis, but with a recommendation from our tour guide, prices are significantly lower or "more reasonable" compared to hiring one by yourself (they tend to over-change greatly). It was my second time to ride a camel, and even with my previous experience it did not make riding one more comfortable. I keep forgetting how big camels are, and how I need to balance whenever it tries to get up or sit down because of it's long legs. But yes, it is a highly recommended activity (given that the camels are treated well by the guide), as it is a practical way to see the pyramids away from the tourist crowds.

There are three main pyramids, but there are actually nine (plus other smaller pyramids.)

Though plain in appearance, they were probably coated with shiny rock to let them shine under the sun. And yes, no one can completely explain how they were made. These pyramids are almost 5000 years old.

I love this candid look - and it was right after my camel stood up! A camel's legs are so long so its body rocks as it gets up or sits down.

Finally, a smile.

In the middle of nowhere.

This is how we all envision Egypt.

Did you notice my (modern and DIY) pharaoh look?

- After the camel ride we entered the pyramid of Menkaure, which didn't have much (not recommended, but I guess, only to say that I went inside one of the pyramids.) I figured a lot of the stuff people found inside pyramids are now placed in the museums in Egypt and across the world.  

Pyramids, slightly up close.

Inside Menkaure.

Outside Menkaure. 

- The Great Sphinx of Giza was another curiosity to check out. Until today, scholars cannot agree on who or what it really is. The term sphinx was based on the Greek name and iconography, but unlike the Greek version, Egyptian sphinxes are wingless male creatures. The human heads may also represent pharaohs.

Sphinx.

Nose to nose!

Backside.

- After visiting the pyramids, we had a brief visit to the papyrus center where we were shown how papyrus sheets were made from the papyrus plants, which is a kind of reed. We had lunch at an Egyptian restaurant afterwards, then off we went to Memphis, the first capital of Egypt since upper and lower Egypt were united in 3100BCE, originally called Min-Nefer (Memphis is a Greek name.) It was the capital of Egypt until Luxor (then Thebes) gained prominence in the 2000s BCE. It was finally abandoned in 7th century CE when Alexandria in the north gained prominence due to Roman dominance. Despite this, the open air museum has remnants of the richness of Memphis, including numerous status of Ramesses II, one of the most respected kings in Egyptian history.

Papyrus Center.

What papyrus looks like.

Now at Memphis, with the Colossus of Ramesses II.

A small sphinx.

Another statue of Ramesses II.

Many artefacts at the open air museum.

- Finally, we ended the afternoon by dropping by at Saqqara, a village in Giza where the oldest pyramid stands: the Step Pyramid of Djoser. The pyramid, which shows big steps instead of the finer triangular look of those in Giza. Djoser's pyramid was also built around 100 years before the Giza pyramids (that is, in 2600+ BCE.)

This reminds me more of pyramids in Latin America.

Djoser's funerary complex.

Pillar after pillar.

Yes, I'm happy because I can't believe I'm here!

These aren't the Giza pyramids, but other pyramids. Left: Sneferu's Bent Pyramid. Right: Sneferu's Red Pyramid.

Ruins.

More tombs.

Step pyramid from afar.

- The whole tour we had was so well-paced, I was able to do most of what I wanted to experience in Giza (yes, all these places I mentioned above are within the Giza governorate). Of course, given more time, I would have waned to see more areas of the Giza Necropolis, as well as the Saqqara necropolis. These places were nothing short of spectacular, and I ended the day with more curiosity than when I arrived in Egypt!  

Sunday, April 12, 2026

Egypt, Ever a Wonder! (Part 2): The Glory of Medieval Islamic Cairo

- March 29, 2026, Sunday.

- The whole of Egypt has seen so much history and has preserved as much as it could over the millennia. Cairo, for one, has pockets of communities that seem to immortalize some of these significant eras. Towards the east from the downtown is Historic Cairo, also known as Medieval or Islamic Cairo. This area is also home to one of Cairo's most popular bazaars, the Khan El-Khalili Market.

- My dad and I started the morning by visiting the Saladin Citadel, also known as the Cairo Citadel. It seat he seat of Egyptian government from the 1100s during Saladin's time, until the 1800s. Most of the buildings were built in the 1800s during Muhammad Ali's time, replacing many earlier buildings. Hence, majority of the buildings remind people of Ottoman-Turkish architecture as this period was during Egypt under Ottoman rule.

Muhammad Ali Mosque.

The interior really brought me back to Turkey!! (I hope to visit Turkey again some day. I miss it so much.)

Of course I had the look to match.

Courtyard.

With the flag of Egypt.

Various buildings of the citadel.


A peek at the Mosque of Al-Nasir Muhammad

Citadel gate.

Citadel walls.

- The citadel, on maps, appears to not be far from other places of interest in Islamic Cairo. However, as it is located on top of a hill, it takes a bit more energy to walk from the citadel to anywhere else. An Uber is the best and most convenient way to go to another location.

- Not too far from the citadel are the mosques of Al Hassan and Al Rifa'i (one ticket for two mosques). The Al Rifa'i Mosque, built in 1912, is dedicated to the Al Rifa'i family, who are known preachers that founded the Sufi order, Rifa'i Tariqa. The mosque is also known to be the resting place of the Pahlavi Dynasty (Reza Shah Pahlavi, and Mohammed Reza Pahlavi), rulers of Iran before Islamic rule. The former shah was reburied in Iran, while the latter shah remains in Al Rifa'i Mosque. Unfortunately the section where Mohammed Reza Pahlavi was under renovation when I was there so I wasn't able to see his tomb.

Al Rifa'i Mosque.

Two of the many tombs in the mosque.

Mihrab (niche that points towards Mecca) and Minbar (imam's pulpit) of the mosque.

Beyond this wall/door is the tomb of the Shah of Iran.

Al Rifa'i Mosque exterior.

A fuller view.

- Right beside, the Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan has stood far earlier, since the 1300s. This big complex is a prayer hall, a learning center, and a mausoleum. This mosque bears architectural styles from many cultures across the Muslim world.   

Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan exterior.

Courtyard.

Prayer hall.

Mausoleum (also see the amazing architectural details!!)

Left: Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hasan. Right: Al Rifa'i Mosque. 

- I feel, however, the main artery of Islamic Cairo starts from Bab Al Futuh in the historic quarter's north. Bab Al Futuh is one of the last historic city gates in Islamic Cairo, from 10th century CE. Entering the gate, one would just need to walk along Al Moez Street (Al Mu'izz Street) to see everything else!

Bab Al Futuh.

- Right beside the gate is the 12th-century Al-Hakim Mosque, one of the biggest Fatimid mosques in Cairo. The mosque is also known for its minarets protected by bastions, which is a rather unusual architectural feature.  

Al-Hakim Mosque.

Minaret is under renovation, but you can still clearly see the minaret and the bastion.

Marble fountain.

- There were honestly so many mosques, and smaller museums along Al Moez Street, it would take a day just to see all of them! But for those like me who don't have the luxury of time, one architecturally and historically significant places to visit is the Qalawun Complex. Built in the 13th century during Sultan al-Mansur Qalawun's time, it was built as a mosque, madrasa, mausoleum, and a hospital. Its enormity and the speed that it was built reveal controversies such as employing or attaining land illegally. Despite these, the complex was also, at that time, able to serve the community in both religious and medical reasons.

Al Moez.

So many things to see!! It's a feast for the senses.

Many Egyptians like raising pigeons by the way, so you'll sometimes see small pigeon homes, or big ones like in this photo.

Somewhere in Al Moez.

At Qalawun Complex. This is the mausoleum.

At the madrasa's courtyard.

Mosque.

What's left of the hospital (bimaristan).

- To cap off my tour of Islamic sites, I visited the Al Emam Al Hussein Mosque. The current mosque was built in the 1800s, though the original mosque stood in the 12th century. It is the burial place of Husayn ibn Ali, the grandson of the prophet Muhammad. 

Inside the main prayer hall.

Tomb of Imam Al-Hussein.

Mosque exterior with its giant mechanically-operated canopies.

Another angle, with a clearer view of the minaret.

- After a quick lunch in the area, there was nothing else left to do in the afternoon but to shop at Khan El-Khalili Market! It is generally easy to navigate, but the small alleys lead one to an even deeper market with hundreds of shops. It can get overwhelming, but it does have a good variety of items for sale. As with any market, haggling is a useful skill, especially since prices can be at a premium for tourists.

Markets: a place that I love that my wallet does not.

So many things!!

- Islamic Cairo is perhaps the second usual image that one has of Egypt; the first being images of pyramids and ancient temples. It has alleys full of gold, smoke, carpets, fruits, and well-preserved historical landmarks. It does take a while to take everything in, but surely, immersing oneself in Islamic Cairo is a way to open the senses!!