Vibrant Vietnam (Part 2): Cu Chi Tunnels and Saigon Motorbike Food Tour + Saigon's Newly-Opened Metro!

- December 22, 2024, Sunday.

- I covered pretty much the basics of Saigon in my previous blog, but in and around Saigon lie many adventures that are worth experiencing. As much as I like to DIY all my tours, there are times when booking Klook tours (the good ones at least) just makes things easier especially when covering long distances or obscure places. - And boy did I maximize Klook for this Vietnam trip!

- The first tour I had was for the Cu Chi Tunnels. Located an hour outside Saigon's city proper, this series of tunnels was used during the Vietnam War by the Viet Cong (Vietnamese Communists). I learned that the term "Viet Cong" is regarded as a derogatory term, so they are referred to as VCs instead. I have also been to the Cu Chi Tunnels before, but there was one thing I wanted to prove that I wasn't able to do in the past: that I could fit in those tiny square holes on the ground.

We first had a visit to the handicraft center that employs handicapped people, some were also victims of the Vietnam War.

An explanation of the kind of work they do. (They make lacquerware.)

Learning to fly.

Hello.

Bombs.

A representation of the kind of ventilation system that they had in the tunnels. This is a small chimney for when they cook during the wee hours of the morning when the surrounding mountains are foggy.

Clothes the VC wear during the day (green, at the back), and at night (navy blue, in front). These colors help camouflage them with their surroundings.

- For those who have never been, the whole area is just a tiny part of the big network of tunnels. Some tunnels were enlarged for tourists, especially tall and big-boned people which the tunnels were definitely NOT made for. The Vietnamese were thin and short (more so than they generally are these days).   

We had to watch this short documentary about the war before proceeding to the next part of the tour.

A diorama showing the different kinds of rooms in the tunnels and how the VCs were able to go survive while living in those tunnels.

One of the sample entrances to the tunnel system. This is mainly for tourists, but the size of this wasn't far off from the original ones that may look smaller than this. (Guy in red is our tour guide, Felix.) 

If anyone calls me fat, I won't believe it anymore! Hahahaha. (But yes, I know I'm on the heavy side.)

One of the many kinds of bobby traps set up by the VCs to trap opponents (who were Americans or allies of the Americans.)

Inside a sample tunnel. We were told the size of these tunnels were enlarged for tourists.

One room meant as a hospital.

Will I survive?

Meeting room underground.

- The tour ended with a taste of boiled cassava, with sugar and nuts to add flavor. The sugar and nuts mixture is mainly for the tourists, as the VCs would eat the cassava as is. After this was a short visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels souvenir center before going back to Saigon.

Boiled cassava; I rolled it in the sugar and peanut mixture.

Passed by a lady making VC-style clothing.

Also passed by a man making VC-style sandals. The soles were made in such a way that when you walk, the footprints show the opposite direction as a way to confuse enemies. (In some cases, the VCs would wear one sandal with footprints going one way and the other sandal the other way to further confuse enemies.)

Some landmines.

The tour was kind enough to give each one of us a postcard showing Vietnam's culture! (I got the music one.)

- Back in the city, I had a sumptuous lunch at Ben Thanh Market after all that walking and going inside tunnels during the morning. It is always a delight, though overwhelming, to go through the endless food stalls in Ben Thanh Market. From the market, I walked to the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City. The building was built in the 1800s and used as the residence of various governors and government officials (French, Japanese, and Vietnamese), became the Supreme Court, and turned into a museum in 1978. The museum has rooms that show the history and culture of Saigon. Because of the museum's Eurasian look, it is a popular place for photoshoots. Unfortunately, too many people were having their photoshoots that day it was hard to move around the museum or even take photos myself. (I ended up NOT taking any photos inside the building as much as I wanted to.)

Seafood for lunch at Ben Thanh Market.

Please don't judge. I was hungry and had barely anything to eat for breakfast.

Museum of Ho Chi Minh City.

Museum interior.

Costumes of the different ethnic groups of Vietnam.

European architecture.

- With some time to spare in the afternoon, I walked towards the Saigon Opera House to try the newly-opened metro system. It was its first day, and so it was crowded by commuters who needed to go somewhere, and passengers (locals and tourists alike) who just wanted to experience riding the train. From the Saigon Opera House, I rode to the Ben Thanh Station (just one stop). The metro is free for a month, and from then on passengers will need to purchase a metro ticket. The long-anticipated Saigon metro was under construction for more than a decade now, and is still in its initial opening phase, with more stations and lines currently being built. The metro system was built in cooperation with Japan, so it does feel a bit like the metro systems of Japan. 

Saigon Opera House.

Saigon Opera House metro station.

Finally, an easier way to go around Saigon!

I don't normally take photos of myself in train/metro stations, but this is a historic moment for Saigon!

Riding for the sake of riding haha.

Train.

At Ben Thanh metro station. For my friends in Manila - this reminded me a lot of the Natural History Museum!

- I spent the rest of the afternoon resting before my night food tour on a motorbike. Nam picked me up from my hotel and it was a wild ride from there (I meant this in a very very good way). The whole tour was a mix of food and culture. As much as I fear eating until I couldn't walk or feeling too bloated, the pace and the amount of food was perfectly calculated. I was told that this kind of tour became more popular during the pandemic, onwards, when Vietnam was trying to boost its local tourism, and to attract foreign tourists to experience new things in Saigon.

First meal for the evening: Bun thit nuong.  A noodle dish with lettuce, meat, spring rolls, herbs, with fish sauce on the side. It's the Saigon version of the Hanoi bun cha. Bun cha is my favorite, so this is obviously a favorite too.

We then visited the Nguyen Thien Thuat apartment building. It was originally built for the American soldiers stationed in Vietnam. Afterwards it was used as the Saigon government's free housing for those in need. Now these homes were passed on to descendants, most of whom still live in these units today. This apartment complex is enormous. However, my only concern is that, since we're really going around the several floors, aren't the residents bothered that their homes (albeit the public areas) are used as tourist sites? (And think of the amount of motorbike tours that operate daily.)

The best way to see Vietnam, on a motorbike!

Nam introducing me to the Vietnamese "pizza". We're sitting on the little chairs that Vietnam is known for. I am always scared because I feel that the chairs will fail on me because of my weight. I asked Nam why the Vietnamese often use little chairs and tables. He told me it was just a matter of practicality: easy to store, easy to take away (in case the food stall is illegally operating in an area), and easy to fit more people in a small area (like a corner or sidewalk).

There is a food street that is located beside (?) or within the area of the Ho Thi Ky flower market. It reminds me of Manila's Dangwa (a market where they sell flowers 24/7).

Trying Vietnamese savory pancakes, topped with various ingredients like shellfish, meat, shrimp, wrapped with herbs in a big lettuce leaf.

So apparently, horseshoe crabs are streetfood in Vietnam.

Steamed oysters.

I bought this dessert because I wanted to try water coconut! A water coconut is a spiky fruit from the nipa palm plant that grows in rivers (also known as "mangrove palm"). As someone who likes coconuts, I had wanted to try this and I'm glad I saw this special treat! Apart from the white meat of the water coconut (you can see this very clearly in the photo), it has seaweeds and jelly as well.

Making banh mi!

That evening we also visited the memorial of Thich Quang Duc. He was a Buddhist monk who died by self-immolation in 1963 as a protest to the persecution of Buddhist monks by the hardcore Catholic President Diem. President Diem was the president of South Vietnam, back when Vietnam was still divided into two. This monument is located at the corner of the intersection where he burned himself.

- The tour ended at 10PM, and boy was Saigon freezing at night! Definitely something I didn't expect since the Philippines didn't seem to be as cold (Saigon is at the same latitude as the Philippines). I'm happy I decided to join this kind of tour, which I felt was inherently Vietnamese (sightseeing on a motorbike, little chairs and tables, going through markets, the history of the non-food sites, and of course the kinds of dishes I got to try). Vietnam, as a fellow Southeast Asian country, felt familiar, yet different, and that's what I like about knowing more about this country! While I often like going around by myself, there are times when it's also nice to learn and hear stories from legit tour guides!

Vibrant Vietnam (Part 1): Icons of Saigon

- December 20-21, 2024, Friday to Saturday.

- Ah Vietnam! One of the Philippines' neighbors that I had longed to re-visit especially after its recent tourism boom due to the now-available direct flights to central Vietnam (via Danang) from Manila. Known for its cheap-but-good food and shopping, rich cultural heritage (a blend of native, Chinese, and French cultures), and for those interested - its breathtaking natural wonders, what is not to like about Vietnam?

- Since this Christmas break the first one in a while when I could honestly breathe and rest a little, I decided to go ahead of my family by a couple of days and went back to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), also known by its former name, Saigon. The last time (and my first time) in HCMC was in 2012. I was there for a few days, and because my family was part of a tour, we didn't get to explore the city too much. That's why I wanted to experience the city by myself.

- After I arrived Friday evening, I went to my hotel (Adventure Hotel), which has an amazing location as it is beside the Ben Thanh Market. It's located inside an alley, but a well-lit residential one (with a few stores and another hotel too), so no worries. I didn't get to do much after checking in, apart from buying some necessities at the nearby 7-Eleven, so I called it a day and rested for my fully-packed adventure the next day.

The Heat is on in.... (if you get this reference we can be friends. If you sing along with me we can be super friends.)

Saigon's Tan Son Nhat International Airport reminds me so much of Manila's own NAIA.

My room. I love how cozy it is!

- Armed with excitement and a luggage full of aodais (the Vietnamese traditional clothing), I woke up really early and took photos with the city hall, completed in 1908. It's not often open to visitors as it is a government building. It does have a square in front with the statue of Ho Chi Minh, who was the first president of North Vietnam (when Vietnam was separated into two during the Vietnam War). Saigon was renamed to "Ho Chi Minh City" after the war ended in 1979 to honor Ho Chi Minh, who is seen as the father of the nation.

In front of the City Hall with my white and blue aodai.

Look at its (obviously) French influence.

Closer this time.

- In front of the city hall the long Nguyen Hue Pedestrian Plaza. It acts as a park of sorts, where people can stroll or do recreational activities. Apart from the City Hall, one of the most well-known buildings along the plaza is the Cafe Apartments. The Cafe Apartments, as the name says, used to be a residential building built in the 1960s, but now the all units have been converted to cafes and restaurants. For this day, I just took a photo in front of it (more about the Cafe Apartments in a future blog).

Cafe Apartments.

It looks nice at night too, but I didn't go to the plaza at night.

Interesting sight at the plaza: Left: uncles and aunties doing zumba, right: the youth doing some dance for Tiktok. 

- From the Cafe Apartments, I walked north, passing by 22 Ly Tu Truong Street (formerly known as the Pittman Apartments), was the residence and CIA office of US government officials during the Vietnam War. There was a famous photo taken by photographer Hubert van Es showing American officials lining up to board a helicopter at the roof to evacuate Saigon. (The building in the photo has often been mislabeled as the US Embassy, which it never was.)

Passed by the Pittman Apartments. This big label at the roofdeck makes it easier to identify. I wasn't able to check if the rooftop cafe was open, I could've had breakfast there.

- A couple of blocks further north are two of the buildings that Saigon is most known for: the Saigon Central Post Office, and the Notre Dame Cathedral. Both buildings, located right in front of each other, were built in the late 1800s with European influences. The cathedral is currently under restoration works, and will be having its much needed facelift for a couple of years. Fortunately, the post office is is still open so at least I was able to go around it. Apart from a functioning post office, it also has a number of souvenir stores inside. There were also cafes around the post office (where I had breakfast).

Outside the post office with another aodai.

There were many Santas that day I don't know why. (But yes I do realize that it was Christmas season, though not sure if they had an event or something.)

Inside the post office.

The side transept of the Notre Dame Cathedral, since the cathedral's facade was covered.

See I told you.

- Though unintentional, I found out that the Nguyen Van Binh Book Street was located right beside the post office. Named as such since 2000, this small street is lined with bookstores and cafes. Though mostly Vietnamese books, there are also many English books available. The stores may also sell some unique souvenirs as well.

I love how these quaint bookstores look.

I actually did end up buying a book!

I bought the Ayurveda book. Almost bought the Hanuman cardboard book but didn't as it was pretty much a book for toddlers.

- Capping my eventual morning was a visit to the Independence Palace. Built in the 1960s as the residence, office, and function halls for the president of South Vietnam. After the North Vietnamese forces destroyed its gates in 1975 that ended the Vietnam War, the building gradually ceased being used as a government building and now functions as a museum. It shows various rooms such as function halls, living quarters, entertainment rooms, and my personal favorite - the underground bunkers (which I didn't get to photograph due to the crowds.)

At the Independence Palace.

Banquet Chamber.

Conference Hall.

President's Office.

Thank you random tourists for taking amazing photos of me.

This was from their other camera. Hoping there are more tourists like them: very nice, and can take amazing photos. HAHA.

Car used by the president.

- I went back to my hotel after going around the Independence Palace, freshened up, changed, and had a less-than-desirable banh mi for lunch. Afterwards, I headed to the War Remnants Museum to understand the effects of the Vietnam War more. The museum, opened right after the war in 1975, presents how war affects not just the political level, but also the civilian level. This museum was probably the one that really made me lose all motivation to sing all the Miss Saigon songs in Saigon (which, if you don't know much about it, shows a romanticized and western-leaning view of the Vietnam War - as catchy as the songs might be.) I actually have been to this museum in 2012 when I first visited Saigon, but I guess visiting it again was a good reminder of how things were like during the war.

Forgot to mention that I had a quick stopover at the Mariamman Temple near my hotel before lunch. It was built in the late 1800s, making it one of the oldest modern Hindu temples in Vietnam.

How the temple looks inside. As the name suggests, the temple's main goddess is called Sri Mariamman.

A few blocks later is the War Remnants Museum, just a block north of the Independence Palace.

The front yard has a grand display of old planes and tanks.

Bombs.

Prison.

Guillotine.

Inside the museum.

- Related to the war, I decided to visit Ca Phe Do Phu, in District 3. I realized upon that I visited the wrong branch of Ca Phe Do Phu: I visited Ca Phe Do Phu - Dai Han (District 3, but to the north of District 1, along Dang Dung Street) instead of Ca Phe Do Phu - Bao Tang Biet Dong Sai Gon (District 3, to the west of District 1, along Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street). However, Ca Phe Do Phu - Dai Han was a good "accidental" discovery. Built in the 1940s, this house eventually became a base of Saigon's secret forces during the Vietnam War in the 1960s. Today, the house/cafe seems to preserve its old-time look. However, it felt very eerie as I was the cafe's only customer when I was there.

The "wrong" Ca Phe Do Phu.

I had coffee and some biscuits as a snack. I didn't want to leave the cafe immediately. I'm glad I stayed.

Brings me back to the Vietnam War.

This "cute" house was a hideout!

Ground level.

- The cafe staff told me that I should find time to visit the other Ca Phe Do Phu, which offers a more immersive experience on how secret forces operated before. (I had to take a Grab bike because there is some distance between the two cafes.) Now this confused me because beside Ca Phe Do Phu is an actual historical house with a secret underground bunker. This one is free of charge. However, to go to the Ca Phe Do Phu bunker, one must pay a small entrance fee. I tried both anyway, because why not?  

Here is the secret weapon bunker beside Ca Phe Do Phu. Can fit in the hole on the floor omg.

That's the caretaker of the bunker.

So many weapons!

A diorama of the house + all the secret rooms.

Weapon stash that can be folded and used (disguised) as a table.

Left: Ca Phe Do Phu house. Right: secret weapon bunker.

Here are the Ca Phe Do Phu bunker.

From the basement level I had to climb this ladder to....

....the second floor sink! Yes I had to crawl out of that omg.

Looks like an ordinary house.

A cabinet that has a narrow passageway to the second floor.

- After a day of so much history, I asked another Grab bike to drop me off at the Ben Thanh Market for some shopping. The market was built in the 1800s, though the area as a marketplace has its roots in the 1600s. If shopping for souvenirs and clothing (especially traditional clothing), I highly encourage going to the outer ring where the government-run stores are (you'll notice that the area looks cleaner, and the staff wear uniforms). These stalls are all fixed price (no haggling!) BUT their prices are way lower than the main market area. However, the main market will definitely have more options. The market also has a dining area, just make sure to eat there during the earlier timers of the day as some of them close or will have limited food available around 6pm. (I found out the hard way, so I ended up having dinner in a restaurant outside the market).

Ben Thanh Market.

This is the main market area. See how crowded it is!

- I never thought my first full day in Vietnam would be a jampacked one since I thought I wanted to ease myself in the city. However, I'm glad I was able to see and do a lot at this point so I could have more time to take it easy or explore other areas of Saigon not originally in my plan - who knows? For sure, this was an amazing start to spending the holidays in Vietnam!