From Mindanao to Manila: Yuchengco Museum's Exhibit on Mindanao Textiles and Jewelry

- Sept. 22, 2017, Friday.

- The Yuchengco Museum (as of Sept. 29 while writing this article) is holding two on-going temporary exhibits on Mindanao culture, entitled "Origins and Translations: Mindanao Tapestry" and "Silken Courts: The Maranao Malong - Garments of Identity and Continuity." These two exhibits are located at the third floor gallery. I have to thank my department secretary in the university where I work for telling me about this, since she knows that not only do I appreciate cultures in general -especially those involving costumes and jewelry - but I also have my own stash of Mindanao fabric and jewelry in my vast collection of cultural/ethnic wear and jewelry. Of course I screamed at the top of my lungs in my department in excitement after our department secretary told me about this. Needless to say, I just had to visit this exhibit before it ends. (I phoned the Yuchengco Museum and told me that they don't have an end date yet to this excellent temporary exhibit.)

Hello Yuchengco Museum.

- The Yuchengco Museum, by the way, is located in RCBC Plaza, at the corner of Gil Puyat Avenue and Ayala Avenue. The museum is owned by Ambassador Alfonso Yuchengco, a prominent Filipino-Chinese figure (he's a philantropist, and ambassador, a businessman, art enthusiast, to name a few things he does.) He passed away earlier this year. His family owns RCBC (Rizal Commercial Banking Corporation,) so it's no surprise that the museum is located inside the RCBC Plaza. This young museum was opened just in 2005.

You'll see this on the way to the museum.

 - Recently, Philippine news has been bombarded with not-so-happy news about certain places in Mindanao (ex. Marawi in Lanao del Sur, Maguindanao, etc..) I think this relevant back-to-back exhibit gives a subtle nod to those places by celebrating their indigenous cultures and allows people to see these places as rich cradles of Mindanao's colorful indigenous cultures. Some cultures featured include the T'bolis of Cotabato, the Maranaos of Lanao del Sur, the B'laan of Cotabato and Davao, just to name a few.     

- The Maranao malong gallery not only had malongs on display, but what I loved the most about it was the mannequins showcasing the different ways the the malong can be used through a diorama akin to the singkil dance. Of course, knowing me, I brought a few pieces from my collection and wore them so I can get the feel of being one with the exhibit. Ms. Elma, the museum's program officer, saw me walking around with my Maranao inspired getup and told me that I seemed to belong to the exhibit. (I couldn't agree more, and that was the goal.)

A "buraq" on a Maranao ritual blanket. This creature from Islamic mythology was supposed to carry prophets from one place to another.

A male and female Maranao formal costume.

Ready to dance the singkil??

One of them. My yellow/golden shirt was made by my Muslim tailor. It was supposed to resemble a Maranao groom's shirt.

The whole squad; this tableau shows the different ways that a malong can be worn.

This bridge thing at the third floor is the best place to have a photoshoot in the Yuchengco Museum.

Hello, it me.

- Apart from the tableau, there were also spexial malongs exhibited, such as those used by the Maranao royalty, or those with epics embroidered on them. If only I had the chance, I would've wanted to take all of them home!!

This was my favorite: a malong with the epic Darangen embroidered on it.

- In the adjacent gallery on Mindanao tapestry, I had to opportunity to examine the techniques of weaving and jewelry-making from the other groups in Mindanao. It was also an opportunity for me to understand more the things I have in my closet, since it's difficult to find in-depth information on Philippine indigenous clothing and design. Though I knew the basics of all the cultural things that I buy, I always love the opportunity to learn more.

Poster and a female Mandaya costume.

The T'boli's famed t'nalak fabric; it is said that the designs are dreamt by the weavers, and hence the weavers are called "dream weavers."

Brought my own lmimot, which is a kind of T'boli necklace, and the guard at the museum was more excited than me when he saw that the one I brought was a smaller version of the one they have in the exhibit.

Costume change into my Mansaka-inspired costume. The mannequin at the back has a Lumad costume.

With a female Manobo costume.

- After going around the exhibit, I spent some time doing my photoshoot inspired by the exhibit. I changed into my Mansaka- and Tausug-inspired costumes. (I even brought my janggay - silver nail - set for my pangalay photo.)

Mansaka-inspired. The coat was designed by well-respected Davao designer and former member of the Bayanihan Dance Troupe, Alfonso Guino-o.

My Tausug inspired costume. My bandana is an authentic Tausug scarf. My silver-nails used to dance the pangalay dance were shipped from Zamboanga; I bought my nails from a professional pangalay dancer.

I bought my Tausug scarf from the Tausug weavers that the national museum invited to demonstrate their weaving culture (click here to see my interaction with the Tausug people.) The nails on my fingers may be used by both female and male pangalay dancers.

- After going around the exhibit for one last time, I went to see the other permanent exhibits and dropped by the souvenir shop at the lobby. They were also selling ethnic jewelry and fabric aside from the usual books and paraphernalia in the museum's gift shop.

The permanent exhibit area at the ground floor.

Amorsolo's "Urduja" painting.

- I finally left the museum after a whole day of absorbing myself in the stunning exhibit; to think I expected to stay for only around 2 hours. I think there should me more exhibits like this one to let people know that Mindanao is not just a place with "many dangers" (as how Mindanao is usually framed or shown in media), but Mindanao is also a region in the Philippines with a variety of flamboyant, rainbow-touched, and regal cultures that have their roots in the Philippines' glorious pre-colonial past.   

A "Flash Tour" of Escolta: In Honor of the Soon-to-be-Demolished Capitol Theater

- September 15, 2017, Friday.

- As a Manileno from the downtown area, Manila's historical areas are within my reach. Chances are, I've probably even visited them quite a few (or a lot) of times in my life. However, going around ever-changing Manila never ceases to bore me. Something's always happening, something's always changing. More importantly, there are some things that go away forever. One of these things is Manila's Capitol Theater.

- My mom told me two weeks ago about the news that the government gave a go signal to demolish Escolta's Capitol Theater. It didn't take long before my architect friends started telling me or posting their grievances online. Though the theater has been closed for a few decades now as people gradually favored cinemas inside malls, the Capitol Theater remains to be one of structures in Manila that was a witness to the city's history in the last century. (More on the theater later.)

- As a way to "mourn" over the building's fate, I decided to revisit Escolta once more. After all, I also realized that I had not visited Escolta in the last 4 to 5 years, so I thought it would be a good excuse to revisit this once-flamboyant-now-quiet part of downtown Manila.

- As what can be read in the countless articles and blogs written about Escolta, one would know that Escolta Street is one of the earliest streets in Manila - it existed since the Spanish colonial era in the 1500s - which eventually became the business hub of Manila.The word "Escolta" came from Spanish word "escoltar" or "to escort;" this refers to the Spanish-colonial-era practice of having escorts that would accompany the "gobernador-general" (governor-general) from Intramuros when he would pass through that street. Escolta is located in the district of Binondo, and so it is not a surprise why this street is so close to Manila's Chinatown - the oldest Chinatown in the world. The origins of the street's fame has its roots in the Galleon Trade; Escolta is located along the banks of the Pasig River, which is a subsidiary of the Manila Bay, and so foreign goods easily found their way in the stores that lined Escolta back then.

Streets of Escolta.

- Escolta eventually lost its glamor after the business hubs were relocated all over Metro Manila (hello Makati and Pasig, and you too, Bonifacio Global City.) Thankfully, there are different organizations that push for Escolta's renaissance. True enough, there were new, awesome, and artsy things in Escolta for its visitors.

- One thing I like about Escolta that it's just a straight line (since it is a street,) and so it is hard to get lost. Since I had little time (thanks to the earlier sunset of the -ber months) to go around after doing errand in Divisoria's fabric market in Ilaya that early afternoon, the fact that the street is one straight line made it easy for me to do my quick stroll along Escolta.

- My route was from west to east (from Binondo side to the entrance of Santa Cruz.) My first stop was the El Hogar Building at the end of Juan Luna Street and along the Pasig River; it is a common backdrop of many commercials in the Philippines. It is an American-Era building built in 1914 in the beaux-arts style (i.e. a combination of many traditional/classical styles, among other characteristics.) It was a wedding gift to Margarita Zobel de Ayala, and was used as an office building.

El Hogar.

Had to choose a shirt that looked "retro." (It is made from vintage Indonesian batik that my grandmother never got to use when she was still alive. No, we're not Indonesian, just the fabric. Hahahaha.)

- After walking from Juan Luna to Escolta (passing by the two giant Chinatown arches,) I found a nice spot to see the Manila Central Post Office across the river. It was close to the Commercial Bank and Trust Company Building (built 1965,) which, I have calling the "UFO Buidling" for obvious reasons.

Manila Central Post Office, built in 1926 in the neoclassical style.

I'm quite happy that the river's garbage doesn't show much (though the river still needs a lot more cleaning despite improvements to its cleanliness throughout the decades.)

UFO!!

HELLOWWWWW.

- A short walk from the "UFO Building" is the Capitol Theater. It was built in the 1930s in the art deco style (i.e. what I'd describe as a playful combination of modern, exotic, and geometric.) It was designed by national artist Juan Nakpil, the son of Julio Nakpil and Gregoria de Jesus, the widow of Andres Bonifacio. (This family is connected to the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista in Quiapo; click here to see the interior of Bahay Nakpil-Bautista.) My mom would tell me over and over again how she would watch movies here when she was a lot younger, especially when it would show Chinese movies. It was convenient for her and her family since they lived in Chinatown back then.

So long.

It is said that this theater was supposed to look like a Mesopotamian ziggurat (sort of like Mesopotamia's version of the pyramid.)

A Filipina in traditional clothes.

Other side of the facade.

- Despite the news of its demolition, my mom told me that I am not supposed to mourn much, since the new building that will rise in the place of Capitol Theater was ordered to retain the building's facade - perfectly. (This popular method of preserving and repurposing old buildings is, not surprisingly, called "facadism.") Of course, time will only tell how perfectly the facade will be retained.

- I had a brief ice cream stop to cool off at the Big Scoop ice cream parlor since I had been walking almost nonstop since I left my house after lunch (it was almost early evening when I had ice cream.) Walking further down the street, I passed by good ol' Calvo Building, which is frequently visited mainly because Uno Seafood Wharf Palace (a Chinese restaurant) is at the building's ground floor. The Calvo Building was built in 1938 in the beaux-arts style, and it used to house banks, law firms, a restaurant, and even the DZBB-AM radio station; this is GMA Network's flagship AM radio station.)

I think this is clear enough? ("Edificio" is Spanish for "building.")

Main hallway.

Calvo Building today.

Details of the building

- Today, apart from offices inside the building, it also houses the humble Calvo Museum. It was past closing time when I arrived, but I was able to visit it before. (I'm placing a photo I took a few years ago, for reference.) The small museum has antique bottle collections, as well as photos and other memorabilia from Manila's glorious past.

Inside the Calvo Museum, taken 2011.

- Finally, at the Sta. Cruz side of Escolta are the famed Regina Building and First United Building. The neoclassical beaux-arts Regina Building, built in 1915,  used to house insurance companies, but now houses freight forwarding companies. (More on the First United Building later.)

Escolta at sunset (left: Regina Building, right: First United Building.)

- Across the small bridge and right around the corner near the two buildings, one can find the Roman R. Santos Building, a surviving pre-World War II neoclassical building (built in 1894), mainly known for housing a branch of the Bank of the Philippine Islands at the ground floor. The Roman R. Santos Building is the face of Plaza Lacson, the plaza close to the LRT 1-Carriedo Station. The plaza was the heart of downtown Manila, and were the central terminal of the now-defunct tram system of Manila in the early 1900s was found.

At the back side of the Roman R. Santos Building.

Such a beauty.

- On the way back, I chanced upon the newly-opened art hub of the First United Building. This art deco building was built by Andres Luna de San Pedro, the son of Juan Luna, in 1928. It used to house various offices (and still does,) as well as a department store called Berg's Department Store. Now, the space that once was this department store is where the Saturday Market is held (I should visit this Saturday market soon, I heard it has a lot of artsy stuff and antiques!!) Also, there is a new art/bazaar space called "Hub: Make Lab" as well as a coffee shop inside it called "The Den." Had I known that there was a museum at the second floor of the building, I would have gone to check it out too. (In hindsight, it would have been closed by the time I arrived.)

At the building's ground floor.

A cultural hipster's paradise.

Lost in a jungle of art.

Some of the oldest elevators in Manila.

Stairs inside First United.

- I am sure that I did not cover all the buildings in Escolta, and if I had more time (maybe the whole day!!) I would have checked out more stuff in Escolta. However, I must say that going back to Escolta for a cultural stroll after many years (rather than just seeing the street from our car's window when passing by it) brought back a lot of memories. Of course, not memories of Escolta in its heyday (though that would be interesting,) but rather memories of when I was just starting to rediscover Manila during my college days, or visiting Escolta with friends who are also interested in history and culture. As for my mom and the other "oldies" of Manila who have experienced the glitz of Escolta, seeing Escolta brings back memories of going around the street such as shopping in the numerous stores (my mom always tells me about buying shoes in Sybel's) or watching films in Capitol Theater during the holidays or special occasions. Although Escolta today is far from what it was back then, and with buildings of historical and cultural value like Capitol Theater are being demolished one by one, in the end, what we will be left with are memories that people strive to keep alive, as well as tangible things that continue to stand the test of time.

The "Castle" of Manila: Revisiting the Ocampo Pagoda Mansion

- Sept. 6, 2017, Wednesday.

- Manila is a chaotic city, but it's my kind of chaos. It's not the perfect city, and God knows what's happening - not only in Manila - but the whole country these days, but Manila's "charm" is its treasures that stand right in front of you but are easily ignored due to people being preoccupied with the city's chaos. One such treasure in plain sight is the Ocampo Pagoda Mansion in Quiapo, Manila.

Look at this orientalist beauty.

- I have visited this Manilan quirk quite a few times, with my last visit being in 2012. I decided to visit it again because I just wanted to see how it was doing and if I'd be lucky enough to see more treasures related to this pagoda/mansion. This mansion, by the way, is my favorite architectural wonder in Manila, despite how it looks like today. It is located along Bilibid Viejo Street just outside San Sebastian Church. I walked there from Hidalgo street since I passed by Muslim Town.

The remnants of the pagoda. Decided to wear something Chinese instead of Japanese since wearing something Japanese catches more attention than my Chinese polo. At least, somehow, it fits the theme?

- The Ocampo Pagoda was the house of Don Jose Mariano Ocampo, a lawyer and realtor who lived in the early 1900s. After being a Spanish cemetery, Don Jose built his one-hectare mansion from 1936 to 1941, and was built to resemble both eastern and western castles. The dominant influence, however, is Japanese architecture. Sources say that this was done as an admiration for Japan as one of the earliest Asian countries to be able to catch up with western trends; Japan began learning much from Europe and being open to numerous European influences since the Meiji Era of the mid-1800s. During the Second World War, it served as a bomb shelter of the people of that area because of the study materials used to build the mansion. However, the top part of the tower and other parts of the mansion were destroyed not from the war, but from a great earthquake in 1962.

I got this photo from Google. This is a colorized photo of the mansion taken by James Kirkpatrick in 1945. This photo is currently under the car of the National Air and Space Museum of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C..

- Today, the land of the mansion was passed on the Don Jose's descendants. Some of these areas are the alleys and streets surrounding the actual pagoda; stores and dormitories , or people's houses are built along these streets and alleys. The pagoda itself has been used for quite some time as a dormitory for seamen, and so no one is allowed to enter the pagoda. Outside the pagoda is a basketball court for the people that live near/around the pagoda.

- The pagoda and the symbolisms found in the actual mansion aren't the only things that catch the attention of those who have heard and want to visit this pagoda. Going around the pagoda (from Bilibid Viejo Street, just keep walking and after crossing the bridge, turn left at Gonzalo Puyat Street,) one can find some slightly-sketchy-but-totally-safe (I promise) house-lined alleys. The walls of some of these alleys have life-sized religious statues welcoming curious eyes; these statues from the pagoda were commissioned by Don Jose since he was religious. I also saw the frequently-photographed shachihoko or shachi, which might imply that that area used to be an entrance or a gate to one of the areas of the mansion. The shachihoko or shachi, by the way, is a Japanese mythological creature that has the head of a tiger and the body of a fish. These were usually placed on roofs to protect the structure, but once in a while these can be seen on gates or as stand-alone statues.

Religious statues. These were around 4-5 feet tall.

I supposed these are the Ten Commandments?

Shachihoko "caught" in a plastic rope.

Not sure who/what this is.

- Numerous blogs, photos, and even feature articles will show other statues that scatter the area. The statues that I photographed are the same ones I saw before, but I wish to find more statues like the ones I saw in the other blogs and articles. The most important statue however, the 30-foot statue of the Lady of Mt. Carmel, which used to be seen between a 2-foot wide alley (hence the nickname, "Babae sa Eskinita" or "Lady of the Alley,") also known as "Mundo" (as she stands on a giant globe,") has been transferred to New Manila in Quezon City in 2016, behind the Mt. Carmel Shrine along Broadway Avenue (now known as Dona Juana Rodriguez Avenue.) Too bad I did not know this sooner, since I visited the Mt. Carmel Shrine just a few weeks ago. The statue of the Lady of Mount Carmel is said to be miraculous and grants people's wishes.

- With a mild sunburn and a sweat-lined face I battled the crowd of Quiapo on the way home. I never liked the feeling of being sweaty and dirty after a whole afternoon of being out, but it's always worth it when visiting Quiapo. Quiapo is a like a giant antique store - it looks scary and sketchy, but you're always bound to find something that will fancy you. And to the Ocampo Pagoda, I'll see you again and I'll find more time to explore your treasures that you have scattered around the alleys and streets around you. Until today, I am still hoping that they turned you into a museum of some sort, or at the very least, restored/preserved you better.