I "Kansai" I'm In Love (Part 5): Osaka's Hidden Alleys and Amazing Food!

- Nov. 22, 2023, Wednesday.

- Osaka is a chill city, though highly urbanized, with so many different pockets of experience for people to enjoy. Although I experienced the city's highlights the day prior, I wanted to get a better feel of Osaka.

- That morning, I had a quick visit to the Glico Man sign, as I wanted to take a photo of it during daytime. It feel unusual to not see people flocking to the sign. Thankfully, my hostel was just across the street from the sign, so it was convenient for me to take some snaps before having breakfast and getting things going.

Run run run run.

Dotonbori morning.

It will never look this peaceful during normal times of the day.

- My main agenda for the morning was to visit Shitenno-ji (Tennoji metro station). This Buddhist temple was built in the 6th century AD during Prince Shotoku's reign. Despite being one of the oldest temples in Japan, most of the currently-standing buildings were rebuilt in the 1960s. Still, it appears to keep its original design without looking too modern. Most of the interior parts of the temple do not allow photography, so I was only able to take photos of the building's facades. 

Shitenno-ji gate.

It reminds me a bit of Korea, and unsurprisingly it's because the first carpenters who built this temple were from Korea.

I'm glad I went a bit early, at least I avoided the crowd.

Lanterns.

Behind these doors is the exhibit hall, but photography isn't allowed. It had Buddhist artifacts, such as those from the Silk Road trade.

One of the shrines in the temple.

Another shrine.

- I spent a good while going around the flea market on the temple grounds. Apparently, the temple has a flea market on the 21st and 22nd of every month, which I didn't know about prior. Good thing I was there at the right time, because I was able to buy a couple of things that I needed for my kimono. The stalls range from food, furniture, second-hand goods, handicrafts, kimonos and kimono accessories (mostly second-hand), toys, bags, you name it. I heard that the 21st often has more stalls, but I thought there were already a lot when I went (as you can see on the date above, I went on the 22nd.)

- From the temple, I had a brief walk to Shinsekai (closer to Dobutsu-en Mae Station, but walkable if coming from Tennoji), which looks a bit different but just as quirky, during the day. As I mentioned in the previous blog, the neighborhood was designed in 1912 as a reimagination of Western inspirations, such as New York and Paris. The execution, however, made it look even more Japanese, because of the playful nature of the stores and restaurants around the area. Before leaving the Shinsekai area, I had a brief stop at the Mega Don Quijote store near the Dobutsu-en Mae Station.

Tsutenkaku in the morning.

Mural underneath the Tsutenkaku.

As real as it gets - it still looks like it's from a manga or anime.

There is a small alley in Shinsekai called Janjan Yokocho. It mostly had restaurants. It also has a distinct retro vibe.

- Dotonbori seemed like a good option for lunch, since there are endless options to choose from. I thought of going to another sushi restaurant, but this time it's a conveyor-belt sushi restaurant. If you've never been to a conveyor-belt restaurant, you literally just get whatever you like. Each plate will have a price (usually based on color), and the total bill will be based on the plates that you ate.

I ate here: Genrokuzushi Dotombori. Quality sushi for really affordable prices (even by Philippine price standards - and that says a lot.) This is also the FIRST conveyor belt restaurant in the world! Tip: COME DURING LUNCH when lines are a lot shorter (or no lines). In the evening, good luck trying to eat here!

 

I ate so much.

The restaurant was across the river from a big Don Quijote with its own uniquely-shaped ferris wheel! 

I saw this display. I love it, but am also creeped out. But I still love it because giant crab.

The Dotonbori mascot himself (the official puppet that is), Kuidaore Taro! 

- I spent some time walking around Dotonbori as well, even hopping over to Hozenji Yokocho, an alley with a temple and restored houses. The temple itself, Hozenji, was built in the 1600s, and was a bustling alley. It reminds me of the small alleys of Kyoto as well.

Entrance to Hozenji.

Hozenji.

Streets in the area.

Another entrance to the Hozenji area.

- After walking for some time, I went to the Sennichimae Shopping Street (perpendicular to Dotonbori), and visited a peculiar restaurant named "American." Yes, just "American." And it is exactly what you think: it is one of the restaurants that serve a Japanese imagination of western culture (and sometimes, it's even better!) This kind of cuisine is called "yoshoku" ("western food"). Some popular yoshoku include omurice, and the "naporitan" pasta (Japanese-style ketchup spaghetti; name based on "Napolitan" which means "from Naples"). But like what I normally see in anime, I really wanted to try their colorful and creative desserts!

LOOK AT THIS AESTHETIC!!!! I LOVE IT. It is exactly what I see in manga or anime.

For the life of me, I cannot remember what this was exactly, but all I knew was that it was good. It was some sort of fruit sundae?

Yes. American.

Of course, such a restaurant in Japan will not be complete without its realistic food art enticing everyone to try! The best part is that the food looks exactly like the display. (So it's not false advertising!)

- Finally, it was time for me to prepare my departure from the Land of the Rising Sun. I walked from my hostel to Namba Nankai Station and rode the limited express train to the airport. In true Japanese style, the train looks like something you'd see in a Super Sentai series (and it also has its own superhero character!!)

I thought my train looked like a superhero or something.

My view from the train. The setting sun, from the Land of the Rising Sun.

THE TRAIN DID NOT DISAPPOINT. IT HAD ITS OWN SUPERHERO CHARACTER I CANNOT!! I love love love love it!!

- Japan has been wonderful to me and I somehow maximized what little time I had to explore the two cities I went to. I hope I would have more chances to visit Japan in the near future, especially since I was granted a multiple-entry visa. My short time in Japan just made me want to go back and see what more it has in store!!

** Check out the other legs of my Kansai trip!

Part 1 (Kyoto): here 

Part 2 (Kyoto): here

Part 3 (Kyoto): here

Part 4 (Osaka): here

I "Kansai" I'm In Love (Part 4): The Glory of Osaka and Japanese Pop Culture!

- Nov. 20-21, 2023, Monday to Tuesday.

- Ah, Osaka!! Osaka is one of the centers of Japanese cultures and gastronomy, and is a city I longed to revisit after Kyoto. A decade back, my family went to Japan with a tour group and while I had good impressions of Osaka, I barely got to see it. Now, I have my chance.

- I left Kyoto with a limited-stop train from Kawaramachi Station, and arrived in Osaka Umeda Station, which a busting district north of the city center. Since I felt more comfortable using the metro system in Osaka, I bought my ICOCA Card, which is a transportation card that can be used all over the Kansai area (including Kyoto - and the ICOCA card can be purchased in Kyoto train ticket machines as well.) I used the ICOCA card to take the metro to Namba Station, where the heart of Osaka downtown is (and where my hostel is too).

- I stayed at Acro Capsule Hotel Namba Dotonbori; it is a relatively new capsule hotel, but it was one of the best accommodation risks I took. I had the best stay there, and the location was superb. It was close to Namba metro station, and a little hop to the Glico Man sign, Dotonbori Street, and Shinsaibashi. 

- That evening, after checking in, I took a stroll along Shinsaibashi Shopping Street, and finally decided to spend the rest of the night in Dotonbori. I had dinner in Ichiran Ramen, which is one of the most globally recognized ramen chains. Ichiran started in the 1960s in Fukuoka, until it expanded to other places in Japan in the 1990s. Now, Ichiran Ramen chains can be found in other countries as well. They're well known for their hearty ramen broth, tender tonkotsu slices, and al dente ramen noodles. The restaurant itself is known for their single-person seating where customers don't even need to say a word to the staff. (Perfect for introverts, not like me. HAHA.)

Shinsaibashi.

Finally made it back to Dotonbori!

Hmmmmm. Reminds me of Sailor Moon.

Oh, there's the famous giant crab from Kanidouraku Dotombori-Honten.

The chaos that is Dotonbori at night. (During the day, it's less crowded, I promise.)

Quirky restaurant displays.

Ichiran, finally! I had to line up for an hour perhaps.

This is what it looks like from the outside.

Glico Man! I took this photo from below the bridge.

Don Quijote, the star of tax-free souvenir shopping.

Dotonbori, my love.

- The following morning I had an early start by going to the Osaka Castle (closest stations are the Tanimachi-Yon Chome Station, and Osaka-jo Koen Station). Built in 1583, the castle is one of the most iconic landmarks of Osaka. It was built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a renowned samurai warlord and uniter of Japan. The current structure was built in 1995, after the castle was destroyed for countless times throughout history. The castle functions mainly as a museum, and I had limited photos of the museum because photography wasn't allowed in its main galleries.

The Osaka Castle appears golden during right after sunrise. Also, please notice my amazing new second-hand kimono set from Kyoto.

It appears as if I had the castle all to myself.

It looks so....symmetric. And I love it.

This is the castle's base, made of interlocking stones.

Details of the castle.

The only interesting thing I was allowed to photograph in the museum: a holographic depiction of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's life.

Few from the castle's 8th floor.

Just look at that detail.

At the second floor, there is a chance to wear a real samurai helmet and vest for a fee. Fortunately I had my kimono on, so I look very authentic. Also, how did they go to war with these ridiculously large helmets?!

 

By the way, this kind of helmet is called a "kawari kabuto" or "strange helmet". The term refers to samurai helmets that have fantastic shapes (like the one on my head), and can be influenced from animals, Japanese mythology, and other unusual shapes. The shapes help show one's presence during war.

After the photographer takes a photo of you in front of the green screen, they will add a nice background for the complete samurai feel.

The shachihoko (left) and the crouching tiger (right), symbols of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's prestige.

Castle moat.

I had breakfast at a Lawson branch inside the castle grounds. I was starving, as you can tell.

The most interesting thing I bought was a ramen-flavored noodle sandwich.

- From the museum, I took the train from Tanimachi-Yon Chome Station to Namba Station, all the way to Namba Station (go to the Nankai Line side of the station). From there, I walked all the way to Namba Yasaka Shrine. The temple is known for its larger-than-life lion's head, and a temple that combines Shinto and Buddhist beliefs. It is said to have been built in the 300s AD in order to help cure an epidemic. However, the actual lion's head was built in 1975.

I match the temple's colors!

Reminds me of the Lion-turtle in Avatar the Last Airbender!

This insect landed on me.

Shinto shrine in Namba Yasaka Shrine.

A closer look at the Shinto shrine.

From the side.

- I later took the train from Namba Nankai to Sumiyoshi-taisha (Sumiyoshi-taisha Station, Wakayamashi Line). This grand shrine was founded by the Shinto priest Tamomi no Sukune in 211 AD. The temple is also known for its taiko-bashi (or taiko-drum bridge) that welcomes visitors shortly after entering the temple premises. The bridge is called as such because of its curved appearance, and with its reflection on the water, it looks like a round taiko drum. (There are more taiko bridges in various temples across Japan.)

Entrance.

With the taiko-bashi.

Sumiyoshi-style shrine.

This type of Shinto architecture has been adapted all over Japan because of this temple.

Peek.

I like how well-preserved the temple shrines are.

- I headed back to Namba Station after visiting Sumiyoshi-taisha, and decided to have KFC. This was a big deal for me, because in case you didn't know, KFC is as Japanese as it is American. In the 1970s, KFC Japan marketed its chicken to be an American favorite and perfect as a Christmas meal - especially since turkey (which is more commonly served at special American gatherings) isn't readily available in Japan. Hence, the Japanese associating KFC with Christmas. Since Christmas was coming up, I thought why not try Japan's KFC. Unfortunately, I found out shortly that the chicken pieces were small, but the melon soda was a bit unique.

My Japan KFC 2-piece meal. 2 smallll chicken pieces, one small serving of fries, and my interesting melon soda.

- I walked back to my hostel in the early afternoon and fixed some of my things before heading out for the evening. I decided to go to Shinekai (Dobutsu-en Mae  metro station). Shinsekai is an interesting neighborhood. It was built in 1912 based on Western influences (New York and Paris), and maintains this retro charm. The tower's appearance, the lights, and the quirkiness of everything reminded me of old anime or manga art. It is also less overwhelming than Dotonbori, as it is less crowded, but also with less food and shopping choices. Still, this charming neighborhood was the reason why I decided to go dressed up as a male version of one of Japan's most iconic characters. Can you guess who it is?

"In the name of the moon, I'll punish you (in Shinsekai.)"

This is supposed to be a male version but apparently I was very much in character.

I hear someone calling for help!

Just waiting for the monsters to come rolling in!

Penguins.

See how much it looks like I'm in a manga/anime?

After a night of fighting monsters, I'm beat.

It looks like everything was painted with light.

A sumo restaurant - and that means eating food with serving sizes as what the sumo wrestlers would have.

This now-closed iconic pufferfish restaurant.

I'm scared.

The famous Japanese manholes. This one represents Osaka (because I'm in Osaka.)

- Never in my life did I cosplay formally, let alone cosplay in a public place and abroad. But it was an interesting experience. Anyway, I decided not to eat in Shinsekai because I didn't find a restaurant that spoke to me, so I decided to go back to Dotonbori so I'd have more choices.

SUSHI.

Very Japanese.

This is the restaurant. I remember my family wanting to eat here 10 years back, but it had too many people so we ended up eating some place else. Now I had my chance.

I also had takoyaki because Osaka is famous for its takoyaki. It was nice.

- I ended the night fulfilled as I had seen most of what I wanted to see in Osaka. I still had one more day to see and experience more of Osaka - what else does the city have in store? Find out in the next blog!

** Check out the other legs of my Kansai trip!

Part 1 (Kyoto): here 

Part 2 (Kyoto): here

Part 3 (Kyoto): here

Part 5 (Osaka): here