Wednesday, August 3, 2022

Life Down Under (Part 1): Impressions of Melbourne

 - July 20-25, 2022, Wednesday to Monday.

- Before you say anything, yes I am as surprised as you to know that I am here in Australia. After 2 years of the pandemic (note: it is still on-going though people feel as if it has ended), I was finally able to travel overseas again! I know the borders of many countries have already opened for leisure, but I am still a bit worried about the pandemic. This is why I haven't gone abroad despite the opening of borders. However, this trip isn't really for pure leisure. I am here in Australia - Melbourne to be exact - to do research for a couple of months before I go back to the Philippines.  

- I flew to Melbourne on July 19 with my colleague Andrew and arrived in Melbourne on the morning of the 20th. From the airport we rode a shuttle going to the Melbourne Central Business District (CBD) where we are staying. Despite lack of sleep, we had no choice but to do errands for the house. Not much touring, but at least I was able to familiarize the city center a bit. The main mode of transportation in Melbourne is via tram, bus, or for very far places, trains. Going around the CBD is quite easily done on foot. Trams in the CBD are also free (free tram zone). If going out of the free tram zone, one must need a Myki card. It is an all-around card that can be used for any mode of public transport. Cards can be usually be purchased or topped up in convenience stores or some kiosks in train stations. (I think it's easier to get one in a convenience store. I got mine in a 7-Eleven.) 

- By the way, being in the southern hemisphere, it is currently winter. Winters in Australia, I was told, are mild compared to winters in the harsher northern hemisphere winters (and based on my experiences, I can agree to that)

Streets of Melbourne.

I like how they still preserve old buildings and repurpose them. Oh and there's the tram too!

My first lunch. The nearest open restaurant at around 3pm? Was too busy doing errands during the day.

Look at all my orange things. (There were also orange items that didn't make it to the photo haha.)

Flinders Station at night with some colorful light projections. (Will talk more about it later.) Our Australian colleague Anthony was kind enough to walk us around the vicinity.

- On Thursday I met my friend and college batchmate Karin for lunch at a restaurant called Brick Lane. Afterwards, we headed to the National Gallery of Victoria (international collection), located south of Melbourne. The NGV is accessible by trams 1, 3/3a, 5, 6, 16, 64, 67, 72 to the Arts Precinct/St. Kilda Road stop.

Long time no see mayt!

The Yarra River. The Arts Precinct, where the museum is, is just across the river.

NGV.

- The NGV was founded in 1861 and is the oldest art museum in Australia. The international collection mostly boasts European art, with a small section on Asian, Latin American, and African art. The layout of the museum was a bit confusing, but I still enjoyed my stay. It was my turn to "tour" Karin around the museum since history and culture are my turfs.

1920s French art (as seen in everyday things.)

This gallery was a big wow!


Afghan and Uzbek kaftans, and a saree.

Indian contemporary art. Looks like it's from medieval India but it's actually about COVID!!

Indian contemporary art.

- From the NGV, we took the same tram line southward to the Shrine of Remembrance (Grand St. / Police Memorial / St. Kilda / Shrine of Remembrance stop.) The shrine was built after World War I to honor the soldiers from Australia who fell in the war. The shrine has since been used to honor all the soldiers who served in all wars.

It looks amazing both outside and inside!

Everlasting fire outside. Not sure how they're able to keep it blazing despite the winds.

A boat!

Army uniforms.

The crypt.

Flag of Australia.

View of the CBD from the balcony.

The view is just stunning.

- After visiting the shrine, Karin and I rode the tram back tot he CBD and had dinner together in an amazing hotpot place. The perfect meal for a cold winter night!

- The next day we had a meeting with our Australian colleague Trevor during the day, and he gave us an informative walking tour of the city. In the evening, I met up with my long-time friend Megan! It was a last minute invitation and I was glad she was available. We haven't seen each other in years too!

Still surreal to see you again here!!

- Saturday was probably the first full day that I had to explore by myself. On a rainy Saturday morning I went to visit Flinders Station. The best way is by trams 35, 75, or 75 to Swanston Street-Flinders Station stop or trams 1, 3/3a, 5, 6, 16, 64, 67, 72 to Flinders Station stop. This should take you to the main facade. Built originally in the 1850s as the "Melbourne Terminus," the current building was finished in 1904. Rumor has it that the design of this station was actually meant for Mumbai's Chhatrapaji Shivaji Terminus (CST), also known as the Victoria Terminus (see here). It was said that the designs for both stations were sent out roughly the same time and they got switched in the post. Whether this is true or not, this is still Melbourne's most iconic landmark. People would usually meet under the clocks above its main door too.

Melbourne's finest. Oh, and there's the station too. HAHAHAHA.

- From the station I walked a few meters west along Flinders Street to see the famous Hosier Lane. It rose to popularity in 1998 after it was hailed as a street gallery. Colorful and skillfully-made murals have decorated the walls of Hosier Lane, most with some kind of social or political message.

Yes, I bought gum for this. (And it was disposed properly afterwards haha. There was literally a trash can behind me here.)

And of the smaller lanes perpendicular to Hosier Lane.

- Hosier Lane however isn't the only mural-filled lane in the area, as parallel lanes also have their fair share of murals. Another famous lane is called AC/DC Lane, and yes, for the famous band. The band started out in Melbourne before going elsewhere.

They even had the lightning bolt!

- Across Flinders Station is the Federations Square (or "Fed Square"). Opened in 2002 as a public square, it houses several establishments such as the NGV Ian Potter Centre (Australian art collection), the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI), the Koorie Heritage Trust (indigenous non-profit organization), and other stores.

Fed Square art installation. It's called...."The Eyes." (I'm sure you were very surprised. HAHA.) also, the whole of Melbourne seemed happy about my shirt. They told me that I was bright and colorful, unlike most Melbournians who usually go for black. Also, it was something cheerful and nice to see on a gloomy rainy day. Well, good to know I made several people happy that day. Haha. (Got my shirt from H&M! The jacket I got in an online store.)

An official replica of New York's "Fearless Girl" statue in Wall Street. 

NGV Ian Potter Centre.

The centre has traditional and modern indigenous art.

This gallery had larger than life skulls that represented modern atrocities.

Beside the NGV Ian Potter Centre is ACMI and its film museum.

A Mecca for film buffs.


The Koorie Heritage Trust had a modest gallery on indigenous material culture.


This restaurant is not to be missed! Mabu Mabu is a Torres-Strait-indigenous-owned restaurant that serves indigenous dishes with a modern twist.

I had crocodile for lunch with hot chocolate mixed with some indigenous spices.

- While having lunch, I had an impromptu meeting with my former student Celline. She's currently based in Melbourne too. While waiting for her, I had a brief visit to St. Paul's Cathedral across Fed Square (same side of the street as Hosier Lane). The Anglican cathedral was built in 1891, but the spires of the building were added in the 1930s.

St. Paul's Cathedral. Notice how the spires are of a different color, as they were installed later on.

Cathedral interior.

- I met Celline outside the cathedral and rode the tram from Flinders to the Immigration Museum (30, 70, 75 to Market Street / Flinders Street stop.) The museum is located in the Old Customs House. It actually reminded me of the Ellis Island Immigration Museum, which is located inside the old Immigration Station (see here). Australia is also a country that has welcomed many immigrants, so having an immigration museum just seems appropriate. (It is also a museum that has an entrance fee, as most museums don't charge.)

Immigration Museum.

The "Long Room" and the main hall.

A wall of passports.

- A block away from the Immigration Museum is Melbourne Sea Life (one tram stop away from the Immigration Museum, Melbourne Aquarium / Flinders Street stop.) The aquarium, opened in 2000, has various species of fish, other marine creatures, and some reptiles. It was quite small, and frankly I was a bit underwhelmed. The best part though was seeing the fat and fluffy penguins near the exit!

Here we are!

We had time to spare before our entrance time so we had some coffee in a nearby cafe.

Saw this giant lobster! Looks yummy.

A big fat crocodile. Lolong is that you?

This cod's name is Shirley. (That's according to the description beside the tank.)

Fat rays. (Did you know that stingrays are edible?)

Pregnant seahorses. (They're male by the way, in case you didn't know.)

This penguin was just....standing there. I joined in.

They took a photo of us right after entering the aquarium, and then they used our photo with different backgrounds. Among the photos, this was my favorite!!

Rialto Towers, can be seen right outside the aquarium. They taller tower was the tallest office building in the southern hemisphere when it were built.

- After our trip to the aquarium, Celline and I spent the rest of the afternoon shopping. We later had dinner so we could have more time to chat before calling it a day. It was nice to catch up with her after a few years!

Indonesian dinner.

Churros for dessert.

- Sunday was my first real me-day, and I decided to go around other parts of the CBD. I spent my morning at the Queen Victoria Market ("Vic Market") (Trams 19, 57m, 59 to Queen Victoria Market / Elizabeth Street stop, or tram 58 to Queen Victoria Market / Peele Street stop). It is a market that has been operating from the 1800s, and is one of the last markets of its kind. Before the market was built, it was a cemetery. I guess you can temporarily forget that fact as you immerse yourself in the bustling and colorful market! The market has everything you can imagine: meat and produce, cooked food, souvenirs, clothes, textile. Be prepared to get overwhelmed!

I missed going around big markets.

There were just so many things inside!


- After dropping off some of the things I got from the market at home, I visited the Hellenic Museum of Melborune (tram 30 or 35, La Trobe Street / William Street stop.) The Hellenic Museum is located inside the former Royal Melbourne Mint. The museum itself was founded in 2007 and is the only museum in Australia to showcase Greek artifacts. Although it seems random to have this museum in Australia, it made sense after knowing that Australia has one of the biggest Greek communities outside Greece.

Hellenic Museum.

It does remind me of my trip to Greece back in 2014! (See herehere, and here!)

Burial crown.

Traditional costumes.

Fancy!

Olympic torches.

More recent Olympic torches.

- From the Hellenic Museum I walked to Bourke Street Mall (also accessible by trams 86 or 96 to Bourke Street Mall stop). It is a shopping street lined with malls and other shops.

Bourke Street Mall, featuring one of Melbourne's trams.

Other side, with 120 Collins Street Tower at the right (the one that looks like the Empire State, which was its inspiration.)

Statues of commuters.

- I checked our some stores before walking to the Town Hall (trams 11, 12, 48 or 109 to Town Hall / Collins Street stop), the Manchester Unity Building, the Scots' Church, and the St. Michael's Uniting Church. They were kind of in the same area, near the south of the CBD.

Melbourne Town Hall, opened in 1870.

The Manchester Unity Building, built in the 1930s and modeled after Chicago's Tribune Tower. It is an office and retail building.

It partly reminds me of New York's Art Deco buildings.

This cafe has been here since the 1930s!

St. Michael's Uniting Church from the mid-1800s. Too bad wasn't able to see inside.

The Scots' Church, a presbyterian church from the mid-1800s.

Inside the church. Interestingly, there was a KOREAN service going on.

- That late afternoon, I visited the Block Arcade and the Royal Arcade, which were right across each other. They're in the vicinity of Bourke Street Mall in the heart of the CBD. The Block Arcade was built in 1893 and was inspired from Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II, which is also a shopping arcade (see here to compare). The Royal Arcade is also known for the Hopetoun Tea Rooms, which opened in 1894. I was fortunate enough to grab a seat, and indoors (as they have outdoor seating.) I'm glad I wore the right shirt for the right place (well, I planned it anyway HAHA. Was just really lucky to have gone inside.)

Having Darjeeling tea and tiramisu.

Very Art-Nouveau inspired (William Morris anyone?)

Everything looked scrumptious! (They also serve actual meals, not just cake.)

Very Italian.

Was lucky to get this photo as there were a lot of people that time.

- The Royal Arcade, opened in 1870, has also been a popular shopping destination. It is the oldest continuously-used arcade in Australia. However, many stores were empty when I visited as they closed down due to the pandemic. There were still a lot open too though. The arcade is also known for its status, Gog and Magog, who are in charge of chiming the clock every hour. Gog and Magog, I learned, were Biblical characters.

It doesn't look big now, but this was the place to be back in the 1870s!

Me, pointing to Gog and Magog and the clock.

- I feel I should take a pause after this, since there is an overwhelming amount of information in this post alone. However, this post does give you a general idea of some of the many many incredible things to see and do in Melbourne. I am here for quite a while and so I am also spreading out some of the other things that I wish to do in Melbourne. I'm just glad that I am able to see the world again after so long, and hopefully I will have a lovely stay in Australia!