All Aboard the Indian Coast Guard Ships!!: A Visit to Kadmatt And Satpura in Manila's Pier 15

- October 4, 2017, Wednesday.

- Whenever something Indian comes my way, I usually try my best to grab the opportunity to experience anything Indian. This includes the 4-day visit of two Indian coast guard ships from Oct. 3 to Oct. 6. The Indian coast guard ships Kadmatt and Satpura dropped their anchors in Manila's Pier 15 as part of the ships' three-month trip across the ASEAN countries, as well as South Korea and Russia. Their visit to the ASEAN countries marks the 25th anniversary of India and ASEAN's bilateral relations. I think this is significant not only because they've have diplomatic relations for quarter of a century, but more importantly because it strengthens the foundation of the historical relations of India and Southeast Asia since ancient Asia (and yes, the Philippines was indeed indianized before the Spanish came - remember that!)

Kadmatt in front, and Satpura at the back.

The Indian flag or the "tiranga."

- Even though I teach history in the university, I am not the best person to talk about when it comes to weapons, war ships, tanks, guns, or canons; I actually hate talking about wars even though it's inevitable in my classes. They're just not part of my interests. Perhaps my Indian past life was urging me to go after I heard of the public viewing schedule, which is why I decided to go anyway (I am an Indian specialist after all.) It would be a good opportunity to mingle with Indians, and at least know a little bit about their advances in technology through the coast guard ships. Also, I felt a bit nostalgic since I had my first Indian coast guard ship visit in 2012; the ship was named "Samrat" (click here to see my "VIP" visit to Samrat with the former Indian ambassador.)

Hello. Please take me to India.

- I arrived at Pier 15 a bit past 3 in the afternoon; the visiting hours were from 3pm to 6pm. Thinking that I would probably be alone, it surprised me to see a bunch of other people (both Indians and non-Indians) who took interest in viewing the ships. Some visitors who went were enthusiasts of anything military-related. I was happy when they asked if I was a blogger since I don't usually have that "blogger vibe" like some of my friends who blog professionally, but they seemed disappointed when they found out that I wasn't the blogger they wanted to mingle with (whoops sorry.) They thought I also blogged about military stuff like the blogs that they read, but I said that I specialized in travel and culture.

- INS Kadmatt was commissioned in 2016 and functions as an anti-submarine warfare ship. It is commanded by Commanded Nithin Cariappa. The ship is named after Kadmatt Island of India's Lakshadweep Islands.

Yay for bilateral relations!!

At the bow(?) of the ship. Look at 'em guns!! Ratatatatatatatatat.

- Too bad, photography was not allowed inside both ships, but all I can tell you is that Kadmatt has an awesome helicopter inside - just like the one I saw inside Samrat in 2012. Since photography was only allowed outside, I was able to take photos of the front of the ship. It was quite daunting with all the guns. The people on the ship were quite accommodating, and since some of them had a bit of difficulty speaking English, I had to adjust by speaking in Hindi. As usual I was barraged with questions, like if I was Northeast Indian (people there look Chinese/Burmese because of Northeast India's proximity to Tibet and Myanmar) since I was wearing my Indian kurta and coat, with a necklace bearing the national emblem and colors of India, or how I learned to speak quite-decent Hindi. I was very glad they understood me, at least I was able to talk to them a bit more. I also got to help them out with their shopping queries (yes, they're given some time to go around the city when they're not on duty.)

Emblem of the ship. "Kadmatt: Nirvighnamoo Karomi" (Kadmatt: Remover of Obstacles.)

With some of the nice people on the ship.

- I later visited INS Satpura, which is a multipurpose stealth ship. I learned that stealth ships are the kind of ships that are supposed to be hard to detect by most forms of radar or sonar methods. They're also supposed to be harder to spot visually. Despire this, Satpura is actually bigger and heavier than Kadmatt. Its captain is Captain Rahul Shankar.

I like the effect of the light and the reflection.

My photoshoot photo of the day.

See the logo of the hsip in the middle and at the sides of the swimming ring.

Spot the not. 

This cardboard guy was just welcoming people to the ship. :)) :)) :)) :)) (There's another one just like him towards the rear of the ship.)

 - Satpura also does not fall short in terms artillery compared to Kadmatt. Satpura can do land attacks too!! Also, before coming to the Philippines, Satpura had a month-long journey across the Southern Indian Ocean without any port calls (i.e. it traveled nonstop without docking); this shows the great advancements in India's naval technology. Despite all these features, my favorite part of my visit to the ship was that there were free Indian biscuits and Indian tea at the bow of the ship (such a person I am, huhu.)

Yes, you're the best ship, Satpura. (Just please, don't shoot me.)

Not to be messed with.

See 'em guns!!

- I finally left the pier after my little afternoon "field trip" to the two ships. I learned a bit more about naval stuff through my small chats with the people on board; it was still nice to learn something new even if it wasn't something that would normally interest me. What I am most happy about - aside from the free biscuits and drinks - is that there are continuous efforts to strengthen the diplomatic ties between India and the Philippines. I just hope that this strengthening of ties will expand to and be more apparent in other sectors beyond military, politics, and business.

"Grave Hunting" in Paco Park and "Miracle Searching" in Malate Church

- Sept. 29, 2017, Friday.

- When one thinks of touristy things to do in Manila, the first two places that come to mind are Intramuros, and the adjacent Rizal Park. Both of these places are, of course, related to Manila's Spanish colonial past. While these two iconic places are definitely worth a visit - regardless if you're a resident or a tourist/visitor of Manila - there are other nearby places that add puzzle pieces to the narrative of what we know about our colonial past.

- My first stop for the afternoon was Manila's humble Paco Park. It can be reached by riding the LRT1 line to UN Avenue Station, then walking a couple of blocks along Gen. Luna Street (diagonal with UN Avenue.) This park was originally a cemetery named "Cemeterio General de Dilao" that was inagurated in the early 1800s. It was a burial site for the affluent of Manila, particularly those who lived in nearby Intramuros. After ceasing all interments in 1912, it was later used as an ammunition depot and some sort of fort by the Japanese. The park/cemetery's walls, after all, were so thick that the Japanese thought of repurposing the cemetery/park, this way. Also, the Paco Park's structure has an outer ring and an inner circle, which meant that there were two walls that protected the heart of this small space (one to protect the outer ring, and another to protect the inner circle.)

Most people today don't know that the park was once a cemetery.

The door to the inner circle.

The main attraction: St. Pancratius Chapel.

- Today, the Paco Park is not only for tourists, but a also place where students from nearby schools hang out and rehearse for their class activities, where people can just sit down and relax, or where people can shoot prenuptial photoshoots or actually get married. The main attraction can be instantly seen in this small park: the St. Pancratius Chapel, also known as the "Paco Church." This romaneque church was formally opened the same time the park/cemetery did. From what I understand it only opens whenever there's mass or special occasions, but I was able to take a photo through the slightly tinted and dusty windows of the main gate.

Close up of the chapel.

What it looks like inside, took a photo through the tinted/dusty window. The worst photo of the day turned out to be the best one (after a few adjustments to lighting and contrast.)

Beside the chapel; of course I didn't miss the opportunity to take this shot. By the way I'm wearing my Indian kurta that resembles the clothes Filipinos wore during the Spanish era.

- Going around the park can take anywhere from 30minutes to an hour (or even an hour and a half if you REALLY want to take your time,) because visitors can climb up the inner wall and see the whole park from the "second floor." I thought I liked the park already from flat ground, but boy did it look a lot more stunning from above the wall!!

Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall, thankfully he didn't have a great fall!!

- For history buffs, the park/cemetery's past won't be the only thing that will be of interest. In my case, the main reason for going to the park is not just to see the park, but to see two important tombs. The first one is the tomb where the three priests of Gomburza (Gomez, Burgos, and Zamora) were buried. The three priests were executed in Bagumbayan (now the Rizal Park,) because they acted against the Spanish authorities. Their "joint" tomb is located in the outer ring at the right side of the main entrance (while facing the Paco Church.) It's not hard to find because the park is small and their tomb has a big cross and a visible marker.

It wasn't much of a grave hunt actually since it was right there, before my very eyes.

- The more significant tomb - and the more controversial one - is the first burial site of Jose P. Rizal, the country's national hero. Although most Filipinos will know that the body of Rizal is currently buried underneath the ever-famous monument in Rizal Park, the first burial site was actually in Paco Park. (If the GOMBURZA one is to the right of the outer ring, Rizal's is at the left side of the outer ring.) Again, this won't be much of a "hunt" since the grave site is clearly marked. Now, this is how the story goes. After Rizal was shot in Bagumbayan (again, today's Rizal Park,) his body was hastily buried, and not even a proper burial (i.e. no coffin and all, and his body was just dumped in a hole) in Paco Park, which, if you've been following this post attentively, was a cemetery. Rizal's sister was looking for her brother's burial site, and eventually found her brother's grave in Paco Park. She then had a plaque placed on the grave, both as a marker and a sign of respect, with Rizal's inverted initials - "RPJ" (instead of "JPR.") Two years later, Rizal's family was granted permission to relocate the body (after identifying it as Jose Rizal's) first in their home in Binondo, and in 1912, the remains eventually found its way to the Rizal monument in Rizal Park after the statue was built. Today, the better-looking and well-labeled burial site in Paco Park still bears the inverted initials.

To be honest, you don't need much "grave hunting" to see this. This is said to be the original burial site.

Please read. :) :) :) :)

See the inverted initials??

Rizal's bust.

- Before leaving the park, I got to see the other burial areas of the park at the outer ring. Currently, there are people hired to restore the tombs by breaking and restoring the tombs' seals. I got to see an open tomb with a perfectly preserved Spanish-era coffin. Too bad I couldn't go near (and I wouldn't dare actually,) and I wasn't allowed to take photographs. There was also another empty tomb near that one that used to be infested with bees. How do I know this? The empty tomb had a large empty beehive. (Thankfully, the bees weren't there anymore!!) Of course, even if it was an empty tomb (or at least I thought it was empty since the beehive was blocking my view?) I was also not allowed to take photos of that. By the way, since the park/cemetery stopped interments in 1912, as mentioned a while ago, many tombs were relocated by the families, and so only a few tombs in the park today have coffins/remains in them.

- After my surprisingly informative and exciting "grave (not too much) hunting," I left and took an ever-reliable Uber to a lesser-visited historical church in Manila: the Malate Church. The church is this old and quiet church that has a stunning view of the Manila Bay since it was built in the late 1500s; it's a little bit more than 2 kilometers from Paco Park. (Bonus: this church is close to the original and still-open Aristoricat Restaurant, so maybe you'd like to have a meal after visiting the church?) The main entrance, from my understanding, is not used unless there is a mass or a big event; otherwise, only the side door is open for casual visitors of the church. There are people who visit it for weddings, masses, and other things, but it's just that it's quite rare for me (throughout the years!!) to hear people say that they'll go to Malate Church for whatever reason as compared to other churches in and out of Manila. Drawing from this, I developed enough curiosity to want to visit this church since I've heard of it and seen it from a distance, but never actually visited it ever in my life. (Such a Manileno I am.)

Visitors will be welcome by this plaque and the statue below.

Both are memorials to those who perished in WWII, including some Columban priests who kept the people company and died with them eventually.

 - The church interior might not seem as impressive as bigger and more prominent churches of the city, but its main wonder lies in the statue of the Virgin Mary at the center of the church. History says that the Virgin Mary statue, in her form as "Our Lady of Remedies" ("Nuestra Senora de Remedios,") was brought in from Andalusia, and enshrined in the church in 1624. The statue is said to bring miracles, particularly on thing relating to healing and blessing babies. Until today, the people who visit the Virgin Mary statue ask for blessings in the belief that she can make miracles happen. 

"Our Lady of Remedies" from Andalusia.

Interior.

- For me, the highlight of the Malate Church is not the interior (save the Virgin Mary statue,) but the facade that sets if apart from all the other churches that I've seen in Manila. At first glance, it looks like a typical baroque church - particularly "earthquake baroque style" (wider features as a way to better survive earthquakes) - but a closer inspection of the building shows that it incorporates a lot of moorish elements such as the "fake doors/windows" at the "towers" of the facade. This style of incorporating Muslim/Moorish elements to architecture is called "mudejarismo" (to see more of Islamic architecture in Spain, click here to see my trip to Cordoba!!) Another prominent feature would be the twisted columns that not many churches in the Philippines have; this is a baroque influence. Apart from Baroqie and Muslim influences, there are also aspects of the church facade that show influences of Renaissance architecture.

See everything I mentioned here? It really is a charming church.

The best place to take a photo with the church is in the plaza/square in front of the church. It's called Rajah Sulayman Plaza/Park.

- I finally had to leave Malate Church to go to another appointment for the day; I almost missed it because I had too much fun in my unconventional adventure to Paco Park and Malate Church. It is always fun to be a tourist in your own backyard. No matter how much you think you know the city you live in, give it a chance, know its (hi)story, and it will never cease to surprise you!! 

From Mindanao to Manila: Yuchengco Museum's Exhibit on Mindanao Textiles and Jewelry

- Sept. 22, 2017, Friday.

- The Yuchengco Museum (as of Sept. 29 while writing this article) is holding two on-going temporary exhibits on Mindanao culture, entitled "Origins and Translations: Mindanao Tapestry" and "Silken Courts: The Maranao Malong - Garments of Identity and Continuity." These two exhibits are located at the third floor gallery. I have to thank my department secretary in the university where I work for telling me about this, since she knows that not only do I appreciate cultures in general -especially those involving costumes and jewelry - but I also have my own stash of Mindanao fabric and jewelry in my vast collection of cultural/ethnic wear and jewelry. Of course I screamed at the top of my lungs in my department in excitement after our department secretary told me about this. Needless to say, I just had to visit this exhibit before it ends. (I phoned the Yuchengco Museum and told me that they don't have an end date yet to this excellent temporary exhibit.)

Hello Yuchengco Museum.

- The Yuchengco Museum, by the way, is located in RCBC Plaza, at the corner of Gil Puyat Avenue and Ayala Avenue. The museum is owned by Ambassador Alfonso Yuchengco, a prominent Filipino-Chinese figure (he's a philantropist, and ambassador, a businessman, art enthusiast, to name a few things he does.) He passed away earlier this year. His family owns RCBC (Rizal Commercial Banking Corporation,) so it's no surprise that the museum is located inside the RCBC Plaza. This young museum was opened just in 2005.

You'll see this on the way to the museum.

 - Recently, Philippine news has been bombarded with not-so-happy news about certain places in Mindanao (ex. Marawi in Lanao del Sur, Maguindanao, etc..) I think this relevant back-to-back exhibit gives a subtle nod to those places by celebrating their indigenous cultures and allows people to see these places as rich cradles of Mindanao's colorful indigenous cultures. Some cultures featured include the T'bolis of Cotabato, the Maranaos of Lanao del Sur, the B'laan of Cotabato and Davao, just to name a few.     

- The Maranao malong gallery not only had malongs on display, but what I loved the most about it was the mannequins showcasing the different ways the the malong can be used through a diorama akin to the singkil dance. Of course, knowing me, I brought a few pieces from my collection and wore them so I can get the feel of being one with the exhibit. Ms. Elma, the museum's program officer, saw me walking around with my Maranao inspired getup and told me that I seemed to belong to the exhibit. (I couldn't agree more, and that was the goal.)

A "buraq" on a Maranao ritual blanket. This creature from Islamic mythology was supposed to carry prophets from one place to another.

A male and female Maranao formal costume.

Ready to dance the singkil??

One of them. My yellow/golden shirt was made by my Muslim tailor. It was supposed to resemble a Maranao groom's shirt.

The whole squad; this tableau shows the different ways that a malong can be worn.

This bridge thing at the third floor is the best place to have a photoshoot in the Yuchengco Museum.

Hello, it me.

- Apart from the tableau, there were also spexial malongs exhibited, such as those used by the Maranao royalty, or those with epics embroidered on them. If only I had the chance, I would've wanted to take all of them home!!

This was my favorite: a malong with the epic Darangen embroidered on it.

- In the adjacent gallery on Mindanao tapestry, I had to opportunity to examine the techniques of weaving and jewelry-making from the other groups in Mindanao. It was also an opportunity for me to understand more the things I have in my closet, since it's difficult to find in-depth information on Philippine indigenous clothing and design. Though I knew the basics of all the cultural things that I buy, I always love the opportunity to learn more.

Poster and a female Mandaya costume.

The T'boli's famed t'nalak fabric; it is said that the designs are dreamt by the weavers, and hence the weavers are called "dream weavers."

Brought my own lmimot, which is a kind of T'boli necklace, and the guard at the museum was more excited than me when he saw that the one I brought was a smaller version of the one they have in the exhibit.

Costume change into my Mansaka-inspired costume. The mannequin at the back has a Lumad costume.

With a female Manobo costume.

- After going around the exhibit, I spent some time doing my photoshoot inspired by the exhibit. I changed into my Mansaka- and Tausug-inspired costumes. (I even brought my janggay - silver nail - set for my pangalay photo.)

Mansaka-inspired. The coat was designed by well-respected Davao designer and former member of the Bayanihan Dance Troupe, Alfonso Guino-o.

My Tausug inspired costume. My bandana is an authentic Tausug scarf. My silver-nails used to dance the pangalay dance were shipped from Zamboanga; I bought my nails from a professional pangalay dancer.

I bought my Tausug scarf from the Tausug weavers that the national museum invited to demonstrate their weaving culture (click here to see my interaction with the Tausug people.) The nails on my fingers may be used by both female and male pangalay dancers.

- After going around the exhibit for one last time, I went to see the other permanent exhibits and dropped by the souvenir shop at the lobby. They were also selling ethnic jewelry and fabric aside from the usual books and paraphernalia in the museum's gift shop.

The permanent exhibit area at the ground floor.

Amorsolo's "Urduja" painting.

- I finally left the museum after a whole day of absorbing myself in the stunning exhibit; to think I expected to stay for only around 2 hours. I think there should me more exhibits like this one to let people know that Mindanao is not just a place with "many dangers" (as how Mindanao is usually framed or shown in media), but Mindanao is also a region in the Philippines with a variety of flamboyant, rainbow-touched, and regal cultures that have their roots in the Philippines' glorious pre-colonial past.