Living the Life in Laos! (Part 4): Kuang Si Falls, Pak Ou Caves, and the Mekong River!

- November 25, 2025, Tuesday.

- Luang Prabang has been amazing for the most part, but there are a couple of places in my bucket list outside the city proper. Thankfully, GetYourGuide has a 2-in-1 package of these far-flung places, and at opposite side too! These are the Kuang Si Waterfalls and the Pak Ou Caves.

- I realized that the morning market was located literally outside my hotel, so I had a brief stroll. I noticed that apart from the usual stuff (fruits, vegetables, meat, seafood, clothes, etc.), they sold birds (not sure if exotic?) both dead and alive, frogs, insects, you name it.

Morning Market.

Birds and pupae.

Bugs.

Different kinds of bugs.

Hives with bees inside.

- After our tour guide picked me and other passengers up, we headed first to a small Hmong Village to visit the Hmong people. It was an ultra short visit, just a walk through the alley between their homes. The Hmong people (also called "Miao" in China) are hilltribe people, known for their detailed embroidery, big silver jewelry, and the fact that they're stateless (that is, they are scattered across mainland Southeast Asian countries). The most famous Hmong person, internationally that is, is probably Brenda Song (yes, London Tipton / Wendy Wu herself!!) We learned that they tend to marry early and have big families, and have a slightly different way of preparing food compared to Lao people, such as their preference for non-sticky rice (and Lao people love their sticky rice for all meals). 

Hmong girl in a semi-modernized traditional clothing. (Photo taken with permission.)

Another Hmong girl. (Photo taken with permission.)

One of the many souvenir stalls outside houses.

They wanted to take a photo with me.

- I would have wanted to stay and chat with the Hmong people more, but our tour guide whisked us away to our first main destination, the Kuang Si Falls. The Kuang Si Falls is a series of cascading waterfalls that look white and blue, giving the falls an ethereal look. Each level looks different too, but the hike up the mountain is easy since there are stairs made for tourists. In the past, the areas surrounding the falls were inhabited by Hmong communities. However, there were times when the area would experience drought because of the slash-and-burn style of farming. To restore and preserve the natural beauty of the falls, the communist government relocated the hill tribe communities after coming to power in the 1970s.

There was a bear rescue center on the way to the falls. This is an ethical bear rescue center.

These are called Asiatic Black Bears, or Moon Bears.

The lowest level of waterfalls. This alone was already nice enough!

Second level. Each "pool" looks wider and flatter.

At the third level, closer to the peak, here the waterfalls look bigger.

See, they come from the top of the mountain!

- After an hour of going around the falls, we had lunch at the Manifa Elephant Camp. Unlike the one I visited in Bangkok, this one is a very very ethical camp, which treats elephants well and gives them freedom to roam around the camp (which is mostly natural by the way). Although our main visit was to have a buffet lunch, we were also given the chance to interact with one of the elephants after lunch. I finished lunch really early so I had so much time with the elephant until my other tourmates finished their meal and also wanted to have a close encounter with the elephant. 

Elephant!!

She was so gentle....and always hungry. Haha. I had to feed it so many bananas!!

I love the way the trunk curls here.

- We later rode big motor boats going to the Pak Ou Caves from the elephant camp. The Pak Ou Caves have obscure origins, but it was used as a Buddhist cave since the 1500s. Usually, it is only during the Laotian New Year that the royalty, and eventually local Buddhist devotees came to the cave to place a Buddha and ask for blessings. This is why there is an assorted collection of Buddha statues in the caves. 

Mekong boat ride.

Blending in.

About to dock. (You can see the cave opening.)

Upper cave.

- There are two main caves: a higher one and a lower one. The higher cave is more spacious but has less Buddha statues, while the lower cave is smaller but has more Buddha statues and is more visited by tourists. The place was nice but I was underwhelmed, but only because I always had the impression that the Pak Ou caves were long and deep like most cave systems I've been too (especially Buddhist ones). But despite this, it does not remove the awe that I felt being there, and seeing all the Buddha statues facing the Mekong!

Lower cave.

Many small Buddhas!

I used to think that these Buddhas reached kilometers inside the cave.

Facing the Mekong.

- Before going back to the city, we had a stopover at Xanghai Village to learn how they make traditional Lao whiskey. They often use different kinds of local rice grains to make their whiskey. Unfortunately, because of a medical situation, I wasn't able to try any of their whisky. It still was nice to learn thought.

A variety of whiskey.

- A highlight of the trip was also the sunset that we caught on the way back to the city center of Luang Prabang. We also saw the bright moon rising as the sun was setting, as well as the twinkling lights of Luang Prabang from afar!

Sunset!

Glad I caught this moment!

See the small moon.

Approaching Luang Prabang (left).

- As usual I had dinner at Phan Boun and had another pleasant stroll at the night market. I tried to see if there was any other restaurant that interested me, but Phan Boun seemed to be the best option for me. The night market, as always, never fails to make me happy with so much color around!

I look really Hmong now.

Sticky rice, assorted steamed vegetables, young bamboo, meat with egg batter, then the centerpiece - or lam! Or lam is a beef stew with a mild peppery taste from the chili wood (but don't eat the wood!). For dessert, sliced bananas in coconut milk.

Try guessing my favorite color.

- My well-paced tour for the day let me experience places I really never thought I'd get to visit in my life. Both the Kuang Si Waterfalls and the Pak Ou Caves seemed too hidden for people to disturb. Although the reality is far from this kind of imagination I had, I was far far far far from disappointed. I couldn't count how many times I said "WOW!!" and "OMG!!!!" the whole day. The cherry on top - I got to make friends with an elephant!!    

** Check out my other adventures in Thailand and Laos here!

THAILAND:

Part 1: Wat Saket and Dog Cafe - here

Part 2: Kanchanaburi - here

Part 3: Maeklong Railway Market, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market - here

Part 4: Phetchaburi and Hua Hin - here

Part 5: Wat Paknam, Capybara Cafe, B Story Cafe, Madame Tussauds - here

Part 6: Chulalongkorn University - here

LAOS:   

Part 1 (Vientiane): Patuxai, Buddha Park, and Vientiane's Temples - here

Part 2 (Vientiane): Pha That Luang, Lao Art Museum - here

Part 3 (Luang Prabang): Royal Palace, Phousi Hill, Night Market - here 

Part 5 (Luang Prabang): Sai Bat, Wat Xieng Thong, and Other Temples - here

Part 6 (Luang Prabang / Bangkok): Sai Bat Again, Some Temples, Bangkok Jodd Fairs - here

Living the Life in Laos! (Part 3): Accidentally in Love with Luang Prabang!

- November 24, Monday.

- Royalty in Laos is best experienced in Luang Prabang. It was a capital during some eras of Lao history, such as the height of the Kingdom of Lan Xang, and remains to be the seat of royal administration until the communist government took over in the 1970s. 

- I flew to Luang Prabang with Lao Airlines, and it was one of the shortest flights I've been on (less than an hour!). But upon arriving in Luang Prabang, my inDrive driver accidentally hit a speeding counterflowing motorist on the way to my hotel (motorist was alive, thank goodness). I felt sorry for the injured motorist, but also for my driver who was actually a very careful driver if not for the timing of things (he was in the right in the situation). This is actually an ultra summarized version of what happened, but yes I am fine although shocked and perhaps traumatized. HOWEVER, this was not how my whole stay in Luang Prabang looked like. I'm happy that things just got exponentially better after this accident.

The police drew this on the road as part of the police report. It was there even after several days. Talk about leaving your mark in Luang Prabang!

- After checking in at Golden Lotus Hotel, which is one of the many houses-turned-hotels in the main street of Luang Prabang, I just walked all around the place. The main street (Sisavangvong Road) is where most tourist spots in Luang Prabang are! Can't get any more convenient than that, right?! 

My hotel room. I swear I slept so comfortably for all three nights I stayed here.

As you can see, it looks like a house because it used to be one before being converted to a hotel.

- Right beside my hotel was Wat Mai Souvannaphumaram (also spelled as "Suwannaphumaham"). It was built in the late 1700s, and is one of the biggest temples in Luang Prabang. Located beside the Royal Palace, it was the royal family's temple.

See the four-tier roof.

So much gold.

Inside the main hall or "sim".

From outside.

- The Royal Palace in Luang Prabang has been converted to a National Museum since the communist government took over. The palace was built in 1904 right beside the Mekong River, and has French and Lao architectural styles. Photography is not allowed inside, but it does show the palace rooms and things used by the royalty in the past. The palace is also home to the Royal Ballet Theatre where people can buy tickets to watch the almost nightly show of the Lao version of the Ramayana (Phra Lak Phra Lam); I bought a ticket for the evening apart from visiting the actual palace; more about the performance later. 

Royal Ballet Theatre located at the side portion of the palace. 

Luang Prabang Royal Palace.

Haw Phra Bang, the temple that houses the Sinhlaese (so they say) Buddha statue that gave the city its name ("Prabang").

Haw Phra Bang from an elevated part across the street.

- Across the palace, one can find the stairway going up Mount Phousi (or Phousi Hill). Mount Phousi is home to several temples, but the most important of them all is That Chom Si, located at the hill's peak. It was built in the 1800s, and is reachable after climbing around 300 steps. To fully maximize my visit to the hill, I went up one way, and went down another way to see the other temples and shrines along the way.

Wat Pa Huak, built in the 1800s. Although it badly needs restoration, its shiny mosaic design can still be seen today. It stands at the mezzanine (??) level of the steps on the way up to the peak of Phousi Hill.

The building below is the Royal Palace, with the Mekong River and Laos' picturesque mountains at the back.

On top of the world!

This isn't the peak yet, just a photo stop!

The Avatar will save the world. (It's just a young monk haha.)

At That Chom Si, with three young monks (they appear shy here but they were SO TALKATIVE. We tried to speak to each other in a mix of Thai and Lao, since I don't speak Lao, and both languages are mutually intelligible. They wanted to take a photo with me.) 

Buddha's foot imprint, or so they say. (Try to see the foot-shaped mark.) 

Wat Siphoutthabat Thipparam ("Temple of Buddha's Footprint"), located at the foot of Phousi Hill's other entrance/exit. Built in 1851, it is an important temple that also serves as an educational center for young monks.

- After a late late late late lunch in the first cafe I saw after going down the hill, I visited yet another temple. Wat Pa Phai is hidden in a back alley, but it is also another long-standing temple, built probably in the 1600s. It lacks columns inside the hall, which is unusual for temples. The Buddha is also unusually placed in front of a wall, as most temples have a gallery behind the Buddha.

A young monk opening the temple for me - but also because they were about to set up for evening prayers at the same time.

See, no space behind the Buddha.

Wat Pa Phai.

- I had a stroll through the main street, seeing vendors starting to set up for the night market. I realized how the main street is used for many different purposes throughout the day. As a regular road, a night market, and also a pathway for Buddhist monks during morning offerings or "sai bat" (we'll get to this in the next blog!) 

Sisavangvong Road, pre-night market hours haha.

Love the almost-sunset rays.

Golden hourrrr.

- I got to rest and refresh for a bit at the hotel before attending the night show of Phra Lak Phra Lam at the Royal Palace. The show was around an hour long, and starts at the part where Sita gets kidnapped from the Forest of Dandaka until Rama rescuing Sita from the evil King Ravana with the help of Hanuman and the Kiskindan monkey-humans. 

Hanuman (one in white), or Hanoumane in Lao, about to embark on his journey to look for Sita and act as a spy.

King Ravana (Thotsakane in the local language) trying to tempt Sita (Nang Sida) as is has been trying to get her attention. Sira, being loyal to her husband Rama (Phra Lam), ignores Ravana.

Thotsakane and the rest of his men preparing for the final battle.

Royal Ballet Theatre Troupe.

- To fully recover from my morning accident, and to sort of celebrate an otherwise nice first day at Luang Prabang, I had dinner at Phan Boun Restaurant, a mezzanine-level restaurant that serves authentic Lao food. The food is slightly upscale but still casual, and I loved it so much I had dinner there every night until I left Luang Prabang!!

At Phan Boun Restaurant's outdoor seating. I don't usually like sitting outdoors, but the breeze was just calling out to me. The stars are not to celebrate Christmas, but traditional Lao lanterns. But yes, many people have pointed out their similarities to Philippine Christmas parols. (Made me miss the Philippines a teeny weeny bit.)

Feast for a king. This was a Luang Prabang sausage meal, accompanied by pink pork curry, sticky rice, seaweed sheets (kind of like a thicker nori, but flavored in a sweet-salty way), Lao salad, and banana slices in coconut milk. I also ordered a lemon soda with butterfly pea tea (which is a very Lao kind of tea/flower, known for its distinct blue-violet color.) 

I love you forever Phan Boun.

- The night market stretches a couple of blocks and occupies a part of the main road. I honestly enjoyed shopping here than in Bangkok because there was more variety in the things I could buy, whereas souvenir stores in Bangkok tend to sell the same elephant pants and shirt or inhalers. In the night market, I found things that were "touristy" (keychains, magnets, snow globes), traditional Lao woven or embroidered products, wood carvings, Hmong products like silver jewelry and hill-tribe embroidered products, accessories, and so on. Shopping in Bangkok markets used to be like this but doesn't seem like it anymore; I still like shopping in Bangkok but based on experience, it has become harder to look for more variety beyond elephant-printed things.

Night market!! (Also see the bright moon above!!)

Another side of the main street, not occupied by the night market.

- Luang Prabang is honestly a magical place (not including the accident) and the cool air especially at night made me feel too at home. I have no idea how it manages to balance the tourist bustle and its inherently quiet, spiritual, and royal feel; this makes Luang Prabang less overwhelming than how one may expect it to be as a tourist magnet. I saw, did, bought, and ate so many things on my first day in Luang Prabang, and it was just the start of many things to experience in this heritage city!   

** Check out my other adventures in Thailand and Laos here!

THAILAND:

Part 1: Wat Saket and Dog Cafe - here

Part 2: Kanchanaburi - here

Part 3: Maeklong Railway Market, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market - here

Part 4: Phetchaburi and Hua Hin - here

Part 5: Wat Paknam, Capybara Cafe, B Story Cafe, Madame Tussauds - here

Part 6: Chulalongkorn University - here

LAOS:   

Part 1 (Vientiane): Patuxai, Buddha Park, and Vientiane's Temples - here

Part 2 (Vientiane): Pha That Luang, Lao Art Museum - here

Part 4 (Luang Prabang): Kuang Si Waterfalls, Pak Ou caves - here 

Part 5 (Luang Prabang): Sai Bat, Wat Xieng Thong, and Other Temples - here

Part 6 (Luang Prabang / Bangkok): Sai Bat Again, Some Temples, Bangkok Jodd Fairs - here