The Land of Shoes and Puto: Marikina City!

- Nov. 26, 2021, Friday.

- I've always been curious about Marikina City ever since I studied about it when I was young. In my life, I've been there only 7 times (not including this trip), and most of my trips were related to school or work. It's just too far from where I live. Marikina is located in the northeastern part of Metro Manila, bordering the province of Rizal. Culturally speaking, I've always known that it was famous for being the "Shoe Capital" of the Philippines, but nothing else. Finally, after years and years, I had the opportunity to visit Marikina!

- I arrived early in the morning since I wanted to avoid the traffic that has slowly been making a comeback. The government recently announced the loosening up of alert levels in many parts of the country, and many people have started going out once more. Marikina is accessible via the Santolan LRT 2 Station, unless you prefer taking other modes of public transport. I took a Grab car though since I think it's safer given the pandemic, and it's more convenient (though not for my wallet due to the distance from my house.) Marikina was so far it honestly felt like going abroad (which I miss, and not sure if I'll be able to do anytime soon. Pandemic go away please.)

- The first place in my to-go list is perhaps Marikina's most famous landmark: the Marikina Shoe Museum. Although opened in 2001, the house that serves as the museum's home was built in the 1860s as a Spanish arsenal. The museum is located in the city center, around a block away from the City Hall, and close to most of the tourist sites. (Entrance fee is currently 50 pesos.)

A fallen acacia tree.

There you go.

I like the look of this "house" (it was an arsenal, rather than a house.)

- This one-room museum is home to shoes from various cultures, designers, and well-known people. It also shows the tools used to make shoes.

Shoes from India, the Netherlands and more!!

Shoes by a local brand called Risque. The tarsier scared me I thought there was a mouse.

The museum interior. (See the tower of shoes beside me!!)

With a giant shoe. Also, I feel my aging lower back will be regretting this squat shot.

Sewing machine used for making shoes.

More Asian shoes.

Shoes owned by various politicians and celebrities.

Currently their latest acquisition. A pair of golden shoes from Angel Locsin, given in 2018.

From the late Dolphy.

Shoes once owned by renowned ballerina, Liza Macuja-Elizalde.

- The mezzanine level is a special area for shoes that once belonged to former first lady Imelda Marcos. An icon (whether you like her or not) known for having a love affair with shoes, Imelda Marcos is believed to own more than 3000 pairs of shoes in her collection. Around 250 pairs were personally donated by her to the museum.

Clothes owned by former president Ferdinand Marcos and former first lady Imelda Marcos.

Some of the 250 pairs of shoes from Imelda Marcos, arranged by color.

A photo of when Imelda Marcos met Indira Gandhi in the 1980s.

It's nice to have chances to take photos like these - especially when you're the only one inside the whole museum!!

- Across the street from the Shoe Museum is Our Lady of the Abandoned Church. It is a Baroque-style church from 1572 and is still being used today. As much as I wanted to take photos with the nice church, there were just too many cars parked right outside the church. I did take a quite moment inside the church.

Our Lady of the Abandoned Church.

Church interior.

- Beside the church and right behind the Shoe Museum is the Kapitan Moy Residence. Kapitan Moy, the nickname of Don Laureano Guevara, was the pioneer of the Marikina shoe industry in the mid-1800s. This old two-story house use to be both his residence (second floor) and a shoe factory (ground floor). The shoe industry in Marikina, as a summary, mainly begun because Kapitan Moy did not want to go to Manila just to have his shoes repaired. Back then, most shoemakers and shoe repairers were located within Binondo and Quiapo. Today, Kapitan Moy's house has been converted into a restaurant and event's place. I had lunch at Cafe Kapitan Restaurant, which mainly serves western food.

Kapitan Moy Residence.

It was quite difficult to get a photo of the whole house.

There were stairs at the side.

An old well in the middle of the restaurant. (Also, was too hungry and didn't take a photo of my sizzling burger steak for lunch. It wasn't out of the ordinary so it's fine.)

Photos from way back when.

A portrait of Kapitan Moy.

- Full from lunch, I had a short walk to Puto Avenue. It isn't a real street name, but rather a name given to the row of shops along J.P. Rizal St. that sell Marikina-made puto (rice cakes) and other related delicacies. Puto Avenue is right beside/south of the Shoe Museum. (The Shoe Museum is between Puto Avenue and the Kapitan Moy Residence.) The best store to buy puto is from Aling Remy's Puto and Kutsinta. Aling Remy, who started selling puto and kutsinta in 1930, was said to start the trend of selling puto in the area. Puto from Marikina is described to be a mix between puto and kutsinta. It is chewy, and made from fine rice flour. However, there are other kinds of Marikina puto as well, such as the bigger and fluffier puto, which is less sweet and airier than the small chewy ones.

Look for this store at the corner. There were a couple of puto stores that aren't in the picture too. 

Oh right, apart from puto, they also sell this meat loaf called "Everlasting" since it has a long shelf life. It is a meat loaf, like embutido, and has carrots, eggs, and other vegetables. Unlike the common embutido which is cylindrical, Everlastings are normally shaped like a leche flan since they're usually cooked in the same kind of container (llanera.)

- My final "big mission" for the day was to find myself a pair of Marikina shoes. I thought of buying ready-made ones as custom-made shoes would surely cost me more and I feel it would be necessary for me to go back to Marikina for a couple of fittings (which isn't too practical for me because of where I live.)

- I walked towards the City Hall, as I was told that there were some stores that sell Marikina-made shoes. I did find a couple but decided to buy directly from one of the best shoemakers - Tatay Oly. From the city center I rode a tricycle to Agricultores Street to pay him a visit. (You may input "Tatay Oly Shoes" or "Tatay Oly Shoeshop" in any online map, and make sure it tells you to go to Agricultores Street.) This is his house and workshop. He normally makes custom leather shoes, but he does sell a limited number of ready-made shoes (click here for their Facebook page, and perhaps you may communicate with them there). 

Found this in front of the City Hall.

Passed by the Marikina Cityhood Park before finding myself a tricycle to Tatay Oly.

The humble home and workshop of Marikina's pride, Tatay Oly. 

- Why did I look for Tatay Oly out of all the world-class shoemakers? Mr. Rolando Santos, also known as "Tatay Oly," rose to fame when he made shoes for the current president. Whether you like the current president of not isn't the point - but what's important is how this shoemaker can make shoes! One day, Tatay Oly decided to make shoes for the president and started estimating his shoe size just by watching him on television and looking at images of the president. After making a pair of leather shoes, his wife tried contacting the Malacanang Palace and got a response. They finally had a courtesy call to the palace and offered the shoes to the president - it was a fit that brought Cinderella and her shoe to shame!! (OK I was being overly dramatic there, but you get the point. The shoe fit - and he only "guesstimated" the president's shoe size without ever meeting the president before.) The president had since rewarded Tatay Oly and had more shoes made. 

Tatay Oly with the current president, as well as certificates presented to him by the president.

- Fortunately, Tatay Oly was home, and had shoes that were my size! I actually didn't like shoes with laces but I just fell in love with the design. Each pair of good leather shoes was worth 1000pesos, and the same kind of shoes would be worth 3 or 4 times as much in malls! (I know, I checked!) I also normally don't like leather shoes because they are heavy and they sometimes hurt my big feet. However, when I fit the shoes I felt they were made especially for me! I was so happy not only with the design and the fit (not to mention the price), that I bought two pairs - same design, just in black and brown! (By the way, I am writing this blog, weeks after my Marikina trip and have worn my Marikina shoes out. They're the most comfortable formal leather shoes I've worn in my life!!)

With Tatay Oly himself!!

- After saying goodbye to Tatay Oly and his wife, I rode a trike further north to Luyong Restaurant for some take away food. Opened in the 1950s, Luyong is one of the old-time Chinese restaurants that have stayed in the hearts and minds of  Marikina residents. They serve home-cooked Chinese food perfect for all occasions. It actually reminded me of Sincerity Restaurant in Binondo.

Luyong.

- Luyong was recommended to my be a friend living in Marikina. She spoke highly of Luyong so I thought it'd be nice to get some food for me and my folks to try. And yes, not only does the restaurant remind me of Sincerity, but also the food. They're not exactly the same in terms of cooking style, but the both have that "homey" vibe and taste.

Inside Luyong.

- I rode back to the city center and spent a good amount of time trying to book a Grab car home. My Globe had signal but the mobile data wasn't powerful enough (?) to load Grab. I had to take a cab to somewhere in Katipunan where my mobile data was sure to be fine, and then booked a Grab home. (Directly taking a cab from Marikina to my house seemed too far, hence, had to do this.) 

- Marikina is a charming city and unfortunately I did not have enough time (or energy) to explore more of Marikina. At the very least I was able to do the basic must-sees and must-dos. It was truly nice to be able to rediscover "one's backyard" while traffic still hasn't gone back to pre-pandemic madness, and while long-distance travels (such as international travel) are not yet ideal. However, it would have been nice to go around Marikina without a pandemic looming. I heard that they're having the annual Shoe Bazaar again this year after a one-year hiatus because of the pandemic. They normally hold it at the Freedom Park in front of the City Hall. I have a feeling that my next visit to Marikina won't be too far away!! 

**UPDATE: Dec. 8, 2021, Wednesday.

- I went back to get a few pairs of shoes at the Marikina Shoe Bazaar. The prices are unbelievable, and so is the quality of the shoes there (I mean this in a very, VERY good way!!) I had to control myself because I wanted to buy the whole bazaar. I also had to quickly book a Grab car home before I spend....an unbelievable amount of money for an unbelievable amount of shoes HAHA.

Welcome to Marikina HAHA.

This would be an amazing car to drive!!