Hanoi Hangout (Part 4): The Luring Scent of the Perfume Pagoda

- Oct. 30, 2017, Monday.

- Day trips from downtown Hanoi are very possible (via any of the travel agencies around the downtown, or through the hotel/hostel as it may be a bit challenging to go on your own) and my friend Genevieve and I just got back from a long one in Halong Bay (see Part 3 here). Day 4 four of our 5 day Hanoi trip was a Monday, and since most tourist spots in are closed on Monday - and this is not only applicable in Hanoi - we scheduled another day trip outside the downtown area. This time, our agenda for the day is a trip to the Perfume Pagoda or "Chua Huong". This is actually a large temple complex (i.e. a compound full of temples) in the southern Hanoi district of My Duc. Though this is still part of Hanoi City, it is around 2 hours away from the downtown away by car. (At least it's half the travel time compared to Halong Bay the day before!!) Just a warning, while this place is a good tourist and religious spot, it is not for those who get "temple sick" easily. Fortunately, Genevieve and I are fans of temples. Also, this place is best for those who do not have problems walking and moving around; I will explain in a bit why this is so.

- Just like our Halong Bay day trip, we booked our Perfume Pagoda day trip through our awesome hostel, Luxury Backpackers. Although the tour was slightly expensive compared to booking directly from one of the travel agencies around Hoan Kiem Lake, it was more convenient especially in terms of coordination and logistics.

- We were fetched from our hostel that chilly autumn morning. It was the first day that became quite cold, though the previous days were quite breezy. I was asked by our hostel staff to wear something thicker, or at least long-sleeved, but knowing me, I wanted to soak myself in the cold autumn ambiance. Little did I know that it would become very sunny later that day, and my decision to stick to my short-sleeved shirt was victorious.

- After two hours, we arrived at the parking area we would get off. From there, all tourists would ride a boat to the foot of the mountain/hill where the temple complex is. The slow boat ride lasts an hour, and so it may be difficult for people who need special assistance. After docking, we first had lunch at one of the restaurants in the area. Fortunately, it wasn't festival season (which is around February,) so the temple complex is almost empty, except for some tourists here and there.

I swear to God this is what he was wearing the whole day. It was the first time another tourist "out-costumed" me. Also, I saw him in downtown Hanoi the day after and he was still wearing a pirate outfit - a whole different getup. Well, at least this dude knows his style. I should've talked to him and had a photoshoot with this awesome fella.

Moana vibes, only it's not an ocean but a river.

Cone-heads, presenting me and our boat's rower.

A memorial at the left.

More memorials.

Courtesy of our tour guide.

Red bridge with Buddhist symbols.

Another memorial on the way to lunch.

I'm on an adventure.

I know that snakes and scorpions soaked in alcohol is a popular beverage in Southeast Asia, but this aquarium tank with alcohol not only had snakes and scorpions, but also had ferrets (??), rodents, giant lizards, birds, and the like. Must be one....potent....drink??

- After lunch, we took the cable car to the entrance of the Huong Tich Cave, which is one of two main attractions of the Perfume Pagoda complex. Normally, people would walk from the foot of the hill/mountain to the top, which normally takes around 30 minutes to an hour. However, it might be better to pay a little extra, have a bit of comfort, and behold a scenic view of the mountains and various pagodas of the temple complex. From top of the mountain, visitors would need to go down a long flight of stairs to enter the cave (again, can be difficult for those needing special assistance.) This cave has been used as a religious site for over 2 millennia, and through the years, more religious paraphernalia were enshrined or left in the holy cave. The name "Perfume Pagoda" is actually a not-so-direct translation of complex's Sino-Vietnamese name "Chua Huong," which means "Fragrant Temple." Upon visiting Huong Tich Cave, one would understand why - scented incense sticks are left to burn, and this is done regularly. This gives the temple its fragrant, and as far as I'm concerned, soothing aroma. Apart from regular religious purposes, this temple is also visited by couples who want to have children. They would give offerings to the gods to, well, hope that the gods will grant them children.

Inside the cable car. Thanks to the Greek family who offered to take our photo.

Entrance to Huong Tich Cave.

If you could only smell the fragrance of the incense!!

The first altar you'll see.

Bell.

Written by a Vietnamese king who hailed the cave/temple as one of the best.

A Vietnamese couple who was part of our tour group; I think their main purpose was to give offerings and wish for a child.

There are more altars at the back!!

Many gods.

Similar rock/cave formations as the ones around Halong Bay.

A stalactite and stalagmite that have combined to become a pillar.

This is just half the flight of stairs. The other half is at the side, hidden behind the trees.

Buddha-like rock formations.

- From the Huong Tich Cave, we took the cable car downhill, and went to another temple closer to the foot of the mountain. This temple is called Thien Tru Pagoda, or "Heaven's Kitchen Pagoda." This is so called because the mountains look like busy chefs (talk about imagination.) Fortunately we were able to go around the temple in a leisurely manner as we did not have to brave our way through the crowds like how it would've been like had we gone to this temple during the festival season. I actually remembered the time when we had to do something like this during festival season in Pura Besakih, or "Mother Temple" when I went to Bali, Indonesia with some of my best friends a few years back (click here to see).

Entrance to "Heaven's Kitchen."

From the inside.

Genevieve, me, and my tripod.

A bit of stretching is nice.

The temple itself.

Plenty of stupas and pagodas.

I think this is another memorial area?

Colors of the elements.

The height of that incense burner.

Gazebo pagoda.

A typical Vietnamese photo.

- We later took another hour-long boat ride back to the parking area and rode the van for two more hours until we reached downtown Hanoi. We arrived around 6:30pm, which is around 2 hours earlier than the Halong Bay day trip. We spent the rest of the night going around the streets near us for more food and shopping (around Hang Gai area and the Hoan Kiem Lake area.)

Taken by one of our tourmates from the other boat.

Row row row your boat.

A pagoda on top of the hill.

- We went back to the hostel earlier that night so we could rest well from our two consecutive day trips from downtown Hanoi. We also needed more time to pack our bags as we would be enjoying our last day in the historical city of Hanoi before rushing to the airport in the evening. Although we had only a day more left, there were still important things in Hanoi that we had to cover!! (Please don't forget to read Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here, and Part 5 here!!)