Italy by Rail - North to South (Part 1): Milan Essentials and Tips on Safety in Italy!!

- December 20, 2017, Wednesday.

- FINALLY, ITALY!!!! After a long long wait, I was finally in Italy!! I'm not totally inclined to European things, but if there is a country that's on top of my must-go-place in Europe, it's definitely Italy. I've always loved Italian food, adored the Italian language, and at some point in my life, hooked on Roman mythology (but I gave up after I got confused with all the stories.) I do understand that ancient Roman culture owed a big part of itself to the ancient Greek civilization (click here, here, and here for my trip to Greece a few years back,) but I was exposed to Italy far earlier than I was with Greece (I do love Greece and its rich cultures too.)

- Following my 4 days in Paris (see Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here,  Part 4 here) I had an early flight to Milan (Linate Airport/LIN) from Paris (Charles de Gaulle Airport/CDG). I specified the airports since there are multiple airports in both cities. From Paris CDG to Milan LIN took around an hour; it didn't take much time since Milan is a northern city, close to France. We flew with Alitalia, the flag carrier of Italy. I decided to book our plane tickets to Linate Airport instead of the usual Malpensa Airport, since Linate Airport was closer to the city (around 10-15 minutes by bus or cab, with regular traffic.) I also booked the earliest flight for the day, so we wouldn't be wasting previous explorin' time. From the airport, we took a cab for a scenic drive across Milan until we reached Hotel Michelangelo. I found this hotel great because of its room size, and more importantly, it's right across Milano Centrale, the main train station of Milan.

- We hastily left our stuff in our room, and had breakfast at one of the nearby cafes. It was there that I learned that in Italy, cafes have two areas: the bar where people stand and eat, and the tables where people sit and eat. Now this may seem common sense, but this matters a lot in Italy: the price differs for the same dish/beverage depending if you wish to stand or sit. The lower price in the menu is for those who wish to stand, and the more expensive price is when people decide to eat (the added cost is some sort of "table service" fee.)

- After having an amazing breakfast (and in Italy, food is usually great everywhere you go,) we hopped on the metro from the Milano Centrale metro stop to Sant' Ambrogio to visit la Basilica di Sant' Ambrogio. (And yes, Milano Centrale is a train hub, so it has the regular metro trains, as well as platforms for the long-distance trains.) In Milan, there are tourist transportation cards that offer unlimited rides on metros, buses, and trams good for 1, 2, or 3 days. However, since we won't be using the transpotation that much, buying these cards would not be worth it. Like in Paris, we instead bought single-journey tickets.

- The Basilica of Sant' Ambrogio (Church of Saint Ambrose,) is perhaps one of Milan's most ancient churches that definitely stood the test of time - more or less. It was built in the mid-3rd century AD, and built by Saint Ambrose himself. However, the church was almost completely destroyed during World War II due to Allied bombings. Eventually, it was rebuilt, and a lot of original mosaics, carvings, and statues are still preserved/on display in the church.

I like how the church looks. For some reason, it looks simple, but I find it charming.

One of the original mosaics.

Other things that were saved from the Allied bombings in the 1940s.

The bell tower.

This is a bigger mosaic.

- When we arrived there, there was a mass going on, but we were allowed to quietly go around the church and observe. It was also my first time to see a European mass, and boy did the church choir open the heavens with their majestic and glorious voices!!

Inside the church. 

Pope-like priests wearing a lot of gold!!

Imagine what it could have looked like had it not been bombed by the Allied forces.

- From the church, we walked along Via G. Carducci (Carducci Street), which is a long street right outside the basilica, and turned right once we reached the intersection of Carducci and Corso Magenta. Around that area, one can find Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monasterio Maggiore. Although it does not look much on the outside, this is surely a must-see church/monastery in Milan. The church and monastery were built in the early 1500s, and was a female convent. The church/monastery is under the Byzantine Rite, which means a lot of shining gold paint (which is one of the things I adore about Byzantine-style art.) The church is right beside an archaeological museum that used to be the monastery part of the structure. However, we did not go inside the archaeological museum since we would be visiting a larger and more prominent one in Naples. (If going to this church directly, it is close to Cadorna metro station.)

The interior of this church is a holy rainbow.

I hope more people come to visit this church.

The hall of nuns, with the prized organ.

So apparently, Noah saved unicorns too. :|:|:|:|

Still can't get over this church.

All those things....inside this humble facade.

- While walking to our next destination, we wondered why Milan was far colder than Paris, around 2 degrees (and it was around 4 or 6 usually in Paris,) even if Milan was farther south than Paris. However, being a fan of the cold weather, I felt that the temperature made walking outside more bearable than say during summer.

- We eventually reached Castello Sforzesco (Sforza Castle,) which is right outside Cairoli (in front), Cadorna (southwestern side of the castle) and Lanza (northeastern side) metro stations. The castle was built in the 15th century for the duke of Milan. Today, visiting the castle itself is free, BUT, visitors need to buy tickets to see the Sforza Castle Museums - a series of galleries that occupy the interior of the castle. (The castle also has a nice little restaurant where we had lunch.)

I always always love visiting castles.

It looks like those from a child's fairy tale book.

The Ronandini Pieta, the second Pieta Michelangelo worked on after the more famous one currently in the Vatican City.

Big tapestries are one of my fancies too.

It has always fascinated my how people can make painting-like images through weaving.

Armor.

Sarcophagi.

Such detail just for a fireplace bellow.

Beauty and the Beast anyone? (Yes, I know it's French.)

Found the Philippines in one of the old maps being exhibited.

I'm not usually a big fan of paintings but I really really loved this one. Haha. It's called "Singer at the Spinet."

How a violin is made.

I play the violin, but it's always a struggle for my fat fingers to move around the narrow fingerboard.

People in the old days are quite....hmm....creative in making instruments. (Not sure how to play this eccentric instrument.)

Mniature pianos.

Would have loved to play this!!

It looks real, but it's just a work of art!!

- Before leaving, I took a little stroll at the Sempione Park behind the castle to see the Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace.) Do note that it was a rather long stroll from the castle, longer than I imagined, since the paths of the park wind like Italian spaghetti. Well, after all, Sempione Park is the biggest park in Milan, being opened in the late 1800s.

This somehow reminds me of the Brandenburg Gate in Germany. (I haven't been to Germany though.) 

A Rai tower!! (Rai is the national public broadcasting company of Italy.)

The arch.

The gallery. (See that black Napoleon statue in the middle?)

- We left the palace afterwards and had a 10-15-minute stroll to Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery;) the closest metro stop is Lanza metro station, but it still needs a bit of walk. Lanza metro station, as mentioned above, is located outside Castelo Sforzesco's northeastern side. The gallery was opened in the mid 1700s and is still currently home to one of Italy's biggest collection of paintings. I've mentioned quite a few times in my previous entries that I am not the biggest fan of paintings (as I'm more of a sculptures guy), although the paintings by Caravaggio caught my attention because of his skillful use of chiaroscuro (use of and contrasts between light and dark in paintings.)

St. Mark preaching in Alexandria, Egypt, by Gentile and Giovanni Bellini, 1500s. This was one huge painting!!

A statue of Napoleon. (It's the same statue as the one in the courtyard.)

Preserving art.

Supper at Emmaus, by Caravaggio, 1600s.

Last Supper, by Rubens, 1600s.

The most sought after painting: The Kiss, by Hayez, 1800s.

- After I went around the gallery (as my family opted to sit this one out,) we rode the metro at Montenapoleone metro stop to go to the Duomo metro station. It is just one station away, and to be honest it was less than a kilometer between Pinacoteca di Brera and the Duomo area, by my mom gradually found it hard to walk from all the walking we did in the afternoon.

- The Duomo metro station is perhaps the most touristy metro station in Milan, as it is where the city's main cathedral stands - Duomo di Milano (Milan Cathedral) - as well as other significant structures. (More on that in a succeeding part.) However, we were there just to see the oldest mall in Italy, called Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II. The mall was established in the mid 1800s, and houses several luxury brands. It was named after the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emmanuele II. When you are inside the Galleria, look for the mosaic bull on the floor near the center/"intersection" if the cross-shaped mall (you can ask any personnel, police, or guard for "il toro," which means "the bull.") It is said that when you put your right heel on the bull's testicles and spin backward three times without lifting your heel, you will ward off bad luck. This superstitious belief comes from the origins of the mall itself. Its architect fell to his death on the spot where the mosaic bull currently is; doing the act I mentioned above is supposed to make people avoid going through the same kind of bad luck. Apparently I remembered it wrong, and my almost bad luck did not come too soon.

Duomo di Milano during the "golden hour."

Italian flag and the palace.

Arch-like entrance to Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II.

Its prized glass dome.

My heel on the bull's testicle, but spun around the wrong way. Boo.

A small plaza at the back of the mall.

Leonardo da Vinci's statue.

Back entrance.

Santa's early this year!!

Duomo di Milano just after sunset.

- Italy is known for both good and bad things. Good things include nice places and scrumptious food among other things, while bad things would include having a lot (A LOT) of pickpockets and scammers. I do understand that pickpockets, scammers, and other kinds of criminals exist in any city or country anywhere in the world, and that we all should be vigilant when traveling or even just going out of the house (regardless of which city you live in), but the situation in Italy speaks for itself when you are warned about pickpockets and scammers by wall posters, electronic reminders in train ticket machines, or by the most police and shopkeepers. Outside the Duomo di Milano, for instance, there will be people who will give "free" friendship bracelets or bird seeds (to feed the pigeons that flock the plaza outside the church) but will force you to give money once you accept their offer. They are A TON of them around the plaza outside the church, and they may even hang out by the Duomo metro station entrances/exits. Here's a tip: NEVER ACCEPT THEIR OFFER AT ALL COSTS. Sometimes, a firm no will make them go away, but for the more persistent ones, a bit more sass is needed. In my case, I encountered a particularly persistent guy who just won't leave me alone. I kept saying "no" and that I did not want his "free" bracelets, but he kept as asking me "why" I did not want his bracelets. What made him go away was when I finally showed my Italian sass: when he asked me again why I didn't want his bracelets, I told him "perche io non voglio!!" (Read as "per-keh iyo non vo-lio.") It was just an Italian translation of "because I don't want." He probably was a bit too surprised for an English-speaking Chinese dude to suddenly speak Italian. Hey, my Italian is far from perfect, but my basic survival Italian was more than enough to get by.

- My real (almost) bad luck, however, happened inside the train on the way back to our hotel. To summarize, my messenger bag's front pocket got opened by pickpockets while I was looking at the train stations to see that my family and I get off at the right station. (Damn it, I should've spun around the bull's testicles at the Galleria the right way!!) Fortunately, nothing got stolen, but it did make me more alert and careful of my things after that day; it was an even more traumatic event than it should have been because my phone just got stolen by a pickpocket here in Manila a couple of months ago. Going back to what happened in Italy, the worse thing about it was I got to identify and even do eye contact with my pickpockets - two small girls; the younger one was around 10 or 11, and the older one was around 12 or 13. As in many places in the world, these pickpockets are often the ones we suspect the least. I have friends who were also with their families in Italy during the holidays, and they experienced almost the same situation as I did. In their case, it was a bigger pickpocket group made up of grannies and little girls. Anyway, I didn't tell anyone in the family about this since they panic quite easily (and they were with me in the train the whole time it happened!), and nothing like that happened anymore during the rest of my stay in Italy. Thank God.   

- Despite what happened during my first day in Italy, I was still able to appreciate Milan and definitely looked forward to more (non-sketchy) experiences in Italy. After all, Italy still remains to be one of my favorite countries in Europe. Next stop, a day trip to Venice!!

- Please don't forget to ready about my other Eurotrip adventures during the holidays here:

France: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here Part 4 here!!

Italy: Part 2 here, Part 3 here, Part 4 here, Part 5 here, Part 6 here, Part 7 here, Part 8 here, and Part 9 here!!