(Part 2) A Little Paradise in Mindanao: Lake Sebu's Lotus-Filled Lakes, 7 Falls, and Cultural Centers

- November 2, 2018, Friday.

- Lake Sebu in South Cotabato is a little piece of paradise in Mindanao. It is not only blessed with natural wonders, but it is also rich in culture - the T'boli culture. Yes, again, there are safe places in Mindanao worth visiting, far from the places deemed "dangerous" by the media. My first day in Lake Sebu (click here for Part 1) was just an introduction to the beauty of Lake Sebu.

- Day 2 in Lake Sebu started with an early walk (around 6am) with my driver-guide Richelle to the banks of Lake Sebu at the back of my hotel for a morning boat ride. Since my guide's boatman friend was drunk from the night before, my guide took the liberty of "borrowing" our boatman's boat and rowing the boat himself (I swear my guide is multi-talented - more about this later.) The traditional canoe/boat is called an "owong." Early morning canoe/boat rides are a thing in Lake Sebu since the three lakes of Lake Sebu - Lake Sebu, Lake Seloton, and Lake Lahit - are all filled with naturally-growing lotus flowers that only bloom from early morning until mid-morning. The are surely in full bloom around 5:30AM to around 7AM.

Those pink things are the lotuses.

What a view!!

- My guide Richelle was not only a good boatsman but I found out that he was a great photographer too. I did need a little bit of directing, but there were many perfect or nearly-perfect shots. He also rowed the boat in different directions so we could play with light and shadows (yes, he suggested this - who am I to complain, right??) Richelle also told me that although the lotus flowers have been growing here naturally, the idea of rowing tourists around these flowers was a more recent development. This would give income to Lake Sebu's boatsmen. The boat ride would cost around 200php.

Lotus flowers in full bloom.

Of course I could not row an owong without my full T'boli garb.

My guide Richelle rowed the boat at a different angle so we can play with lights and shadows.

This is my guide-and-driver Richelle. He is a licensed guide by the tourism center. Please do hire him if you go to Lake Sebu. His mobile number is 0905-871-1491. He is amazing!! He can tell you stuff about Lake Sebu, take awesome photos (with tips on the best angles or photoshoot locations in some tourist spots), and take you anywhere you want to go!! 

Hints of color.

The flowers should stay in the water. Please do not pick the lotus flowers when you're there. :) :) :) :)

- After around an hour in the lake, I had my complimentary breakfast at my hotel, Punta Isla Resort. I also had to do a costume change, not only for the photos, but because I was sweating the whole morning from the sun.

While waiting for my breakfast at Punta Isla. That is Lake Sebu by the way.

As part of my breakfast, I tried their minty malungay and ginger ice creams. Didn't like the minty malungay that much since all I could taste was the mint. The ginger one was divine though.

- I met Richelle after almost an hour, and headed to another natural wonder and popular tourist spot of Lake Sebu: the 7 Falls. As early as now I'd like to tell you that seeing all 7 waterfalls, while not impossible, is extremely difficult. The most accessible ones are Falls 1 and 2 (Hikong Alo and Hikong Bente). Some tourists get to see Falls 5 (Hikong Ukol) usually by whizzing through the highest zipling in Southeast Asia, and after a short trek from Falls 5 is Falls 7 (Hikong Tonok). Falls 3 (Hikong B'lebel,) 4 (Hikong Lowig), and 6 (Hikong K'fo-i), according to my guide, are quite difficult to reach and would need a specialized guide who knows his way around the jungles of the mountain where the falls are located. Pathways to these three waterfalls are also not defined, so it is not advisable for tourists to see them especially if they're on their own. In some spots, people can also rent a T'boli costume for 50php. One such place is the bridge facing Falls 1.

Falls 1 or Hikong Alo, hidden in the sunlight. It is the widest among the 7 falls.

The is a bridge near Hikong Alo and you can rent a full T'boli gard for just 50 pesos!!

- My guide drove downhill to Falls 2 as it was faster than trekking a few hundred steps down. When we got to Falls 2, I saw that it was rather difficult to take a decent photo of the falls. Falls 2 is named "Hikong Bente" which means "The Immeasurable Falls" because while it is the narrowest falls, it is the highest. This means that the water from the falls creates more impact when hitting the river below, making the surrounding area quite misty. Richelle told me that since we were not in a hurry, we can wait for the clouds to partly cover the sun so the waterfalls can reveal itself. Trusting him, I agreed (and I did want a fantastic shot of the falls,) and when the clouds did cover the sun, just like the magic, the waterfalls appeared from nowhere!!

View of Falls 2 from the higher part of the mountain.

This is Falls 2, hidden behind the rays of the sun and the mist it created by itself.

Sedimentary rocks.

I love this shot so much. I know it doesn't show Falls 2, but the light and shadow, and the knowledge that Falls 2 is there in the photo "somewhere" creates the mysterious and other-worldly effect.

THANK YOU CLOUDS FOR SHOWING US FALLS 2!!

By the way, I am wearing a "kegal seli," which is an embroidered vest with T'boli traditional symbols.

- Before leaving the falls, I go to shop in some of the many souvenir stalls around the waterfalls. The prices of the souvenirs there are quite reasonable, pretty much the same price as in other souvenir stores in Lake Sebu. The souvenirs are quite varied too. (Oh yeah, I didn't do the zipline because I don't like heights and I was scared of things - like my shoes - falling out.)

View of Falls 2 again from some of the nearby souvenir stores.

I need a drink.

- After going around the falls, I was driven to the Lang Dulay Weaving Center. Lang Dulay is the name of a master weaver, who happens to be a princess also, who received the National Living Treasures Award (Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan,) which is given by the Philippine government. She is known for weaving the T'boli's most sought-after textile called "t'nalak." Lang Dulay, however, passed away in 2015, and now the Dulay household is headed by her daughter-in-law, Sebulan Dulay. The whole Dulay family knows how to weave, both men and women, as it is their family's legacy; the women, however, are usually the ones who weave in the T'boli community.

You'll see this sign.

Their humble workplace (The photos are Lang Dulay's, and the lady seated is her daughter-in-law, Sebulan Dulay.)

Their fine t'nalak (please buy from them!!)

Lang Dulay.

Sebulan Dulay, and Ms. Josephine Malanaw.

- While spending time in the Dulay weaving center, I was told how they make t'nalak. The get some abaca, dry, turn them into fiber. After that, they place it on a loom so they can tie the designs which were usually thought of by the weaver through dreams. This was how the T'bolis were came to be known as "dream weavers." Next, they cook the fiber in dye - black and red - and then weave the design. One of Lang Dulay's students who was married into the family, Ms. Josephine Malanaw, told me that 5 meters of t'nalak would take around 2-3 months to finish, and possibly longer if the designs are more complex. The designs that the weavers get from their dreams are usually based on things around them, such as palm leaves, crabs, and fruits. Also, I was told that they prefer to weave in the morning when the sun is not too hot, because abaca fibers will snap easily if it's too hot.

- Speaking of dying, the three colors of the t'nalak - red, black, and its natural almost-white color - have meanings. Black symbolizes the soil where all life comes from, red symbolizes humanity (blood,) and white symbolizes the spirit of the abaca named Fu Dalu. The T'boli people are mostly Catholics now, but they still have retained the belief that Fu Dalu is just around them, and especially blesses the weavers of t'nalak. Because of this belief, t'nalak cannot be fused as footwear or as carpets, or anything that involves stepping on the t'nalak, because this is a great disrespect for Fu Dalu. I was told however, that apart from these restrictions, t'nalak can be used for anything: from clothes to table runners.

Watching Sebulan Dulay tie knots on the abaca fiber to make the design.

- After dying and weaving, they soften the cloth by pounding on it, and finally, they shine the fabric using a cowrie shell that they get from the sea. Mr. Charlie Dulay, one of the grandchildren of Lang Dulay, not only taught me how to shine the fabric, but he was kind enough to let me do it too. I was scared because I did not want to destroy their delicate t'nalak. (Fortunately, I didn't.)

Using a cowrie shell to shine the t'nalak. 

That's the shell at the end of the wooden contraption.

Done like a real T'boli.

I had to do it with supervision. (Also, do you see that small donation box? I hope you do contribute when you visit, especially if you have no intention of buying anything. Most tourist go to them and talk to them or learn from them, and the family does not ask for any payment. Donating is your way of helping them, and better, of course, if you buy their t'nalak to support their industry.)

Ms. Josephine weaving the design.

- Later on, I was brought outside to see how they harvest abaca and turn them into fiber at the Lang Dulay Memorial Park. Lang Dulay's tomb is also located there. Finally, I went to their gift shop. I was not able to buy t'nalak from them since they sell their t'nalak by rolls, and it's quite hard to find people outside Lake Sebu who can properly cut and sew t'nalak into garments. The t'nalak's texture is not like any normal cloth, as it is coarser and thicker. However, just to help their family out, I left some money at the donation box, and I bought a T'boli head scarf and a beaded few accessories from them.

Abaca turned into fiber after drying.

Where t'nalak comes from: the abaca plant.

- To end my morning, I had a bit of quiet time at the Divine Mercy Retreat House. Visitors need not stay there despite having "retreat house" in its name. Visitors can simply go up the stairs and pray to the saints or to the big Jesus Christ, or in the small chapel up the stairs beside the giant Jesus Christ statue. Candles for specific purposes/wishes can also be purchased at the entrance and lit outside the chapel. There is no entrance fee. Also, while photography is allowed, wacky or funny poses, especially offensive poses, are not allowed. For those wearing shorts, they will be given a sarong to wear as respect for the solemnity of the place.

Divine Mercy. (Time to be a good Catholic huhu.)

Let it shine, Jesus Christ.

The view from up the hill was just like the Garden of Eden. (And I am really pushing it with these Biblical references.)

- After praying, Richelle whizzed me back to Punta Isla, which was around 20 minutes away downhill, so I can have lunch and change into another set of clothes. (Yes, I sweat too much.) I ate quickly and watched the bead crafters outside my hotel as I waited for Richelle to fetch me for my afternoon itinerary. (I was in such a hurry that I wasn't able to take a photo of my "sisig na tilapia.")

They can make bead necklaces in a day. That's how fast the work considering how many tiny beads they have to string together, and the complexity of the designs of the necklaces.

- We went again to the School of Living Tradition (SLT) after the Kaufman Family which I met the day prior invited me to join them since they would be having an outreach activity with the T'boli kids at the SLT. (In Part 1, click here, I saw them doing an outreach with COWHED.) Although I was a bit late and the Kaufman Family was about to leave when I got to the SLT, I was able to see the art project that that T'boli kids did, and I was able to have some time to talk to Ms. Maria "Oyog" Todi who heads the SLT (more about the SLT in Part 1.) She talked to me about the importance of preserving their culture, especially with the fast modernization of the world that affects the younger generation's interest in the young would perceive as "backward" or "old" T'boli traditions. With the support of the government and the community itself, Lake Sebu's SLT is considered a success.

Children working on dolls. They were dressing up dolls using T'boli beaded accessories and t'nalak.

Keeping traditions alive.

With Ms. Maria "Oyog" Todi, and three of the participants of the activity. (Also featuring my newly-bought giant-gong necklace.)

With the great Ms. Oyog.

The only gongs I found in the SLT that were larger than my necklace were these ones, and used as actual gongs.

This humble hut is where all the magic happens.

- Finally, it was time to go back to my hostel and part with my guide Richelle. I gave him a generous tip because of his above and beyond services (again I am so happy with this guide, he wasn't just a guide, but also my boat-rower, skillful and resourceful photographer, souvenir guide, and everything else in between.) I spent the rest of the afternoon availing my free 30-minute boat ride since I was an overnight guest. The only thing was that I had to row the boat myself. At least I got to try rowing an owong!! 

Richelle made rowing look easy.

What Punta Isla looks like from the middle of the lake.

Dora the Explorer: "Life vests, so we can be safe."

A slightly modernized owong.

Halo halo after dinner to cap off my Lake Sebu adventures.

- That evening I had to pack my backs for my departure the following day. I can't believe how two days in this quiet but colorful town made me think of a lot of things. It made me think of the pains of preserving cultures, to the warm support both inside and outside the community. It also made me realize how some indigenous groups, at least in the Philippines, are now more welcoming of visitors so they can immerse in the community and learn more about their cultures to foster understanding and mutual respect (and of course, earn money in the process). I really do hope that I'd get to mingle with more indigenous people in the future so I can learn more from them and support them too.

- Although my Lake Sebu adventures now come to a close, I have one agenda up my sleeve before coming back to Manila - exploring General Santos City!! (Please don't forget to read Part 1 here, and Part 3 here!!)