(Part 4) The Heat and Holiness of Cambodia: From a Dark Past to a Bright Future

- April 18, Thursday.

- When one thinks of Siem Reap, temples are the first thing that come to mind. While Siem Reap really is well-known for its endless temples, there are other places to see and experience in Siem Reap.

- On a happy sunny Thursday morning, I was whisked off by my tuktuk driver to see....the killing fields of Siem Reap, which now is occupied by a temple and memorial called Wat Thmey. Cambodia has more than a hundred killing fields all throughout the country. These existed during the mid-1970s Khmer Rouge Era, when the Cambodian genocide happened. Those who were suspected of defying communist rule, or being in touch with and form of capitalism, were tortured and eventually killed in masses. Today, apart from the temple with the bones of the victims that were found in the location, a photography exhibit on the communist era can be found, as well as an orphanage and school.

Wat Thmey. Look very closely because....

....there are bones inside.

Memorials.

Pol Pot, the man responsible for the genocide.

- From the killing fields, I was driven to the War Museum of Cambodia, which was opened in 1999. Some of the exhibit items were from World War II, but most were things that were used during the Khmer Rouge Era. This museum was also unusual as the exhibit is generally outdoors! Apart from guns, landmines, and other war-related stuff, the biggest items being exhibited were tanks, jeeps, and even a war helicopter!

A helicopter that has built-in guns!! 

War plane.

Guns.

War-era unifroms.

Not sure if this is a real landmine warning sign or part of the exhibit. -____-

Saw this fella hiding behind an ant's nest (or at least I think it's an ant's nest?)

Landmine exhibit.

- To lighten up my mood, I decided to visit the Artisans Angkor silk farm. Artisans Angkor is a social business organization that focuses on producing high-quality Khmer crafts. It has employed many Cambodians, especially those residing in the provinces, giving many Cambodians a source of income while preserving the cultural heritage of this royal country. The silk farm is one of the two main centers open to the public across the country, and is a good way to understand how Cambodia produces world-class silk. Apart from seeing the silkworms and their cocoons, I also appreciated how traditional weaving tools and techniques are being used. For me the most unique kind of silk products that they produce would be the "hol lboeuk"or those that combine the brocade embroidery and ikat (tie-dye) techniques. As two kinds of techniques are needed to finish "hol lboeuk" products, these of course would cost a lot more than usual silk products.

Silkworms.

Cocoons.

Silk-thread makers.

A half-finished ikat silk cloth.

A weaver ties a design using small pieces of rope on the thread that would be tie-dyed and woven later on. This is the ikat technique.

Artisans Angkor - silk farm.

- To end my morning tour, I visited the Cambodian Cultural Village. The village is actually a theme park opened in 2003 to celebrate the cultural diversity and historical legacy of Cambodia. It has a wax museum showing life-like figures of people in Cambodian history, villages representing each ethnic group in Cambodia, and an area with miniature of some significant Cambodian landmarks. Performances are held throughout the day, though I only saw the Khmer wedding ceremony (it's just a demonstration, not an actual wedding.) I do know, however that their most majestic show on King Jayavarman happens every Sunday night; too bad I wasn't able to see that!

Apsara at the wax museum.

Lieou Ye, the probably first ruler of 1st-century Funan-era Cambodia.

King Norodom Suramarit and Queen Sisowat Monivong, one of Cambodia's prominent royal couples in history.

Traditional wedding demonstration.

Scary giant Buddha head.

Freaky Buddha balls on a tree.

There were plenty of peacock statues/sculptures in the park.

Giant reclining Buddha.

Miniature Grand Palace; the original is located in Phnom Penh.

Miniature Independence Monument, the original is also located in Phnom Penh.

Traditional-style huts.

So true.

I wish my mind was at peace just like this frog.

Entrance/exit.

Main gate of the theme park.

- After I was dropped off at my hostel, I big farewell to my friendly tuktuk driver who patiently drove me around Siem Reap in the unforgiving heat, and retreated into my air-conditioned hostel room for a while, until I decided to have lunch and visit the other main center of Artisans Angkor located in downtown Siem Reap. This other public center makes various types of sculptures and paintings. It was interesting to watch the students/employees turn a block of wood or stone into something holy, graceful, or just plain cute. By the way, this workshop does not only make sculptures as souvenirs, but this workshop has done big projects, such as restoring broken statues, doorways, and other carvings of ancient temples all across Siem Reap.

It takes great skill to get the shapes right.

How a block of wood turns into a sculpture.

I was temped to ask the sculptor if I could have this little piggy. HAHA.

Painting on silk.

- I once again hid in my hostel for a good hour or two until I felt the sun was not too harsh for a short walk around the area. I passed by the Made in Cambodia Market, which sells artsy and contemporary Cambodian souvenirs. It is located near the Siem Reap Art Center Market.

Made in Cambodia Market.

- Later on, I found myself at Wat Preah Prohm Rath (sometimes spelled as Wat Preah Prom Rath.) This colorful temple which was built in the 1500s contains the statue of a reclining Buddha, which has been in the temple since the temple was built. Today, this tranquil temple is frequently visited by local devotees, as well as wandering tourists like me who stay near the area.

Buddha's encounters: an old man, a sick man, and a dead man.

I would have wanted to do a photoshoot inside this colorful temple, until I realized that many of the stupas (not in the photo) are memorials.

With plenty of Buddhist flags.

Buddha inside the main hall.

The historic reclining Buddha near the backdoor of the main hall.

- That evening I had nothing much to do and wanted to just absorb much of Siem Reap's vibrant energy. As with previous nights, I did my rounds in the night markets, since it was my final night in Siem Reap, and although I nearly regretted my journey to Siem Reap because I almost died from the heat, I was still able to maximize my time in the ancient capital of Cambodia. Next stop - the modern capital of Phnom Penh!! (Read Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here, Part 5 here, and Part 6 here!!)

(Part 3) Busan, the Southern Frontier: From Touristy Seas to Colorful Slopes

- April 13, 2019, Saturday.

- Busan might not be filled with tourist spots with every turn of the head like the bustling South-Korean capital of Seoul, but Busan is not short of good spots to visit. After a series of successful meetings in Seoul and Busan, I celebrated my last day - and only free day - by going around Busan on my own before my flight back to Manila that night. I knew I was not going to have enough time to visit all the items off my must-see places, so I chose three places to visit so I wouldn't be rushing too much. After all, travel time is a bit unpredictable in Busan as the roads go up, down, through mountains, and so on, and some sites are not near the metro stops.

- I woke up around 6 in the morning not only to start my day early, but to catch the sunrise in Haeundae (Haeundae metro station.) Haeundae has gained popularity among locals and visitors because of its proximity to the city and its wide stretch. It also gained popularity due to the 2009 Korean disaster-themed film "Haeundae" (English title "Tidal Wave"); this makes me wonder why all the hypothetically bad things happen in Busan (remember Train to Busan?) or why people want bad things to happen to Busan haha.

- To be honest, it looks like any ordinary beach. I just like the fact that it's literally beside the city. As mentioned in an earlier post (click here for Part 1), Busan reminds me a lot of Waikiki, or even downtown Honolulu (click here to see my trip to Hawaii). To make things interesting, I did a photoshoot there as "Yongwang" or "Dragon King." The Koreans believe that "Yongwang" is the god of the sea and weather, as well as the god of dragons and the lord of all sea creatures. This mythological figure was originally from China (called "Longwang,") and is also recognized in Japan and Vietnam.   

My interpretation of a modern "Yongwang."

The beach does have its charm, even though I don't usually like going to beaches.

This is me as Yongwang, waterbending. Haha.

Just to prove that I am not in any random sea/beach in the world. Hahahaha.

- I hastily went back to the hotel after my morning shoot so I can change my clothes, have breakfast, and go on to my next stop. I had to move quickly since I had to be back at the hotel by 3:30pm before going to the airport with my other colleagues. I finished my breakfast like a vacuum cleaner would suck dust on the floor, and rode the cab to Seokbulsa, a temple on a mountain located at the north of Busan (closest to Mandeok metro station, or go to Oncheongjang metro station, walk to Geumgang Park from Exit 1, and take the cable car.) However, do note that the temple is HIGH UP THE MOUNTAIN, and taking the cab is the easiest way to reach the temple. The cab will reach a certain point of the mountain, and the rest is a mere 5-10 minute hike up to the entrance.

Entrance.

- I chose to go to Seokbulsa (after Haedong Yonggungsa that is,) among all the other historical temples in Busan even though it was one of the youngest historical temples - being only built in 1930, because of its distinct appearance. The monk who built this temple noticed that the rock formations on this mountain formed some sort of folds, making the temple easier to hide and the monks to have some peace and quiet. Today, it remains to be one of the most secluded temples, visited usually by devotees and usually-middle-aged hikers. The most appealing thing about this temple is the collection of Buddhas and heavenly beings carved directly at the side of the mountain. Seokbulsa actually reminded me a lot of the Air Nomad Temples in Avatar the Last Airbender because of its location and look.

Carvings at the side of the mountain. Still makes me wonder how they did this before.

It has narrow stairs.

Altar.

At the mid-level.

Images of Dangun, the alleged/mythological first king of Korea.

Plenty of Buddha statues.

Buddha after Buddha after Buddha.

- Although the temple was nice to see, the way out was a challenge. Taxis do not hang out much at the higher levels of Seokbulsa, so I had to find my way down the mountain. It was not difficult as there were signs, more or less paved paths, and other visitors/hikers who can be of help if you're not sure where to go. I was supposed to go to the metro station just in case a taxi wouldn't drive past me. I was almost near the ground when out of nowhere, a taxi appeared before me like some divine unicorn. I rode the cab to my final destination for the day - the famed Gamcheon Village.

- Gamcheon Village is located far from Seokbulsa and nearer to the downtown. Because of the distance and traffic, it took me around an hour to reach Gamcheon Village (Toseong metro station, then ride the bus to Pusan National University Hospital OR....as I strongly suggest, ride a cab from Toseon station if you took the metro.)

- Gamcheon Village is known today a an artsy village with pastel-colored houses. It was originally a shanty town made by the Korean War refugees, but the residents later decided to paint their houses to attract tourists and businesses (talk about creative and sustainable!!) Apart from coffee shops and artsy stores, there are also a lot of traditional and pop-cultural activities and attractions in the village. Just a tip, in Busan this is the best place to buy souvenirs; the Nampodong area in the downtown has some souvenir shops but they're scattered and hard to find. 

In rainbowland.

Your colorful bodyguard.

Feeling the breeze and the view.

It doesn't look as intimidating as how it used to look before the houses were painted.

Hello Little Prince.

Too bad I wasn't able to go inside!!

More of Gamcheon.

- Going around the village can be confusing, so it's also best to buy a map at the tourist center. The map also has prescribed routes depending on how much time you have. Since I didn't have much time left, I took the shortest route, but saw the souvenir shops right before leaving and got carried away buying incredibly cheap hanbok vests.

- I rode the metro back to Haeundae and had a late lunch. I made it in time to my 3:30 call time and rode off to the airport after rearranging some things in my bag.

My favorite dish before leaving Korea - bibim naengmyeon.

- My trip to Korea this time was short and busy, and had I known about my trip to Korea earlier I would have decided to extend so I could escape the burning heat of peak-summer Philippines. However, I was still happy that I was able to maximize my trip and discover unseen corners of Seoul, or experience a different region of Korea like Busan. Korea just keeps surprising me each time I go back, and I wouldn't want my trips to Korea any other way!! (See my trip to Seoul here, Busan Part 1 here, Part 2 here!!)