Home for the Holidays (Part 2): Vigan City Basics

- Dec. 26-27, 2023, Tuesday to Wednesday.

- Ah Vigan! The land of cobblestones and Spanish houses where I spent one too many childhood summers and Christmas breaks! If you didn't know me well, my dad's side is actually from Vigan, so we used to go there a lot when I was young. I hadn't been here for nearly two decades and so I really really wanted to see it again!

- We went to Vigan from Bangar right after lunch on the 26th, and arrived in Vigan after around an hour and a half. Right after entering Vigan, I could see how much as changed, and how many people have gone to flock the streets of Vigan. I remembered Vigan as a sleepy city, with not too many tourists, at least that's how it felt like as a kid. I was shocked by how many businesses and establishments have added vibrance and movement to the city -- and the fact that there is now a mall too.

Entering Ilocos Sur.

Hello Vigan!

- We checked in at the Safari Hotel, which frankly I wasn't to keen on at first because it was just so far from the city center. But my dad wanted to stay there because it seemed unique, so OK. I grew to like it since I liked the safari-themed hotel (as the name suggests), and also because it was attached to the Baluarte Zoo. We had a quick VIP tour of the zoo that afternoon. 

This is what my room looks like at the Safari Hotel.

Feeding my new friends. I am now a Disney princess.

The Golden Tower. Reminds me of Trump's tower in Las Vegas.

From animals to dinosaurs, Baluarte has them all.

These animals were hunted to be displayed. I do not agree with this at all.

As remarkable as it seems, I don't agree with this, just saying this again. I'd rather see them alive.

- That evening we had dinner in the city center, near Calle Crisologo. After dinner, I was left alone to wander the streets of Calle Crisologo, a narrow pedestrian street that serves as the life of the city. Stores and restaurants open until late, and it's honestly the perfect place for all the touristy stuff I love so much. I even took a calesa ride just so I can have my main-character moment in a pretend Hallmark Christmas movie.

Crisologo.

Souvenir stores. Would buy them all if I could.

With a calesa.

Bought this salakot.

Vigan looks terrific at night,  during a full moon! It's just a shame that the cathedral (as well as other establishments) are currently under renovation (more on that later.)

Calesa! (The words on the right mean "Merry Christmas" in Ilocano.)

With the city hall to the left.

With my calesa driver, who showed me around at night.

Calle Crisologo can be a little bit toooo crowded for my liking.

Another full moon shot with one of the old Spanish houses.

- The following morning, I was full-on tourist mode as if I had never seen Vigan in my life. I started my day early, around 6:30AM, and was shocked to see the street was already alive, with some stores already open or about to open, and a handful of tourists who either wanted to take photos with or of a  crowdless Calle Crisologo. The sun was also not too strong early in the morning. For best photos, maybe be there around 5 or 5:30 in the morning, I'm not kidding. Well, I was at least able to take decent photos since the crowd was still "manageable" at that time.

Calle Crisologo!

Look at my new hat and fan that I bought the night prior along Calle Crisologo haha.

Typical Crisologo.

Don.

I love how well preserved these houses are!

- If you're not familiar with Calle Crisologo, this is THE postcard-worthy place that represents Vigan's heritage in a nutshell. Like Intramuros in Manila, it has preserved its cobble-stoned street with centuries-old houses from the Spanish era lining the streets. Most of the houses the line the street have been repurposed as stores, restaurants, and hotels. However, there are also some preserved houses in the nearby streets, making the whole city center a place to behold.

- I had breakfast at the McDonald's near the plaza to hide from the sun (as I was really built for the cold, and not for tropical countries), before continuing my adventure for the day. After wandering around the streets along and beside Calle Crisologo, I made my way to Liberation Boulevard to visit the Crisologo Museum (corner A. Reyes Street). The museum was the home of the Crisologo family. Yes, Calle Crisologo was named after Governor Marcelino Crisologo, the first governor of Ilocos Sur. The museum, however, focuses on Congressman Floro Crisologo. He established the Social Security System, the University of Northern Philippines, and the Tobacco Law. As most politicians, he had his fair share of issues, one of which led to his assassination in 1970.

Crisologo Museum.

It says what it is.

Floro Crisologo's old clothes.

His office.

His hat collection, which I would really REALLY want to have.

His clothes, and news articles from when he was assassinated in Vigan Cathedral.

Living room.

Bedroom.

. After going around the museum, I walked a couple of blocks away until I reached the Pagburnayan area. This area, named after "burnay" or pots, is where many pottery factories can be seen. Visitors can also personally experience making pots, with donations as "payment" for the experience. Currently, there are two main (remaining?) factories. The Ruby Jar Factory, owned by Mr. Fidel "Bong" Antiporda Go. Although you might see him in his usual tank top and and shorts, with clay-stained hands and feet, Mr. Bong Go (no, not to politician) is actually bears the honor of being a National Folk Artist. (He was even proud to tell me that a photo of his face is in the National Museum here in Manila!) His factory was established in 1922.

Mr. Go demonstrating his pottery skills to a group of tourists (including me).

He makes it seem so easy!

Look at that.

I, obviously, had no idea what I was doing.

A priceless selfie! (How many times can you tell people that you have taken a selfie with a NATIONAL FOLK ARTIST????)

Sign outside.

Kindly read.

- Across Ruby Jar Factory is the RG Jar Factory, owned by the Alcid Family. Their factory was established in 1824. Between Ruby and RG, RG appears more "photo worthy" because their place is more well-lit, with more pots to exhibit. RG seems to be more touristy, as they have multiple pottery-making stations for tourists to try and take photos. I tried my hand in pottery in this factory as well, because why not, I was already there.

Inside RG Jar Factory. You can immediately see the rows and rows of pots and jars.

Mr. Max making a pot.

Mr. Max helping me not look like a fool of myself. (He was quite hands on with teaching me how to make a decent pot....to no avail HAHA.)

This is what their sign looks like.

- From Pagburnayan, I walked a few blocks to Vigan's very own Sikh temple, because I wanted to see what it was like. Like the one I saw in San Fernando in La Union, this one was fairly new, being built around 2015. Like in San Fernando, it was quite quiet inside since there was no special event or prayer session, but I was accommodated by a temple volunteer.  

It looks grand!

I love the colorful flags.

Just outside the prayer hall.

Inside the tranquil prayer hall.

Weapons kept inside temples as part of the altar.

- I walked back to the Crisologo area after my visit to the temple, and had lunch, before visiting the National Musuem. In Vigan, the Ilocos branch of the National Museum has two main buildings that are adjacent to each other: the Burgos House and the Old Carcel. The Burgos House was built in the 1700s, and was where Father Jose Burgos (of GomBurZa) lived during his childhood. The three priests of GomBurZa fought for equal rights and fought against Spanish priests. The three were killed using the garrote.  

Burgos House.

At the entrance.

Garrote.

Bedroom.

Another bedroom.

GomBurZa.

A photo of Fr. Burgos by the sitting room.

Dining room.

- The Old Carcel beside the Burgos House was built in the 1600s as a small jail. In 1890, former president Elpidio Quirino was born in this jailhouse because his father was a warden. The Old Carcel functioned as a jail until as late as 2014, before it was converted to a museum. (Imagine going to the Burgos House before 2014, knowing that there was a jail beside it!) 

Old Carcel.

This reminds me a bit of the concentration camps in Germany.

It wasn't as scary as it was well-lit.

Ilocano jewelry and dress.

President Elpidio Quirino.

His office.

The room where President Quirino was born.

He was a lover of hats, shoes, and canes.

- Later that afternoon, I went back to the hotel to freshen up and spend the rest of the afternoon with the family in our house in Vigan, before having dinner in Calle Crisologo. I spent some time wandering the street once more after dinner, because I really just love the vibe of Calle Crisologo at night (except the heat and the mosquitoes I guess.)

- Spending a full day in Vigan was definitely a good way to reconnect myself to the place, although it wasn't enough for me to fully enjoy the city. I would have also taken the whole day exploring if not for some places being closed for renovations due to the big earthquake in July 2022. Still, I was truly happy to have had the chance to go around! Thankfully, I had more days and more places to explore Vigan City!