Home for the Holidays (Part 3): More of Vigan City and Neighboring Bantay

- Dec. 28-29, 2023, Thursday to Friday.

- Vigan is a small city that has seen so much history - and many remnants of that history can still be seen today. This is Vigan's appeal. 

- On my second full day in Vigan, I started my day by visiting the Vigan Cathedral, also known as St. Paul Cathedral. It was completed in 1800 and made in the earthquake baroque style, a common architectural style in the Philippines during the Spanish colonial era. Unfortunately, it is currently having its facelift after the big earthquake that took place in July 2022, which damaged many buildings in the region.

I don't know why but this photo makes me feel like this is somewhere in Latin America.

A statue of Jose Rizal at the Salcedo Plaza.

Because why not.

Because why not Part 2.

- I find the cathedral unique as it has two plazas in its vicinity instead of one: the Salcedo Plaza (in front of the cathedral, where Gabriela Silang was hanged, and where there is a nightly dancing lights show) and the Burgos Plaza (in honor of Father Jose Burgos).  

Burgos Plaza. (This place, by the way, is known for its empanada stalls. The stalls can't be seen in this photo but you'll immediately see them once you go to the plaza.)

The McDonald's in Vigan was made "hispanic", architecturally.

The archbishop's residence, located beside the cathedral, and known for its museum of religious artifacts. Unfortunately it's currently closed, also because of the earthquake. 

- From the plaza I rode a tricycle to the adjacent municipality of Bantay, specifically to the Bantay Church. Although it was actually walkable (around a kilometer,) the sun was just too strong. At least I didn't arrive drenched in sweat.

- The Bantay Church was built in 1590, and is known for its hilltop belfry that also acts as a watchtower. Because of this watchtower, the municipality of Bantay got its name, from the Filipino word "bantay" or "to guard."

Bantay Tower.

I looks amazing, but also incredibly unsafe because of all the cracks.

Like in the Luna watchtower, there are church staff (at least it's more "legit" here), who volunteer to take nice photos of you. Payment is also by tips. Because this guy took many nice photos of me, and made sure there were no photobombers, I gave him a nice tip.

Inside Bantay Church.

Scaffolding, and a little bit of Bantay Church.

- The church is also having a "facelift", and the watchtower is also off limits. However, guests can see the watchtower from the gate. In the past, people could actually go near or even up the tower. Currently, it is unsafe because of the damages from the earthquake.

- From the church I rode the same tricycle back to Vigan, and took some photos in front of the Burgos House and the Old Carcel, which I wasn't able to do the day before as there were too many people. I then spent the rest of the morning "doing my rounds" in Calle Crisologo (because really, what's not to love about this street, day or night.) I also did another calesa ride, because I wanted to do it during the day this time, and to see just in case I wasn't able to visit anything else. 

Crisologo's "quieter" end.

My calesa ride.

Trying to hide from the heat.

Calesa parking behind Burgos Plaza.

- I had lunch in our Vigan home before visiting Mira Hill in the afternoon. Mira Hill is a hill-top children's park that was unfortunately left to age poorly. I wanted to visit Mira Hill because I saw during my morning calesa ride that there is apparently a "Buridek Children's Museum" that I wasn't able to come across during my trip preparation before going to Ilocos. Apparently, this children's museum is also not operating as it was a project by the former mayor. (Sigh, the wonders of politics.) However, I would like to thank the caretaker for telling us to "check it out" to see if we're interested. The museum was built inside several small cottages, and had no locks, so we were able to peek inside. Some of them had power, so we were allowed to turn on the lights. Over all, I think I had a nice visit, but I really wished that they were able to maintain this nice museum of children!

At the children's museum. I still wonder why they let this state of a pig do manual labor haha.

One of the highlights of the Buridek Children's Museum is its miniature sites of Vigan.

The main "cottage".

I dare not get on that calesa.

My new family. HAHA.

- I spent the rest of the afternoon in Hidden Garden, which is quite far from the city center, along Bulala Street. Hidden Garden opened in 1991, and is a place where one can appreciate quirky artwork, buy plants and some local products, as well as eat in their restaurant/cafe. (Please take note that their food can take an infinity to arrive, especially during peak hours, even for the simplest meal. So maybe just do the first two instead.) 

Hidden Garden.

Many famous people have visited.

Some of their displays.

There are a few of these large-lipped sculptures across the property.

For my non-Filipino-speaking friends: "Your mouth will look like this if you're a gossipmonger."

Truly a magical place.

"Poqui poqui" may sound inappropriate in Filipino, but in Ilocano, "poqui poqui" refers to this eggplant dish in the photo.

Surrounded by bonsai.

Plants for sale.

Pretending I'm in Thailand (which, by the way, I miss a lot.)

A "jazz singer."

A few steps away from the Hidden Garden is its extension, which is a small events place. For some reason, it is Japanese themed.

Wasn't I just in Japan? HAHA.

- That night my family, some of our staff, as well as some family friends had a boodle fight dinner (my "training" in eating Indian food with my hand came in handy). The following morning, I had another tour, this time more complete, of the Baluarte Zoo because why not, right? I was already there anyway. This was the last major thing I did in Vigan before I left the city.

Again with the giraffe and the deer.

Giraffes are....really huge.

Had a photo with a sleepy white lion.

A piece of the Cordilleras. By the way, this photo reminds me of the photos I took in Uluru (Ayer's Rock) in Australia, particularly of Katatjuta! (See here).

At the rooftop of Chavit Singson's golden mansion, which is open to tourists.

Peacocks, because peacocks.

I met my student there. I asked her about my thesis. She nearly ran away.

Snake.

Camel.

My new ostrich friend.

Obviously, cannot go inside.

Oh, I had pinakbet pizza for lunch that day, it was my last lunch in Vigan. We picked this up from Cafe Leona, which is located in Calle Crisologo. We didn't eat there because there were too many people.

- Vigan is a place with so many memories, a lot more than I thought I did. Despite some places either closed or under renovation, I felt that it was about time that I revisited a part of my childhood. If not for the long long distance to go to Vigan, I would love to go there more frequently. It may look similarly to Manila's Intramuros, but Vigan has a cozier feel, while Intramuros has a grander feel. Anyway, this wraps up my trip to Vigan for now, yet the Ilocos adventure for this trip does not stop here!

Home for the Holidays (Part 2): Vigan City Basics

- Dec. 26-27, 2023, Tuesday to Wednesday.

- Ah Vigan! The land of cobblestones and Spanish houses where I spent one too many childhood summers and Christmas breaks! If you didn't know me well, my dad's side is actually from Vigan, so we used to go there a lot when I was young. I hadn't been here for nearly two decades and so I really really wanted to see it again!

- We went to Vigan from Bangar right after lunch on the 26th, and arrived in Vigan after around an hour and a half. Right after entering Vigan, I could see how much as changed, and how many people have gone to flock the streets of Vigan. I remembered Vigan as a sleepy city, with not too many tourists, at least that's how it felt like as a kid. I was shocked by how many businesses and establishments have added vibrance and movement to the city -- and the fact that there is now a mall too.

Entering Ilocos Sur.

Hello Vigan!

- We checked in at the Safari Hotel, which frankly I wasn't to keen on at first because it was just so far from the city center. But my dad wanted to stay there because it seemed unique, so OK. I grew to like it since I liked the safari-themed hotel (as the name suggests), and also because it was attached to the Baluarte Zoo. We had a quick VIP tour of the zoo that afternoon. 

This is what my room looks like at the Safari Hotel.

Feeding my new friends. I am now a Disney princess.

The Golden Tower. Reminds me of Trump's tower in Las Vegas.

From animals to dinosaurs, Baluarte has them all.

These animals were hunted to be displayed. I do not agree with this at all.

As remarkable as it seems, I don't agree with this, just saying this again. I'd rather see them alive.

- That evening we had dinner in the city center, near Calle Crisologo. After dinner, I was left alone to wander the streets of Calle Crisologo, a narrow pedestrian street that serves as the life of the city. Stores and restaurants open until late, and it's honestly the perfect place for all the touristy stuff I love so much. I even took a calesa ride just so I can have my main-character moment in a pretend Hallmark Christmas movie.

Crisologo.

Souvenir stores. Would buy them all if I could.

With a calesa.

Bought this salakot.

Vigan looks terrific at night,  during a full moon! It's just a shame that the cathedral (as well as other establishments) are currently under renovation (more on that later.)

Calesa! (The words on the right mean "Merry Christmas" in Ilocano.)

With the city hall to the left.

With my calesa driver, who showed me around at night.

Calle Crisologo can be a little bit toooo crowded for my liking.

Another full moon shot with one of the old Spanish houses.

- The following morning, I was full-on tourist mode as if I had never seen Vigan in my life. I started my day early, around 6:30AM, and was shocked to see the street was already alive, with some stores already open or about to open, and a handful of tourists who either wanted to take photos with or of a  crowdless Calle Crisologo. The sun was also not too strong early in the morning. For best photos, maybe be there around 5 or 5:30 in the morning, I'm not kidding. Well, I was at least able to take decent photos since the crowd was still "manageable" at that time.

Calle Crisologo!

Look at my new hat and fan that I bought the night prior along Calle Crisologo haha.

Typical Crisologo.

Don.

I love how well preserved these houses are!

- If you're not familiar with Calle Crisologo, this is THE postcard-worthy place that represents Vigan's heritage in a nutshell. Like Intramuros in Manila, it has preserved its cobble-stoned street with centuries-old houses from the Spanish era lining the streets. Most of the houses the line the street have been repurposed as stores, restaurants, and hotels. However, there are also some preserved houses in the nearby streets, making the whole city center a place to behold.

- I had breakfast at the McDonald's near the plaza to hide from the sun (as I was really built for the cold, and not for tropical countries), before continuing my adventure for the day. After wandering around the streets along and beside Calle Crisologo, I made my way to Liberation Boulevard to visit the Crisologo Museum (corner A. Reyes Street). The museum was the home of the Crisologo family. Yes, Calle Crisologo was named after Governor Marcelino Crisologo, the first governor of Ilocos Sur. The museum, however, focuses on Congressman Floro Crisologo. He established the Social Security System, the University of Northern Philippines, and the Tobacco Law. As most politicians, he had his fair share of issues, one of which led to his assassination in 1970.

Crisologo Museum.

It says what it is.

Floro Crisologo's old clothes.

His office.

His hat collection, which I would really REALLY want to have.

His clothes, and news articles from when he was assassinated in Vigan Cathedral.

Living room.

Bedroom.

. After going around the museum, I walked a couple of blocks away until I reached the Pagburnayan area. This area, named after "burnay" or pots, is where many pottery factories can be seen. Visitors can also personally experience making pots, with donations as "payment" for the experience. Currently, there are two main (remaining?) factories. The Ruby Jar Factory, owned by Mr. Fidel "Bong" Antiporda Go. Although you might see him in his usual tank top and and shorts, with clay-stained hands and feet, Mr. Bong Go (no, not to politician) is actually bears the honor of being a National Folk Artist. (He was even proud to tell me that a photo of his face is in the National Museum here in Manila!) His factory was established in 1922.

Mr. Go demonstrating his pottery skills to a group of tourists (including me).

He makes it seem so easy!

Look at that.

I, obviously, had no idea what I was doing.

A priceless selfie! (How many times can you tell people that you have taken a selfie with a NATIONAL FOLK ARTIST????)

Sign outside.

Kindly read.

- Across Ruby Jar Factory is the RG Jar Factory, owned by the Alcid Family. Their factory was established in 1824. Between Ruby and RG, RG appears more "photo worthy" because their place is more well-lit, with more pots to exhibit. RG seems to be more touristy, as they have multiple pottery-making stations for tourists to try and take photos. I tried my hand in pottery in this factory as well, because why not, I was already there.

Inside RG Jar Factory. You can immediately see the rows and rows of pots and jars.

Mr. Max making a pot.

Mr. Max helping me not look like a fool of myself. (He was quite hands on with teaching me how to make a decent pot....to no avail HAHA.)

This is what their sign looks like.

- From Pagburnayan, I walked a few blocks to Vigan's very own Sikh temple, because I wanted to see what it was like. Like the one I saw in San Fernando in La Union, this one was fairly new, being built around 2015. Like in San Fernando, it was quite quiet inside since there was no special event or prayer session, but I was accommodated by a temple volunteer.  

It looks grand!

I love the colorful flags.

Just outside the prayer hall.

Inside the tranquil prayer hall.

Weapons kept inside temples as part of the altar.

- I walked back to the Crisologo area after my visit to the temple, and had lunch, before visiting the National Musuem. In Vigan, the Ilocos branch of the National Museum has two main buildings that are adjacent to each other: the Burgos House and the Old Carcel. The Burgos House was built in the 1700s, and was where Father Jose Burgos (of GomBurZa) lived during his childhood. The three priests of GomBurZa fought for equal rights and fought against Spanish priests. The three were killed using the garrote.  

Burgos House.

At the entrance.

Garrote.

Bedroom.

Another bedroom.

GomBurZa.

A photo of Fr. Burgos by the sitting room.

Dining room.

- The Old Carcel beside the Burgos House was built in the 1600s as a small jail. In 1890, former president Elpidio Quirino was born in this jailhouse because his father was a warden. The Old Carcel functioned as a jail until as late as 2014, before it was converted to a museum. (Imagine going to the Burgos House before 2014, knowing that there was a jail beside it!) 

Old Carcel.

This reminds me a bit of the concentration camps in Germany.

It wasn't as scary as it was well-lit.

Ilocano jewelry and dress.

President Elpidio Quirino.

His office.

The room where President Quirino was born.

He was a lover of hats, shoes, and canes.

- Later that afternoon, I went back to the hotel to freshen up and spend the rest of the afternoon with the family in our house in Vigan, before having dinner in Calle Crisologo. I spent some time wandering the street once more after dinner, because I really just love the vibe of Calle Crisologo at night (except the heat and the mosquitoes I guess.)

- Spending a full day in Vigan was definitely a good way to reconnect myself to the place, although it wasn't enough for me to fully enjoy the city. I would have also taken the whole day exploring if not for some places being closed for renovations due to the big earthquake in July 2022. Still, I was truly happy to have had the chance to go around! Thankfully, I had more days and more places to explore Vigan City!