Sunkissed in Sri Lanka (Part 2): I Want Kandy!

- April 14, 2025, Monday.

- Many travelers often treat Colombo as a jump-off point, mainly because it's the main city of Sri Lanka and where the international airport is located. But it is often suggested that the best way to experience and learn the real Sri Lanka is to go to any of the other cities of the country. One city that holds much cultural and historical significance is Kandy. Kandy is located in the center of the country, and was home to the last kingdom of Sri Lanka before colonial rule.

- Getting to Kandy from Colombo is easiest done by train. Book through the government's official website (click here) and choose from several seat classes. Although the unreserved seats give the most authentic Sri Lankan experience, I opted for the airconditioned carts with reserved seating. The trip can be between 2.5 hours to 4 hours depending on the train line and station of origin, so I knew I needed a bit of comfort, especially because of the summer heat. I had no regrets!

Colombo Fort Railway Station.

Inside the station.

SO CROWDED.

Thank you for the comfort. The AC was blizzard-level as well, something that I truly, truly appreciate especially during summer.

Sri Lanka has a lot of interesting looking mountains.

Arrived!

Kandy Railway Station.

- It took me 2.5 hours from Colombo Fort Station to Kandy Railway Station. Upon arriving, I walked a couple of blocks to my hostel, called Dumbara Peak Residence. I loved this hostel a lot and I was fortunate enough to get a private room for a good price. It is in the middle of Kandy's downtown too! (Very convenient!) The hotel has its own as well at the roof deck, with affordable continental and Sinhalese food.

I love my room so much!!

- That afternoon, I asked my hostel if they could help me rent a tuktuk (with driver) for a couple of hours since the places I wanted to visit were outside the city proper. I had to pay the driver 10,000LKR, which is around 40USD, because it was a holiday and at the last minute. Otherwise, it would be cheaper. It was still within the reasonable range, I feel, as the places I wished to go were far from each other and involved going up several steep mountains.

- I first visited the Ambuluwawa Tower in the town of Gampola. It was built in the early 2000s as a statement of religious harmony in Sri Lanka; it has Hindu, Muslim, Buddhist, and Christian shrines in its vicinity. The most notable feature of the tower is the tower itself, and its stairs that become narrower and narrower as one goes up. I did not go all the way up anymore, just midway, because I don't think I would be wide enough to fit in the narrower steps, and because there was a thick fog.

It was too foggy I really had to max edit the brightness and shadow of this photo.

It looks like something from a fairytale book!

It was hard to see Gampola from above the mountain because of the fog.

- My next agenda was to visit the three temple loop, which consists of three temples (that are no where near each other!). The closest to the Ambuluwawa Tower is the Embekke (or Embekka) Temple in Udunuwara. Built in the 1300s by King Vikramabahu III for the god Kartikeya, who is also known as Murugan. The temple is recognized for its well-preserved wooden pillars with different carvings.

A simple-looking wooden temple with plenty of history.

This carving shows the angampora, a local martial art style.

Kartikeya/Murugan.

Between pillars.

Pillar locks. with the pekada or pillar heads.

Shrine for Buddha at the side.

Old door knob and lock.

To the main shrine.

A kinnari, or a bird-human, holding a veena.

A bodhi tree, something seen in most temples, but often Buddhist rather than Hindu. I noticed that many Hindu or Buddhist temples accommodate aspects the other religion in their premises. 

- The second temple in the loop is the Lankatilaka Temple, and is a Buddhist temple. It was built by King Bhuvanekabahu IV in the 1300s. As it was built on a natural rock, one needs to be careful when walking on the temple premises, especially on a scorching day while barefoot. I think this temple was the most interesting among the three in the loop. 

Lankatilaka Temple.

Wall painting.

Look at the dogs!

I felt at peace in this hall, although I am not Buddhist.

More wall paintings.

Guardians of the shrine. Plus two carvings of the actual guardians.

The door to the Buddha shrine was an artwork in itself. 

This temple had more details even on its facade.

See the elephants?

Another temple, another bodhi tree.

As I was leaving the temple, I saw these people spending the Tamil/Sinhalese New Year by playing cricket on the street.

- Finally, the third temple in the loop is Galadadeniya Temple. Also built by King Bhuvanekabahu IV in the 1300s, this Buddhist temple is a prominent rock temple in Sri Lanka, merging Indian and Sinhalese architectural styles. Unfortunately it was being renovated when I went, although it was still possible to visit the main shrine.

Restoration works :( :( :( :( but hey, at least it's being restored.

Bodhi tree.

This is where the main shrine is.

Closeup of the door.

Peeking Buddha.

Main shrine, made mostly of stone!

Historical inscriptions on a big slope, which describes the construction process of the temple.

- After a full afternoon outside downtown Kandy, I went back to the downtown area and did some errands before having dinner at the Kandyan Muslim Hotel (which, as mentioned, means a restaurant rather than an actual hotel). This humble Muslim-run restaurant and sweets store has been around since 1907!

I had my chicken cheese kabul, which is a crepe-like dish with so much filling. I also had fresh avocado juice, and for dessert, a slice of watalappam (spiced coconut custard pudding).

Hope you get to visit them! They're at the city center!

- I was so happy that I was able to maximize whatever time I had on my first day in Kandy. It felt totally different from Colombo as it was more relaxed and more "spiritual" as a rural city and a site of many temples of national significance. However, there is still much more to see and do in Kandy!  

** Check out my other Sri Lanka adventures here!

Part 1: Colombo Fort, Pettah Market, Lotus Tower, Galle Face Green - here

Part 3: Kandy, Sacred Tooth Relic, Central Market, Sri Maha Bodhi Viharaya, Kandy Lake Club - here 

Part 4: Sigiriya and Dambulla Cave Temple - here

Part 5: Nuwara Eliya, Nanu Oya, Ella - here

Part 6: Kandy, Bogambara Prison Park and Train to Colombo - here

Part 7: Colombo, Gangaramaya Temple, Independence Memorial Hall, National Museum - here