Sunday, April 27, 2025

Sunkissed in Sri Lanka (Part 4): Sights and Heights of Sigiriya and Dambulla!

- April 16, 2025, Wednesday.

- The image of a palace on a giant mountain-like rock feels like something that only appears in fairytales. However, Sri Lanka has a wonder like this, or at least "had". The Sigiriya Rock Fortress is one of Sri Lanka's icons, and it partly the reason why I've been meaning to go to Sri Lanka. What today remains the ruins of gardens, and the palace itself was once a majestic palace on the rock, with a city surrounding it.

- My trip to Sigiriya from Kandy was organized by Oneworld Tours Sri Lanka; I found the tour via TripAdvisor. My chauffeur Janaka picked me up at the hotel and on we went to a comfortable 2-hour drive to Sigiriya. Upon arriving, I had to buy my ticket before exploring the archeological grounds. 

Remnants of the water garden.

Also part of his water garden.

I cannot believe I am seeing rock fortress after so many years.

Wearing my best Sri Lankan saram (sarong).

I have a thing of ancient historical rocks. I was also fascinated with Uluru (Ayer's Rock) in Australia.

- The climb to the top takes anywhere from an hour or more depending on your pace and fitness, the weather, and the crowd. Visitors need to climb up a thousand steps or so, but with some flat parts in between the climb. Nearing the top might be anxiety-inducing for those with acrophobia (or fear of heights) because the steel stairs are built around the rock with a full view of the jungle around the rock. 

Enter the rock arch.


Saw this big white Buddha statue from maybe a third up the stairs.

I promise it's just the angle, it's not as scary as it looks.

Part of the ancient citadel.

- The palace was built by King Kashyapa in the 5th century both for his residence and as a pleasure palace. It is said that he built the palace high up because his step-brother Moggallana will come and attack him. Kashyapa actually usurped the throne from Moggallana after killing their father, Dhatusena. Eventually, when Moggallana sought revenge and Kashyapa died, the palace was converted to a Buddhist monastery. Unfortunately, the palace/monastery fell into disuse after the 14th century when the Sri Lankans moved to the island's southwest for political and economic reasons, where Colombo is today.

This was already....halfway(??)....up the rock.

One of the two paws left from what was supposed to be a giant lion (Sigirya means "Lion's Rock", and was called as such because of the giant lion that once stood here).

Pidurangala mountain, where at the peak you can see Sigiriya.

Monkeys.

What's left of the palace on top of the rock.

Other pools/ponds left.

The Knuckles Mountain Range seen from Sigiriya's peak.

The walkway/pleasure palace as seen from the peak.

It was a challenge bringing materials up the peak as this was a rock, not a mountain. It would have been difficult to climb up in the first place.

The other paw.

This was called the Mirror Wall because it used to be so polished, like a mirror. This was also the path going to the Buddhist cave paintings (photos not allowed.)

Painting from the Cobra Hood Cave (photos at this area were allowed, but the paintings were hardly there already.)

- Although fried by the sun, I made it back to flat ground in one piece. Janaka took me to Dambulu Kitchen for lunch so I can "refuel" myself and get a bit of rest. It was an amazing buffet - Sri Lankan food with many vegetable dishes - with an even more amazing price!

This buffet was just heavenly.

See all the colorful Sri Lankan curries!!

- For the afternoon, I was all set for another hike (I didn't really have a choice as it was part of the tour and I didn't want to miss it). Before the hike to the Dambulla Cave Temple, I had a brief photo stop at the Golden Buddha Temple at the base of the cave temple. Unfortunately I didn't have time to explore the three-story museum. This temple was built in the late 1990s.

At the Golden Buddha Temple, but the Buddha is currently being restored.

There was also a golden stupa at the entrance.

- Although the Dambulla Cave Temple can be accessed by climbing a path from the golden temple, it has a second more accessible entrance at the base of the mountain with stairs that go directly up the rock to the temple. There were some rest stops along the way, so it was easier to pace myself.

- The Dambulla Cave Temple has been a Buddhist temple since the 1st century BCE. It has five caves, each with ornate paintings and statues of the Buddha. The white terrace outside the caves were built in the 1930s to further protect the caves from natural causes such as heat and rain. 

Another monkey.

I might be smiling but it was so painful walking on hot tiles.

Really had to be quick with this photo. But please appreciate how nice the temple looks.

Five caves of varying sizes.

- The biggest challenge of the visit was having to walk barefoot once I reached the top. The rock was exposed to the sun and it was difficult to walk as I felt my feet were being cooked (think of meat on a sizzling plate!) But I was able to see the beauty and serenity of each cave. I still cannot believe how people were able to do such incredible work before advanced technology was present. Painting and putting big carvings to many Buddhas inside the cave are not easy, even today!

Reclining Buddha.

My favorite cave. I felt calmest here, maybe because of the size of the cave as well as the nice ceiling paintings.

Rows of Buddhas.

Statues of the gods Saman and Vishnu.

- Visiting the cave temple did not need too much time, and I went back to the car to refresh and rest before visiting the Royal 100 Spice and Herbal Garden. This is one of the many famed spice gardens in Sri Lanka, and is the perfect place to learn more about how spices look like, their uses, and to buy naturally-made products from herbs and spices such as shampoos, soaps, lotions, sprays, perfumes, and other items.

My guide showing me cardamom plants.

They gave me complimentary cinnamon tea.

So this is what citronella looks like!

This is a medicinal pineapple, and it's a lot smaller than the typical sweet pineapples used for desserts.

How to make curry powder from various natural spices!

Showing me various products made from the herbs and spices in the garden.

- Finally, I visited the Sri Muthumariamman Temple at Matale. Built in 1874, not only is it historical, but it also boasts its gopuram, or tower, which is one of the tallest in Sri Lanka. It is also admired for its colorful appearance.

The temple's towering gopuram.

At the temple.

Colorful interior!

That's an unusual looking elephant creature!

Back gate.

Close up of the gopuram.

Above the doorway.

- After my tour concluded once I finished going around the temple, I was driven back to my hotel. After which, I spent some time going around the downtown before having dinner delivered to my hotel. I was so happy that I was finally able to visit Sigiriya at the cost of being a lot more sunburned and having tired legs from all the climbing. Sigiriya might be Sri Lanka's most recognizable landmark, but other landmarks in Sri Lanka have also been gaining much attention especially due to social media. One such place is my next destination, Ella! 


** Check out my other Sri Lanka adventures here!

Part 1: Colombo Fort, Pettah Market, Lotus Tower, Galle Face Green - here

Part 2: Kandy, Ambulawawa Tower, Three Temple Loop - here 

Part 3: Kandy, Sacred Tooth Relic, Central Market, Sri Maha Bodhi Viharaya, Kandy Lake Club - here 

Part 5: Nuwara Eliya, Nanu Oya, Ella - here

Part 6: Kandy, Bogambara Prison Park and Train to Colombo - here

Part 7: Colombo, Gangaramaya Temple, Independence Memorial Hall, National Museum - here

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