Books and Roses in Intramuros!

- April 22, 2023, Saturday.

- Books and roses anyone? If you're not familiar with how these two are related, then you're missing out! Dia del Libro or "Day of Books" is an annual book fair in Spain, especially in Catalunya, where men are given books and women were given roses on St. George's Day (Sant Jordi). It is held in April. These days, people often organize book-and-flower markets, and sometimes people get a rose whenever they buy a book dueing Dia del Libro. The tradition of Dia del Libro has been brought to other parts of the world through the Instituto Cervantes, the language and culture arm of Spanish embassies around the world. 

HOLA!!

I AM BACK.

- Who knew it would take me this long to visit Instituto Cervantes Manila? Instituto Cervantes Manila also holds a special place in my heart as I did my internship there when I was in college - and I helped organize Dia del Libro that summer too! I used to blog almost every year about Dia del Libro since I loved going there even before I did my internship. That is, until Instituto Cervantes Manila moved to Makati City. They used to be located near UN Avenue, which was closer to me. Makati was just so hard to reach from Manila especially with all the pre-pandemic traffic. It was then when I wasn't able to attend their cultural events. In 2018, they opened their Manila branch in Intramuros, and this year, they held it here instead of Makati. What joy for me!!

Museum visit.

Flying books.

I bought this because my dad has been disappointed in me in this department since I was young. HAHAHAHA. (Note: the book is more literature and culture based, not grammar based, so good luck to me because I don't understand a word.)

Got my rose for buying a flower!

- This year, they had many vendors from publishing hours that specialized in academic books, language books,  as well as history and culture books. They also had stalls from Embassies that had historical and cultural ties to Spain (Mexico, Colombia, Venezuela, etc.) There were some food stalls selling Spanish food too. I got myself an "enye" bread, a letter that is native to the Spanish language. They also had various activities like a Spanish demo class, diagnostic tests, photo booths, a free visit to their modest art gallery, and some games related to the Spanish language. But most importantly, it was nice to be reunited with some friends who are with Instituto or volunteered as staff for the event. I also met some colleagues as well!

With my former classmate Denzel!

Kuya Allan hasn't aged a day since my internship centuries ago. Kuya Allan is the trusted security personnel of Instituto! I was also twinning with Kuya Allan HAHAHAHA.

With Rio!

My enye bread.

With my amazing collleagues Sir Chas and AC from Ateneo's History Department.

- Instituto Cervantes also had a partnership with Casa Manila, which is located along the book market. Although normally requiring paying for an entrance ticket, entrance to Casa Manila was free on Dia del Libro! If you didn't know, Casa Manila is a museum that was made to look like an aristocratic house during the Spanish Era. I've been to Casa Manila tons and tons and tons of times, but why would I reject anything free right? My friend and colleague AC and I had a blast visiting Casa Manila.

Casa Manila courtyard.

I look like I work in Casa Manila.

Context: AC wanted to take a photo of the room and I tried to step away from the frame. There wasn't much space so I had to squish myself in the corner. I didn't know I was part of the photo....hence....this masterpiece.

- Later that afternoon I brought AC to La Cathedral Cafe behind Manila Cathedral because he hasn't been there and we both wanted to eat and catch up. It was the perfect way to end the day, and I'm really glad it didn't rain PLUS it wasn't scorching hot, because the rooftop dining of the cafe is al fresco and best enjoyed that way.   

The main reason why AC and I wanted to eat at La Cathedral Cafe. I didn't take photos anymore since I had photos during a previous visit.

- Visiting El Dia Libro was the perfect cultural breather I needed from all my work-related headaches these days. It was a reminder of why I always like attending cultural events. I understand that many fancy events are now done in Makati or BGC where the space is perhaps bigger, but I will forever be thankful for events done in (rather congested) Manila!

A Sip of History: Destileria Limtuaco Museum in Intramuros

- April 23, 2022, Saturday.

- As someone who likes to learn and explore, there are times when I'd do things that I don't normally do. One of which is drinking. I rarely rarely drink, and my tolerance for alcohol is low, and it's not something I typically enjoy doing. However, I recently thought of the Destileria Limtuaco Museum randomly, and remembered that I had never visited this place in Intramuros. I also felt I had to visit it at some point as it was the very first and oldest still-running distillery in the Philippines after all.

- The museum was opened to the public in February 2018, although it has been in Intramuros for the past 4 decades prior. The museum was initially built as a private collection and only for personal visitors of the Limtuaco family. One can find the museum today behind Colegio San Juan de Letran, near the Jones Bridge side of Intramuros. The museum is inside a Spanish-style stone house. 

The museum.

They had to write Chinese words as the family has its roots in China.

- The actual distillery was never located in this museum. Lim Tua Co came to the Philippines from China in 1850 and thought of setting up a distillery as he carried with him his family's energizing Chinese tonic recipe. The first site of the distillery was in Gandara Street (now Sabino Padilla Street) in Binondo Chinatown. In 1939 the distillery was moved to Caloocan City. The distillery's operations were affected during the Japanese Occupation in World War II. After the war, the distillery was once more up and running. Today, the current president is the 5th generation of the Limtuaco family. The distillery is located along EDSA, near Balintawak in Quezon City.

- The museum is open from Tuesdays to Sundays. Currently, you may pay for a regular ticket, or a special ticket that includes entrance and 6 free shots of whichever Limtuaco product you wish to taste. Of course, I had to get the special ticket to see what was so special about their products.

You'll meet a model of a carabao before entering the actual museum. It's supposed to show how sugarcane was ground to get the juice to be turned into alcohol later. 

- The museum's first gallery is nothing short of spectacular. Giant distillation machines and barrels will welcome visitors to get a glimpse of how alcohol is distilled from various products like sugarcane or corn. Speaking of which, the first product of the distillery was the Chinese herbal wine I mentioned earlier. That's called "sioktong." This medicinal alcoholic drink was supposed to give people more energy. The distillery still produces sioktong today.

Giant barrel.

Sioktong ingredients.

Distillation machines.

First four presidents, from the first four generations of the Limtuaco family.

- The second gallery features packaging machines from the past, as well as its bar where you can take samples of their products. You can purchase their products from the museum as well. I tried a few of their products since it was included in my ticket. Of course I had to try some of their most famous products, like sioktong and the White Castle whisky. As someone who doesn't drink much alcohol, I appreciate the bar selling cold water so I can drink between between shots of alcohol.

The distillery logo.

Bottles for alcohol.

With packagine machines.

At the bar, the barista was showing me their products. The one she's holding is called Gaz, and is available in stores everywhere. I liked Gaz because it only has 7% alcohol so it's not too strong. It comes in green (apple vodka), and red (strawberry margarita).

This is the current incarnation of sioktong.

The dragon fruit wine was surprisingly tangy. I guess that's what fermentation does to the usually subtly-flavored dragonfruit.

White Castle whisky. I can never like whisky (any whisky) I'm sorry. I'm just really not used to the taste, and I think whisky is inherently strong.

This is me pretending to know how to drink.

Chocolate liqueur. Interesting, I think I kind of like it.

Again, pretentious me, pretending to know how to drink.

- The museum's third gallery is located at the second floor. The second floor shows some of the prized products of the distillery through time, as well as some objects owned by the former presidents of the Limtuaco Distillery.

Second floor gallery.

The pride of Destileria Limtuaco.

The desk and things of Julius Limpe, the fourth president of the distillery.

- I appreciated my short visit to the museum. Even though this isn't the kind of topic I'd normally be interested in, it was still nice to understand how alcoholic beverages have been done in the Philippines. I'm happy that the museum has since reopened as they have been closed since the pandemic began in 2020 until a few months ago. I hope people will get to visit this museum, both enthusiasts of alcoholic beverages, and casual goers just like me! There is so much to learn not only about alcohol, but also about the history of the Philippines!

Manila at Night: The Spirit of History, the History of Spirits

- Feb. 26, 2022, Saturday.

- I've always wanted to do a night tour of any city, and it has been on my mind for a few years now. I've definitely gone around cities around the word at night, but night tours are different since they add a bit of the spookiness in your regular tours. I normally don't like joining tours since I like the flexibility of going around alone. However, a night tour is probably one of the few times that I'll gladly join a tour, since I don't want to go off exploring the supernatural on my own. If this scares you right now, fear not. These night tours will only infuse the supernatural in their stories, but they don't necessarily let you (or force you) to do anything supernatural (like the Spirit Questors.) These kinds of tours are, still, very much historical.

- I recently discovered Intramuros After Dark (click here), headed by tour guide and history enthusiast Mr. Butch Pedalino. It took a while for me to reserve my slot because of the recent COVID-19 surge. Fortunately, when I was hesitating to take a slot, I was told that they were having a big promo - which made my decision about joining the tour a lot easier. (Do inquire them directly in case there are changes in the price and tour format.) To make the tour more fun, I invited my friend Justine to tag along. Intramuros After Dark is a walking tour, so if you decide to join, just make sure to wear comfortable shoes, bring water and maybe some snacks, and most importantly, an open mind. Tours by Intramuros After Dark are only available on the weekends, unless you wish to book a private/exclusive tour off schedule, which can be arranged.

- The tour began at Escolta around 5pm. The actual meeting place was the First United Building's museum, the First United Building Community Museum at the second floor. The building was originally built in 1928 as the Perez-Samanillo Building, until it was acquired by the Cojuancos and the Syliantengs in 1979. The small air-conditioned museum had various everyday things, photos, and documents from the Sylianteng family from as early as the Second World War. The Syliantengs have been a family of businessmen. Their current surname was derived from their patriarch, Sy Lian Teng, who established Cosmos Bazaar after migrating to the Philippines in the early 1900s. The family had plenty of highs and lows especially during the Japanese Occupation of Manila, but they were able to become successful after the war. Apart from eventually owning the building, at some point they also owned Berg's Department Store. It was one of the first department stores in the Philippines, first owned by the Berg family until it was sold to the Syliantengs. It was located at the ground floor of the First United Building, now occupied by the Hub: Make Lab.

The community museum. Most of the items were from the stores owned by the Syliantengs.

Yay for friendship!

The mysterious painting. It's a painting of Evelyn Berg Empie, daughter of the first owners of Berg's Department Store. She wasn't supposed to be smiling in the painting (as can be seen in a photograph in the museum that was used as a reference for the painting.) No on knows why she was painting with a smile.

Inspecting the artifacts.

Mr. Butch, our amazing guide.

The haunted telephone.

We were given a few minutes to roam at the Hub: Make Lab, which used to be Berg's Department Store. Saw this mannequin. The Hub: Make Lab is a quirky bazaar that honors locally-made products and Manila's past.

Mirror selfie!

Lobby of the First United Building. Plenty of celebrities rented spaces in the building, one of its long-time tenants was the late comedian, Dolphy.

- After sundown we headed out, and passed by the man-made canals of Manila that used to bring goods from Manila Bay and Pasig River to the smaller streets of old Manila. We also walked around Escolta, before heading towards the Pasig River. Escolta, by the way, had its boom during the American Colonial Era, and some of its buildings have retained their original look though they have been repurposed. Escolta used to be the "place to be", "to see people and be seen", and "to rub elbows with people." When business centers moved elsewhere starting from the 1960s onwards, Escolta lost its luster. (You may look at more photos of Escolta from one of my older blog entries: click here).

First United Building from the outside.

One of Manila's many man-made canals. (Manila was a bit like Venice in the old days, no?)

One of the famous filming locations in Escolta, usually by action films.

Formerly the headquarters of M.Y. San Corporation that sold ice cream and crackers. Interestingly, it is occupied by another ice cream store (Big Scoop) for the longest time.

Calvo Building, one of the haunted buildings in Escolta (most buildings in Escolta are haunted anyway.)

The now partially-demolished Capitol Theater (I posted a link to one of my older blogs of Escolta above, see how Capitol Theater looked before it was demolished!) 

- We passed by the Jones Bridge, which is one of the bridges that go over the Pasig River. It is also one of the oldest, with its first incarnation built in 1920. It was a plain-looking bridge for the longest time until it was renovated after 2016 when Isko Moreno became mayor. They tried to make it look like how it was in the olden days.

Jones Bridge at night.

Manila Post Office from Jones Bridge.

The New Chinatown Gate from Jones Bridge.

Lighting was so difficult omg.

- After crossing the bridge we went through a series of underpasses until we reached the Manila Post Office and Heroes Park. I had never visited Heroes Park before since it wasn't the safest place in Manila. Well, it's not perfectly safe today, but a lot of lights were installed as part of Isko Moreno's beautification projects of Manila. It is now a nicer place to visit, especially at night.

The post office was brightly lit. No, the colors do not represent any political party running in the May 2022 elections. The colors are based on the Philippine flag as there was a non-election-related event happening in front of the post office that night.

Me!

Justine took this nice photo of me and Mr. Butch. Oh by the way, Mr. Butch does not know that I teach history. HAHAHAHA. (But I still learned a lot from him!!)

What we all need right now.

A piece of the Berlin Wall (fragment 22) at the Heroes Park. This was donated by Germany to the Philippines. (Learn more about the Berlin Wall during my trip to Germany: click here).

Memorial for the "desaparecidos" or those who have disappeared during the Martial Law decades ago. A certain politician, whose family is related to the Martial Law and related atrocities, is running for president in this year's elections. Please vote wisely. 

The Manila City Hall at night.

Saw the musical fountains in front of the Andres Bonifacio Monument.

Andddd, speaking of the Andres Bonifacio monument, which by the way I saw for the first time up close. (I had always seen it from the car.)

One of the panels of the Manila underpass murals.

- The ghosts around the area, from the Post Office to the City Hall, had much to do with atrocities committed from the Spanish to the Japanese eras. In central Manila, it's easy to ignore as the thought of ghosts are often overshadowed by its bustling ambiance. However, when it comes to haunted Manila, nothing beats Intramuros.

- For those who don't know, Intramuros was a walled city ("intra" + "muros") that served as the beating heart of Manila in the Spanish era. It was established in 1571 and housed the elite and the powerful beings of Manila (i.e. the Spanish and the mestizos). Intramuros became flat after the bombings during the Battle of Manila in 1945. Similar to other Japanese colonies, it was also around this time when the "Rape of Manila" occurred, with countless civilians being victims by Japanese forces. Needless to say, Intramuros is overpopulated with ghosts with "bad deaths." 

Intramuros houses at night. Most of these were repurposed, or new buildings that had to be made to look like Spanish-era buildings.

Tour in action.

San Agustin Church, which I found out, was built with the help of a lot of early Chinese migrants due to their good relations with the Augustinians.

This is called "piedra china" or Chinese granite. The inscriptions were brought from China to the Philippines to help balance and weigh the boats they were on. The stones were later left in Manila. They may be from recycled tombstones, or the Chinese people on the boat to the Philippines.

Outside Casa Manila.

- I guess what made the tour a little bit creepier was that our other three tour companions decided to leave the tour midway due to various personal reasons, leaving me and Justine alone with the tour guide. Mr. Butch said that we were lucky as it seemed like a private tour from them on. Unfortunately the last part was the creepiest as he shared more ghost stories and creepy facts of various buildings such as BF Condominium and the Aduana. (I did not take too many photos until the end of the tour because I was really just creeped out.)

Manila Cathedral at night. Look at that velvet sky!

One of Jose Rizal's former dormitories when he was studying in the University of Santo Tomas, which had a branch across this structure. It is now an eatery.

- To cap off the tour, we had a short prayer, followed by a reminder to not go home directly as one would when visiting a wake. He also gave us small bags of salt at the start of the tour, to be used in a ritual cleansing right before going home at the end. It was around 9PM when we finished the tour. After Mr. Butch parted ways with us after crossing the Jones Bridge back to the Chinatown side, Justine and I wanted to make things a bit lighter. We decided to have dinner in Binondo since we had not eaten since the tour started at 5PM. 

Happy tourists, happy tummies. (Btw, this was in Cafe Mezzanine, one of my must-go restaurants in Binondo.)

- Overall it was a new experience to see Manila at night on foot (after the beautification efforts of the City Hall), and to hear stories that are not commonly told in history classes. I like the thrill of the creepy side of the tour but at the same time I'm not sure if I'll want to do it again in any city - knowing me, I probably will HAHAHAHA. That is, as long as I have company and I do not have to do anything related to the occult because that's a different matter altogether. I would definitely recommend this tour for the historically inclined who love urban legends!