Uh-mazing Uzbekistan!! (Part 3): Samarkand's Majestic Madrasas, Mosques, and Mausoleums

- December 26, 2025, Friday.

- If I were to sum up Samarkand in a word, it would be "majestic". As the former capital of the Timurid Empire, I don't see a reason why it wouldn't be majestic. The city is filled with turquoise-domed or turquoise-decorated buildings, such as mosques, madrasas, and mausoleums. Timur was fascinated with the color blue because of its relation to protection and peace, but also a statement of wealth due to the available turquoise and lapis lazuli in the region.

- When talking about blue buildings in Uzbekistan, the first thing that will come to mind will be the "poster boy" for its tourism campaign: the Registan. This public square is surrounded by three main madrasas or Islamic universities: Ulugh Beg Madrasa (1400s), Sher Dor Madrasa (1600s), and Tilya-Kori Madrasa (1600s). Although most of the former classrooms and residence halls have been converted to souvenir stores, some rooms were turned into small museums. I loved everything about the Registan. It was worth visiting in the early morning before the crowds start entering the square, and even better to walk through the madrasas' tiled halls. For people who like to take photos, the sky is the limit; there were just so many good photo spots I had to choose which places I wanted or else I wouldn't stop taking photos! 

I am here OMG.

I'm so glad I got one of these Central-Asian kaftans to complete the look.

Sher-Dor Madrasa, known for its tiger figures above the entrance.

At Ulug Beg Madrasa.

At Sher-Dor Madrasa.

The tigers of Sher-Dor Madrasa.

There are some small museums like this.

Yes, you can go up the second floor at the Ulugh Beg Madrasa.

- From the Registan Square my family decided to take time off while I proceeded to the Bibi Khanym Mosque. It was dedicated to Timur's wife, Saray Mulk Khanum. Completed in 1404, the mosque was finished in a hurry so there have been architectural flaws from the beginning. It didn't help that various natural instances, lootings, abandonment, and political reasons contributed to the mosque's deterioration; it was later restored by the Soviet era. During its heyday, the mosque was at some point the tallest mosque in the world. Its beauty also owes itself to the signature turquoise color of Timurid architecture. Interestingly, there is also a story about how the mosque's architect had an illegal relationship with Timur's wife. It is said that the architect would not finish the mosque without a kiss from Saray Mulk Khanum. When Timur found out about the kiss, he had the architect executed.

Stone Qur'an stand with Qur'an.

Main iwan (the rectangular gateway of mosques.)

From the side.

I really loved taking photos at the mosque. It surprisingly had less people than I had imagined. The dome at the back is the side dome.

Was dizzy going around and around just to get the perfect flowy-kaftan photo.

View from below the main iwan.

A peek of the mosque's interior. (We weren't allowed to go inside the mosque, and there was nothing much inside too.)

From underneath the dome of the side dome.

Mosque from afar.

Bibi Khanym Mausoleum across the mosque.

- A brief walk from the mosque, is the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. Although the current mosque was built in the 1800s, the site of the mosque has been used for religious purposes for the longest time. Mosques and temples have occupied the site. The mosque is quite unusual not just for its architectural style, but also because it's built on the side of a cliff. It is also the location of the mausoleum of Uzbekistan's first president, Islam Karimov.

Hazrat Khizr Mosque.

Islam Karimov Mausoleum.

Bibi Khanym Mosque and Mausoleum from the balcony of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque.

Mosque courtyard with the mausoleum.

Balcony.

I love the mosque's very random geometric details.

- Around the corner (and some few hundred meters) from the Hazrat Khizr Mosque is one of the more unusually beautiful places I've visited in Central Asia. The Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis isn't the first royal cemetery or mausoleum I've visited, yet its location and stunning colors can make people forget that it is a place for the dead. The necropolis was built from the 11th to 19th centuries (spanning 800 years!) 

This corridor full of turquoise tiles is what really surprises people upon entry to the main necropolis up in the hill from the entrance on flat ground.

Different shades of blue.

Mausoleum for Shirin Beka Oga, Timur's sister.

It was difficult taking photos at the necropolis since there were many passersby.

Octagonal crypt of Timur's sister.

More tombs behind the corridor.

Another collection of blue royal tombs at the back.

- I met my family for lunch afterwards, and had a second visit to the Registan Square. (Yes, I had to buy a ticket again). Since my dad wasn't feeling too well in the morning, he wasn't able to explore the Registan. I also realized that I hadn't seen the interior of the Tilya-Kori Madrasa's golden mosque (this is the madrasa in the center of the Registan).

Mosque inside the Tilya-Kori Madrasa.

Chorsu Trading Dome beside the Registan.

Mausoleum of the Shaybanids. The Shaybanids were competitors of the Timurid Dynaasty.

Can't believe I'm holding the Registan!

- I also happened to stumble upon a store inside the Sher-Dor Madrasa that rents costumes with a photographer. I took my chance to become a "sultan" for a couple of minutes because I was already at the Registan after all!

Love these photos so much!!

For men, there were costumes for royalty or warriors. I, of course, chose royalty.

Calling people to pray.

My love goes out to everyone!

- We later had dinner at Boulevard Restaurant and Bakery, and has become one of our favorite restaurants not only in Samarkand, but our whole stay in Central Asia. Our day might have ended, but certainly not our adventures in Samarkand. The Registan is definitely the highlight (not once, but twice in a day!) but Samarkand is more than "just" the Registan!

** Check out my other adventures in Central Asia and Malaysia here!

KAZAKHSTAN

Part 1: Ascension Cathedral, Shymbulak, Souvenir Shopping - here

Part 2: Charyn Canyon, Kaindy Lake, Kolsay Lake - here 

Part 3: First President Park, Kok Tobe, Museum, Metro Stations - here

KYRGYZSTAN

Part 1: Ala-Too Square and Museum, Souvenir Shopping - here 

Part 2: Issyk-Kul, Konorchek Canyon, Burana Tower - here

TAJIKISTAN

Part 1: Iskanderkul Lake, Souvenir Shopping - here

Part 2: Hisor Fortress and Dushanbe City Tour - here

UZBEKISTAN

Part 1: Tashkent - Amir Timur Square, Broadway - here

Part 2: Samarkand - Gur-e Amir, Souvenir Shopping - here

Part 4: Samarkand - Ulugh Beg Observatory, Afrasiyab Archaeological Museum, Ishratxona - here

Part 5: Bukhara - Lyab-i Hauz and Surroundings - here

Part 6: Bukhara - Ark of Bukhara, Bolo Hauz Mosque, Chor Minor, Po-i Kalyan - here

Part 7: Tashkent - Museums, Besh Qozon, Khast Imam Complex, Metro Stations - here

MALAYSIA     

Part 1: MICHELLE YEOH!, Petronas, Little India, Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong, Jamek Mosque, Pasar Seni - here

Part 2: Batu Caves, Putrajaya, KL Tower - here      

Uh-mazing Uzbekistan!! (Part 2): Someone's Somewhere in Samarkand!

- December 25, 2025, Thursday, Christmas.

- Tugging my luggage early morning to a train station isn't my idea of a perfect Christmas morning, but looking forward to a new adventure is. From Tashkent, my family rode the Afrosiyob train (highspeed train) from Tashkent to one of Uzbekistan's historic capitals, Samarkand.

- Booking a train ticket may be a bit tricky, because people have reported experiencing glitches or hurdles in either the Uzbekistan railway website or mobile app. My best tip is to create an account (free to register) in either the website or app (they're both the same system). The millennial that I am, I normally use a laptop to book things like train tickets. But if booking through the website doesn't go smoothly, the app may work better (either one or the other, depending on what works better when you book your ticket.) Train schedules are often available around 60 days before the day of intended travel. However, in many cases, the train schedules will update a month or less than. It is often best to monitor the schedules starting 60 days as the schedules become available in an unpredictable manner. Most people would choose the Afrosiyob or highspeed rail, and tickets may run out quickly since tour groups have early access to tickets, and locals would want to travel using this train too. I was fortunate to have gotten VIP-class seats, which are more spacious and will have modest snacks for free (like in an airplane.) If the Afrosiyob trains aren't available, the slower Sharq trains are fine in terms of duration, but they may not be as comfortable as the Afrosiyob trains.

- I had a lovely view of the Uzbek country side on the way to Samarkand. After a two-hour ride, we finally arrived in Samarkand and hailed a YandexGo car to our hotel, Hotel Minor. I chose this hotel in particular not only because of its good service, but also because of its location: it stands conveniently behind the Registan Square (and if you don't know what the Registan Square is, it is THE place to see in Uzbekistan, and possibly the whole of Central Asia). The hotel's rooftop dining area, which is open the whole day, gives a stunning view of the Registan away from the crowds.

Somewhere in the middle of Uzbekistan.

Afrosiyob train.

View of the Registan from Hotel Minor's roofdeck.

- The first place we visited was something I was excited to see. As much as I was excited to see everything, the Gur-e Amir, or Timur's Mausoleum was not just significant because it is the resting place of Timur the Great, but it is also the prototype for other similar-looking monuments built much later, such as India's Taj Mahal. (By the way, the royals of the Mughal Dynasty of India, responsible for the Taj Mahal, were all descendants of Timur the Great!) Built in 1404, the tomb was supposed to be for Timur's grandson, but eventually become a mausoleum for Timur's family.

Gur-e Amir. See the resemblance to the Taj Mahal?

Main crypt. Amir Timur is the black one. His grandson, Ulugh Beg, is the one to the left of the photo closest to the camera. Ulugg Beg has been a celebrated sultan because of his contributions to astronomy and math.  

Mausoleum ceiling.

- Just across the Gur-e Amir is the Rukhobod Mausoleum. Built in the 1300s in an older architectural style, the humble mausoleum appears to be one of the oldest standing monuments in the city. Though less colorful and far smaller than the Gur-e Amir, it was erected in honor of the Islamic theologian Sheikh Burhan al-Din Sagarji (his family members were eventually buried there as well.) He was responsible for spreading Islam eastward to East Turkistan, now known as China's Xinjiang province.

Rukhobod Mausoleum. (I didn't go inside anymore because it was so small, and I had to buy a ticket.)

- We later had lunch at Boulevard Restaurant & Bakery, then passed by Amir Timur's statue in front of the restaurant. We also passed by the park beside the statue to see the Christmas bazaar (which is closer to the Filipino way than the European Christmas markets), as well as the flag of Uzbekistan.

Can't believe I'm in Samarkand. Never thought I'd see it ever.

Amir Timur.

Can I take home this peacock ride??

Flagpole.

Christmas bazaar.

- With some time to spare, we decided to pass by Siyob Bazaar (sometimes spelled as Siab Bazaar), which is the main market of the city. It is said that the spot has been the beating heart of trade and agriculture for around 2000 years. Like most markets across Central Asia, it not only sells wet goods, but has a wide array of souvenirs as well.

Siyob Bazaar.

Spices.

It was honestly a really huge bazaar. Didn't seem like it from the outside.

- We had some down time after visiting the market, but I was just too excited so took a peek at the Registan Square. I actually wanted to know how things were like, so I'd know where and how to take photos of myself the following morning. I also realized that in the winter, there aren't a lot of tourists even during the peak hours of the day. (Good for me, I guess.) I took photos anyway, because why not! It was just too gorgeous and majestic!

First view of the Registan.

More about this in the next blog.

- Taking the advice of our hotel staff, we had a nice Christmas dinner at Labi G'or, a traditional restaurant just in front of the Registan Square. The food was good but I wasn't sure how to feel about the restaurant - it even had a parrot in the middle of the restaurant because why not.   

My Christmas photo.

Again, a parrot in the middle of the restaurant.

- We ended Christmas by beholding the Registan at night. We also thought that there would be some kind of light show as the internet says that they have it everyday. Many tourists were also waiting for it, only to find out from the guard that they weren't going to do it this winter (not sure if they don't do light shows every winter.) But the pretty lights illuminating the Registan are there every night, so we did see something.

Registan at night.

We also got these Central-Asian cheese curds. They were chalky and a bit salty. Maybe it's not for me because they remind me of hard frozen cheese, but at least I got to try it. 

- Samarkand was remarkable and it was only our first day in the city. I couldn't wait to explore more of Samarkand because this was really my goal when I started thinking about visiting Central Asia many many years back. I still couldn't believe that I was already in the former majestic capital and surely, a lot more was in store for me!  

** Check out my other adventures in Central Asia and Malaysia here!

KAZAKHSTAN

Part 1: Ascension Cathedral, Shymbulak, Souvenir Shopping - here

Part 2: Charyn Canyon, Kaindy Lake, Kolsay Lake - here 

Part 3: First President Park, Kok Tobe, Museum, Metro Stations - here

KYRGYZSTAN

Part 1: Ala-Too Square and Museum, Souvenir Shopping - here 

Part 2: Issyk-Kul, Konorchek Canyon, Burana Tower - here

TAJIKISTAN

Part 1: Iskanderkul Lake, Souvenir Shopping - here

Part 2: Hisor Fortress and Dushanbe City Tour - here

UZBEKISTAN

Part 1: Tashkent - Amir Timur Square, Broadway - here

Part 3: Samarkand - Registan, Bibi Khanym Mosque, Shah-i-Zinda, Hazrat Khizr Mosque - here

Part 4: Samarkand - Ulugh Beg Observatory, Afrasiyab Archaeological Museum, Ishratxona - here

Part 5: Bukhara - Lyab-i Hauz and Surroundings - here

Part 6: Bukhara - Ark of Bukhara, Bolo Hauz Mosque, Chor Minor, Po-i Kalyan - here

Part 7: Tashkent - Museums, Besh Qozon, Khast Imam Complex, Metro Stations - here

MALAYSIA     

Part 1: MICHELLE YEOH!, Petronas, Little India, Chinatown, Kwai Chai Hong, Jamek Mosque, Pasar Seni - here

Part 2: Batu Caves, Putrajaya, KL Tower - here