Wonderland Indonesia (Part 1): Jakarta Basics!

- April 1-2, 2023, Saturday-Sunday.

- Finally, I made it to Jakarta! A trip to this Indonesian megacity has been playing at the back of my mind for the longest time, but just didn't have the chance to go. Jakarta is the current capital of Indonesia, and is located in the island of Java. It has been the capital since Indonesian independence from the Dutch in 1945, but that might change in the near future as a new capital city is being built right at this moment. Although this is my first time to Jakarta, it is actually my second time to Indonesia as I had been to Bali almost a decade ago (see here and here). This time, my agenda was to visit Jakarta and the historic city (and former Indonesian capital of) Yogyakarta.

MUST KNOWS!!

- I flew to Jakarta in the evening of 31st March, and arrived past midnight of the first. The biggest April Fools surprise came to me immediately since all the money changers in the airport were closed, so I didn't have any money for a night. At the very least, sim card stalls were still open, and I was able to get myself a Telkomsel sim card. People will say that sim cards in the airport are quite expensive, and that's actually true, but since the best way to reach the city is through mobile car-hire apps like Grab or Gojek, it's worth buying a sim card immediately.

- Speaking of car-hire apps: Grab or Gojek? Grab is Southeast Asia's "Uber" (it actually merged with Uber a few years back), while Gojek is the local car-hire app. In Indonesia people often prefer Gojek for hiring either cars or motorcycles since it's cheaper and easier to get a ride. Gojek was my main mode of transportation in both Jakarta and Yogyakarta. Both cities have forms of public transportation, but I found Gojek more practical. I also wanted to avoid the Indonesian taxi scams, so Gojek provided a hassle-free way of getting around.

- In Jakarta, I stayed with Wonderloft Hostel (click here), which is located in Kota Tua. I absolutely loved my stay there! Dormitory-style rooms and private rooms are available, although all toilets/shower areas are for sharing. That was fine for me. (Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo!)

- Before I go straight ahead, I'd just like to say that I initially didn't know that I was traveling to Indonesia DURING RAMADAN. Ramadan is a month-long period of reflection and fasting. Muslims break their fast each sundown, which they call "iftar" or locally known in Indonesia as "bukber" (from "BUKa BERsama"). Because Indonesia is not a Muslim-exclusive country, it is still possible to find food everywhere during the day. However, because Indonesia is a Muslim-majority country, there are some stalls or small restaurants that might be closed during the day. (Unfortunately, these are the ones I usually go for, since I like trying local food. Don't worry, I was still able to eat!) I also avoid asking people where to find food during the day.

ON TO THE ADVENTURE!!

- I started by morning in Kota Tua, where my hostel was. Kota Tua was the former downtown of Batavia (Jakarta's old name.) It reminds me a lot of Manila's Intramuros, so I immediately felt at home in Kota Tua.

- I took some photos at the square before having breakfast at Cafe Batavia. Cafe Batavia does not only serve great (and semi-upscale) Indonesian food, but its building itself is historical. Built in the 1800s, it was a residence and an office at some point, and eventually became Cafe Batavia in the 1990s. I adore the cafe's interiors, which is based on the 1920s/30s. 

At Fatahillah Square, with the Jakarta Museum (formerly town hall) in the backgrond.

Panorama of Fatahillah Square.

Breakfast.

I super super love the interiors!

Nasi goreng and a fruity "healthy shake" topped with the biggest basil leaf I've ever seen in my life.

- After breakfast I had to quickly hop over to the money changer (Dolarindo is often recommended) before continuing to go around Kota Tua. Its most prominent landmark is the Jakarta History Museum, formerly the town hall during the Dutch Colonial Era. It was built in the 1600s, and now shows both the ancient and colonial history of Jakarta. (The museum also has a reasonably-priced giftshop near the exit. Be careful: there are two gift shops: a more expensive one, and the reasonably-priced one. The reasonably-priced shop looks "simpler" but it does have a good variety of goods.) 

Part of the Jakarta History Museum.

This window at the second floor is a famous photo spot because it has both the Indonesian flag and a nice view of Fatahillah Square.

Colonial glory.

This mural was made by Harijadi Sumodidjodjo in the 1970s. It was left unfinished after he passed away in 1997, and due to water leaking through the walls. The mural showed how life was for the residents of Batavia back in the day.  

- The square also has two other museums: the Wayang Museum and the Ceramic Museum. The former was an old Dutch church from the 1700s. The latter was the Court of Justice from the 1800s. Both became museums in the 1970s.

Former church turned into the Wayang Museum (Puppet Museum.)

These two puppets were probably 10 feet tall! 

Typical wayang kulit.

Wayang figure designed with Arabic calligraphy.

I find this interesting: wayang kulit of Christian figures. (Jesus is the one at the far right.)

At the Ceramic Museum, located across the Wayang Museum.

Contemporary ceramic art.

- I had a bit of rest in my hostel after going around Fatahillah Square, trying to recover from my late night flight the night before. I later decided to spend the rest of my afternoon in Thamrin City, a mall in central Jakarta perfect for buying batik, accessories, and perhaps some souvenirs. (It reminds me a lot of Metro Manila's Greenhills Shopping Center!) It was overwhelming, and I suggest spending a good number of hours there as there are just too many things to see. (Make sure to haggle!!)

Thamrin City. It is a very big mall.

This is not even half of it. There are two basement levels omg.

- That night I had dinner at KFC in Kota Tua, since it was closer to my hostel, and I often like trying out menu items from international fastfood chains that seem more "local." In Jakarta, I was able to try their chicken rendang with avocado shake meal. I like it, especially as someone who likes spicy food.

Chicken rendang meal with avocado shake.

- The following day I explored Central Jakarta where most of the main tourist sites are. I first had to visit Jakarta's most iconic monument: the National Monument or "MONAS" ("MONumen NASional"). It was constructed in the 1950s after the capital moved back to Jakarta after Yogyakarta's short stint as the country's capital. The monument was finished in 1975. The park where the monument is is free, but a ticket is necessary to go inside the monument. It was the brainchild of President Sukarno right after Indonesian independence.

MONAS. I also decided to wear something close to Indonesian colors: red and white. My pants are green though. Let's just say that my green pants represent the ecological diversity of Indonesia HAHA.

Merdeka Palace (Presidential Palace) from the top of MONAS.

Itstiqlal Mosque from the top of MONAS.

Another view of MONAS.

- Near MONAS is the National Gallery, originally an 1800s Dutch residence. The gallery had both permanent and temporary exhibits. The gallery wasn't as big as I had imagined, and so it didn't take me long to finish going around the gallery. 

National Gallery.

I appreciated the full-blast air conditioning.

- I took a Gojek to Istiqlal Mosque after visiting the gallery, which is located northeast of MONAS. The Istiqlal Mosque is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia. A design competition was announced after Indonesian Independence, and a Christian architect was proclaimed the winner. Having a Christian architect design a prestigious mosque, as it seems, is a reflection of Indonesia's pluralistic society. The mosque formally opened in 1978.

Mosque.

Interior.

- Since I wasn't a Muslim, I was led to the cultural office where mandatory guided tours are done. This was, people will be able to understand the basics of Islam, as well as the history of them mosque. This also ensures that the sanctity of the mosque is preserved, and that devotees are not disturbed while praying.

My mosque tour guide took this nice photo.

Minaret.

A giant drum that Indonesians in the past would use to call people to pray.

Mosque, with the spires of the Jakarta Cathedral at the back.

- I passed by the 19th-century Jakarta Cathedral, which was packed as it was Palm Sunday. I didn't stay long as the mass was about the start, but at least I was able to get a few photos. 

Cathedral.

The cathedral is air conditioned!

- I walked all the way to Pasar Baru, which is one of the oldest surviving shopping streets of Jakarta. It is vibrant and filled with textile stores, and other specialty shops, as well as thrift stores. (If you're from Manila or have been to Manila, it feels a lot of Carriedo in Quiapo, but a lot less crowded.) Pasar Baru is also known as Jakarta's Little India, and has parallelisms to Manila's own Little India in terms of ethno-linguistic make-up and history. This is why, apart from shopping, I tried to look for some Indian landmarks in Pasar Baru. They were quite scattered, and most were not open.

Southern gate of Pasar Baru.

Mahatma Gandhi School.

Pasar Baru.

A nice batik store. Bought a couple here.

A big department store chain. Although "Ramayana" is an Indian epic, it is actually owned by an Indonesian tycoon. Indonesia is highly Indian-influenced.

Sathya Sai Study Group.

- From Pasar Baru, I went back to the MONAS area to visit the National Museum, located east of MONAS. It was established in the 1700s, and is the foremost institution in the study of Indonesian history and culture. The museum also has a new wing with more exhibits. Among the museums I visited in Indonesia, it was perhaps one of my favorites because it was the kind of detailed cultural exhibit that I always look for in a national museum (apart from the air conditioning!!) 

So many Hindu-Buddhist statues OMG.

Various Indonesian religious textile.

Giant elephant carving. It's around more than 5-feet tall.

Map of Indonesia with pictures of its different ethnicities.

Traditional toy made from palm leaves.

Museum.

- I spent the rest of the late afternoon back in Kota Tua and going around Fatahillah Square. I found out that the square is even more alive at night with people just sitting on the square just talking and chilling with each other. 

Fatahillah Square at dusk.

- My first two days in Jakarta had been eventful, a good warm up for the bigger adventures to come in Indonesia. However, the places I wanted to visit the most were in the next leg of my trip to Indonesia - Yogyakarta!

- Don't forget to check out my other adventures in Indonesia this trip!!

Part 2 (Yogyakarta - Borobudur and Prambanan): here

Part 3 (Yogyakarta - Downtown): here

Part 4 (Jakarta - Glodok, Taman Mini): here

HOLI MANILA IS BACK!

- March 11, 2023, Saturday.

- Holi is back in Manila this 2023 after years of pandemic-caused disruptions! As usual, it was held in SM Mall of Asia By the Bay. Unlike in the earlier iterations of Holi in Manila, this year is was mainly organized by the Indian Cultural Association of the Philippines (ICAP), in partnership with other Indian associations such as the Indian Women in Enterprise (I-WE) and non-Indian organizations such as Asia Society Philippines. Both ICAP and I-WE are young associations in the Indian community, which makes this event more significant. ICAP was supposed to hold it's first ever Holi in 2020, but lockdowns were imposed shortly before they were able to hold the event. This making the 2023 Holi celebration a few years in the making - and it was just amazing!!

- For those not familiar with Holi, Holi is one of the major Indian festivals. In the Philippins, this is one of two major Indian festivals celebrated publicly by the growing Indian community, the other being Diwali (known as "the festival of lights" and takes place in Autumn.) The Holi Festival welcomes spring, and is best known for people throwing colored powder and spraying colored water at each other. There are also other more detailed explanations depending on the religion, such as Hinduism. Holi is also not too common in Southern India as a religious celebration, but some South Indians do decide to participate and play with color during Holi.

Love the costumes!

Getting ready.

Throwing color at each other is very much appropriate.

- In the Philippines, Holi is always done in a controlled manner, which I appreciate the most. The organizers always provide the colored powder packets, and are certified hypoallergenic. The other important thing to me too, is that they colored powder they chose easily comes off in the wash!   

- Unlike the past, the organizers chose a side of MOA that was more spacious, so it was more comfortable going around the kiosks (mostly food stalls). It was also easier to find chairs and tables when I needed to eat. The stalls present were facilitated by I-WE, who tapped on Indian women entrepreneurs (most of which specialize in food products.) 

Do try Savories and Sweets by Karina! They make some of the best homecooked Indian meals! (You may reach them in IG or Facebook, just search for their store name.)

Many many Indian food stalls!

- I went around the venue alone, but I was very happy to reconnect with old friends and some whom I have communicated with in online platforms during the pandemic. Truly, Indian events like these feel like the multiverse of my lives as I get to meet so many people I've encountered in various situations in the past.

- The program was also a mood lifter (because it's Holi after all!) From bhangra performances, devotion dances, and the endless beats of Indian music, there was not a single dull moment from the blazing afternoon until sunset.

A few words from ICAP! That's Ms. Shalini Saha, the main organizer of Holi Manila!

The main highlight! Holi hai!

Endless dances.

So many people.

The day won't end without bhangra!!

I look like the 80s spat me out. But hey I love colors so I don't mind!

Some people had way too much color (but that also is quite appropriate!)

With Roshan, the resident host of Holi in the Philippines and one of the best hosts ever! (And a good fiend too!)

- I've attended various Indian events in and out of the Philippines. Without biases, I've always had some of the best Indian celebrations here in the Philippines - like Holi Manila! Congratulations to all the organizers, especially ICAP and I-WE, for finally bringing Holi back to Manila! This was something I truly missed during the pandemic! 

The Sound of Music in Manila! - The Hills are Defo Alive!

- March 7, 2023, Tuesday.

- The hills are alive once more in Manila with The Sound of Music!! The stage production of The Sound of Music is here in Manila from March 7 to 26 at Samsung Performing Arts Theater in Ayala Malls Circuit. It was brought to Manila by GMG Productions, which also brought Matilda, the Lion King, Cats, and other big productions to Manila and the Asia-Pacific region. Though mainly an international cast, local artists Karylle and Markki Stroem appear in the musical as Baroness Schraeder and Rolf respectively. Tickets are still very much available in the official Ticketworld website (click here).  

I feel more like Godzilla than Maria.

Yay! I also tried to wear something trachten-inspired although I have a lederhosen and trachten suit at home. In hindsight, I should've gone all out! ("Tracht" or "trachten" refers to the traditional clothes of Southern Germany, Austria, and other related regions.) 

- For those who probably have never heard of "The Sound of Music," it is a semi-fictionalized story of the Von Trapp Family singers, who lived during the eve of the German annexation of Austria. The family is headed by Captain Von Trapp, a highly-decorated navy officer. He hired a governess named Maria Rainer who eventually taught the Von Trapp children how to sing. This stage production was originally done in the 1950s, although its most famous version is the 1965 film, starring Julie Andres and the late Christopher Plummer.

Edelweiss.

You'll see this once you go up the escalator to the main lobby.

- I've watched the movie over and over and over again throughout the years but seeing the musical alive will forever be a different immersive experience. This is the magic of theater. Since the musical is based on the stage production, some songs appear in scenes you probably wouldn't expect them to be in. Some songs in the film are also not in the stage production, and some songs are in the stage production but not in the movie. The pacing is also slightly different since the movie had an easier time bending time through montages, while the stage production had to be....a bit abrupt in some parts of the narrative. (I'm trying to be quite vague, for those who probably wish to watch.) 

- Overall, I loved the performance! Jill Christine-Wiley and Trevor Martin as Marita and Captain Von Trapp were perfect. More importantly, I must say I now have a newfound respect for Markki Stroem - whom I normally ignore when I see on TV because I thought he was just one of those mestizo actors TV stations hire. I wasn't actually aware that he started out in showbiz as a singer, and that he was active in the theater scene in the Philippines apart from his appearances in TV and film. (This being said, I guess I need to watch more local productions too.) As for Karylle, I have seen her in local productions (top of my mind is "Rama Hari" in 2012), so it was no surprise that she gave life to Baroness Schraeder really well too! However, I guess a super minor concern would be the theater's microphone situation since there were some instances of the actors' microphones not working for a second or two. However, it didn't really affect the overall experience of watching the play.

Hills covered in blue....clouds?

- I'm so glad I was able to watch the musical because I was actually saving money for something. However, God probably wanted me to see this because I earned a decent amount of money from a recent wedding I attended (I joined/was forced to join games in that wedding) and so I had some money to spare for a ticket. I love The Sound of Music so much I even did some sort of "pilgrimage" to the filming locations of the movie when I went to Salzburg a few years back (see here, here, and here). I'm hoping that more people would come watch since I was surprised that not a lot of people knew that the musical is currently showing. So why not take a chance? Go to the hills now, maybe your heart is lonely? Or climb ev'ry mountain, 'til you find your place....in the theater!  

Korean Village: The Way I (Will) Remember It

- Feb. 24, 2023, Friday.

- Before the battalion of unlimited samgyupsal restaurants shaped the way Filipinos understand Korean food, there was Korean Village in Malate. It was "THE" Korean restaurant, and one of the earliest Korean restaurants in the heart of Manila. It opened in 1978, and was the go-to Korean restaurant of many Manilenos. It was owned by the Filipino-Korean Tallos family. Recently, it became the talk of the town once more, because the current owner decided to close the restaurant after many years. Obviously, I had to go for one final meal.

Kamsahamnida!

- Due to the proximity of Malate to Chinatown, many Chinoys or Chinese-Filipinos had their first taste of Korean food in Korean Village. If I remember correctly, I was introduced to Korean food here as well. I couldn't remember much of what I ate in the past because we didn't always go there. However, I had a personal connection with Korean Village in the late 2000s just as the Korean Wave or "hallyu" was gaining popularity in the Philippines. I had frequent trips there with friends who were also interested in all things Korean. I remember celebrating a few birthdays there, and receiving my first ever K-Pop CD as a birthday gift from my friend (a SHINee CD, of course!) Back then, Korean CDs and other fan merchandise could be only bought in Korea or other Northeast-Asian countries. It wasn't long after those were sold in the Philippines as well. I also remember eating in Korean Village after watching SHINee live - and for free! - in 2009 when they performed at the 60th Korea-Philippines Friendship Festival at CCP. However, I ate at Korean Village less and less in the past decade due to the emergence of many authentic Korean restaurants, and of course, the unlimited samgyupsal craze. I also regularly went to Korea before the pandemic for conferences and other events, so I didn't long for Korean food too much. But despite that, Korean Village was still an important part of my formative years as a hallyu fan. Because of all these reasons, I just had to go back to Korean Village even when it meant braving the long lines of other nostalgia-filled diners.

- I met my friend Sharmaine in Korean Village, and it took us more than an hour before being seated. The restaurant was too overwhelmed by the number of customers since they never had very long lines ever (at least, that's what we were told.) 

A former student of mine was inside, and saw me standing outside the window. She took this photo to show how miserably hungry I was.

- I was surprised to see celebrity chef Margarita Fores who dined that noon and met with the owner. According to her during our brief small talk, she tried to convince the owner to not close down this jewel of a restaurant, to no avail. (I was told that the owner had medical conditions that needed a long time to treat.) Margarita Fores was one of many famous people who went to Korean Village for one last bite. That's how significant Korean Village is/was!

With Chef Margarita Fores. (If y'all don't know her, she owns Cibo!)

- Sharmaine and I were eventually seated, and had budae chigae (Korean army stew), a plate of assorted raw meat for grilling, and haemul pajeon (seafood pancake). It was a simple meal (well OK the budae chigae was quite big for the two of us!) with some of the many must-haves!

My favorite "look at me I'm grilling" pose.

We're enjoying our food.

Budae chigae.

Super spontaneous meetup but I'm glad we met again! We haven't seen each other since....maybe a year or two?

- After dining, I had one last photo with the restaurant, and as you can notice, I didn't shy away from wearing my hanbok, because why not! 

A last look.

Annyeonghaseyo.

- Korean Village holds a place in my heart and the hearts of many. Korean Village closed on the 25th of February 2023, the day after I ate. The long line was worth it for a place that meant so much! Kamsahamnida, Korean Village!