(Part 3) Busan, the Southern Frontier: From Touristy Seas to Colorful Slopes

- April 13, 2019, Saturday.

- Busan might not be filled with tourist spots with every turn of the head like the bustling South-Korean capital of Seoul, but Busan is not short of good spots to visit. After a series of successful meetings in Seoul and Busan, I celebrated my last day - and only free day - by going around Busan on my own before my flight back to Manila that night. I knew I was not going to have enough time to visit all the items off my must-see places, so I chose three places to visit so I wouldn't be rushing too much. After all, travel time is a bit unpredictable in Busan as the roads go up, down, through mountains, and so on, and some sites are not near the metro stops.

- I woke up around 6 in the morning not only to start my day early, but to catch the sunrise in Haeundae (Haeundae metro station.) Haeundae has gained popularity among locals and visitors because of its proximity to the city and its wide stretch. It also gained popularity due to the 2009 Korean disaster-themed film "Haeundae" (English title "Tidal Wave"); this makes me wonder why all the hypothetically bad things happen in Busan (remember Train to Busan?) or why people want bad things to happen to Busan haha.

- To be honest, it looks like any ordinary beach. I just like the fact that it's literally beside the city. As mentioned in an earlier post (click here for Part 1), Busan reminds me a lot of Waikiki, or even downtown Honolulu (click here to see my trip to Hawaii). To make things interesting, I did a photoshoot there as "Yongwang" or "Dragon King." The Koreans believe that "Yongwang" is the god of the sea and weather, as well as the god of dragons and the lord of all sea creatures. This mythological figure was originally from China (called "Longwang,") and is also recognized in Japan and Vietnam.   

My interpretation of a modern "Yongwang."

The beach does have its charm, even though I don't usually like going to beaches.

This is me as Yongwang, waterbending. Haha.

Just to prove that I am not in any random sea/beach in the world. Hahahaha.

- I hastily went back to the hotel after my morning shoot so I can change my clothes, have breakfast, and go on to my next stop. I had to move quickly since I had to be back at the hotel by 3:30pm before going to the airport with my other colleagues. I finished my breakfast like a vacuum cleaner would suck dust on the floor, and rode the cab to Seokbulsa, a temple on a mountain located at the north of Busan (closest to Mandeok metro station, or go to Oncheongjang metro station, walk to Geumgang Park from Exit 1, and take the cable car.) However, do note that the temple is HIGH UP THE MOUNTAIN, and taking the cab is the easiest way to reach the temple. The cab will reach a certain point of the mountain, and the rest is a mere 5-10 minute hike up to the entrance.

Entrance.

- I chose to go to Seokbulsa (after Haedong Yonggungsa that is,) among all the other historical temples in Busan even though it was one of the youngest historical temples - being only built in 1930, because of its distinct appearance. The monk who built this temple noticed that the rock formations on this mountain formed some sort of folds, making the temple easier to hide and the monks to have some peace and quiet. Today, it remains to be one of the most secluded temples, visited usually by devotees and usually-middle-aged hikers. The most appealing thing about this temple is the collection of Buddhas and heavenly beings carved directly at the side of the mountain. Seokbulsa actually reminded me a lot of the Air Nomad Temples in Avatar the Last Airbender because of its location and look.

Carvings at the side of the mountain. Still makes me wonder how they did this before.

It has narrow stairs.

Altar.

At the mid-level.

Images of Dangun, the alleged/mythological first king of Korea.

Plenty of Buddha statues.

Buddha after Buddha after Buddha.

- Although the temple was nice to see, the way out was a challenge. Taxis do not hang out much at the higher levels of Seokbulsa, so I had to find my way down the mountain. It was not difficult as there were signs, more or less paved paths, and other visitors/hikers who can be of help if you're not sure where to go. I was supposed to go to the metro station just in case a taxi wouldn't drive past me. I was almost near the ground when out of nowhere, a taxi appeared before me like some divine unicorn. I rode the cab to my final destination for the day - the famed Gamcheon Village.

- Gamcheon Village is located far from Seokbulsa and nearer to the downtown. Because of the distance and traffic, it took me around an hour to reach Gamcheon Village (Toseong metro station, then ride the bus to Pusan National University Hospital OR....as I strongly suggest, ride a cab from Toseon station if you took the metro.)

- Gamcheon Village is known today a an artsy village with pastel-colored houses. It was originally a shanty town made by the Korean War refugees, but the residents later decided to paint their houses to attract tourists and businesses (talk about creative and sustainable!!) Apart from coffee shops and artsy stores, there are also a lot of traditional and pop-cultural activities and attractions in the village. Just a tip, in Busan this is the best place to buy souvenirs; the Nampodong area in the downtown has some souvenir shops but they're scattered and hard to find. 

In rainbowland.

Your colorful bodyguard.

Feeling the breeze and the view.

It doesn't look as intimidating as how it used to look before the houses were painted.

Hello Little Prince.

Too bad I wasn't able to go inside!!

More of Gamcheon.

- Going around the village can be confusing, so it's also best to buy a map at the tourist center. The map also has prescribed routes depending on how much time you have. Since I didn't have much time left, I took the shortest route, but saw the souvenir shops right before leaving and got carried away buying incredibly cheap hanbok vests.

- I rode the metro back to Haeundae and had a late lunch. I made it in time to my 3:30 call time and rode off to the airport after rearranging some things in my bag.

My favorite dish before leaving Korea - bibim naengmyeon.

- My trip to Korea this time was short and busy, and had I known about my trip to Korea earlier I would have decided to extend so I could escape the burning heat of peak-summer Philippines. However, I was still happy that I was able to maximize my trip and discover unseen corners of Seoul, or experience a different region of Korea like Busan. Korea just keeps surprising me each time I go back, and I wouldn't want my trips to Korea any other way!! (See my trip to Seoul here, Busan Part 1 here, Part 2 here!!)

(Part 1) Busan, the Southern Frontier: Train to Busan (Literally), and Korea's "Most Beautiful Temple"

- April 11, 2019, Thursday.

- Most people I know know one thing about Busan: "Train to Busan." It was a highly popular South-Korean zombie-apocalyptic film starring Korean actor Gong Yoo that came out in 2016. It was about a virus that turned people to zombies, and the zombies were "programmed" to infect other people by biting or scratching them. The title was named as such as the zombie virus infection happened as Gong Yoo's character was riding a train on the way to Busan from Seoul.

- I was in Seoul for around 2.5 days (click here to see) before my colleagues and I rode the KTX train to Busan from Seoul Station - the very same thing that happened in the film. Seoul Station is the main station in the capital city, with trains that go to all other parts of South Korea. It is also connected to the metro system of Seoul.

Seoul Station.

The old Seoul Station beside the new one.

Namsan Tower at the far back.

- Although the 2.5-hour ride to Busan from Seoul was far from being infested with zombies (thank God!), it did not stop me from having fun at the train by semi-discretely reenacting some scenes from the movie. (Thank you colleagues for being a part of this by taking my photos and letting my have my fun.) The ride was scenic - I saw the mountains, farms, plains, and valleys of Korea, until we reached the southern port city of Busan where I saw a stunning view of the bay. By the way, Busan is known for its high mountains and vast seas.

Having fun inside the train (click to enlarge.)

Me annoying my colleagues.

Busan!!

Busan Harbor Bridge.

Another angle of the Busan Harbor Bridge.

- It was my first time in Busan, and I was happy that it was still a bit chilly just like Seoul, but a lot less rainy. We checked in our hotel in Haeundae, known for its beaches but far from the downtown area of Busan (around 30 minutes to an hour by taxi.) Speaking of transportation, Busan has a metro system and the T Money used in Seoul can be used here as well. However, most sites are not conveniently located near the subway/metro, and some areas are quite high up in the mountains, so the taxi is the best and most convenient way to go around Busan.

- Since we had a free afternoon, some of my colleagues and I visited what is dubbed as the 'most beautiful temple in Korea" - Haedong Yonggungsa ("Eastern Sea Dragon Palace Temple"). It was built in the late 1300s Goryo Dynasty and was renovated after being destroyed by Japanese invasions in the 1500s. The Yonggungsa is unusual as it is a temple that overlooks the sea; most Buddhist temples can be found in the hearts of cities so they can easily be accessed by the royalty, politicians, and lay people; or on mountains or hills where the monks can have some peace and quiet. However, listening to the waves crash against the temple's foundations and smelling the subtle fragrance of the salty ocean smell do seem to have a calming effect.

The 12 animals of the Chinese/Korean zodiac welcome people.

What are you looking at?

"Haedong Yonggungsa."

Tunnel to the most breathtaking view ever.

See what I told you?

Of course there's me.

You said so.

My brothers!!

Buddha.

Colorful gates based with the 5 elemental colors of eastern Buddhism.

This view keeps reminding me of Miley Cyrus' song "When I Look at You."

Should have known about this when I was still studying.

- It is best to ride a cab to Yonggungsa as it is quite far from the city. Taxis for hire can be found at the parking lot, as many people do go back to the city by taxi as well. Convenient, right? However, if you are feeling adventurous, ride the train to Haeundae metro station and ride bus 181 from the station's Exit 7 to the temple.

- We took the cab back to Haeundae as the temple was closing during sundown. We spent the rest of the evening exploring the Haeundae area. It was nice to know that the beach was just around 300 meters from our hotel! I know I'm not much of a beach person, it was still a nice discovery. Well, even if I was, the 14-degree-Celcius temperature was not a suitable temperature for swimming in the sea. 

- Haeundae is a vibrant part of Busan. I keep thinking of the Haeundae as Hawaii's Waikiki, where all the (expensive) high-rise hotels are and all the touristy stuff. Just outside our hotel, rows and rows of restaurants (with all sorts of cuisines!) lined the street leading to the sea.

That's our hotel by the way. Haha.

There's a fountain in the middle. Reminds me of Seoul's Gwanghwamun Square.

SEAFOOD STREET OMG.

Restaurant after restaurant of fresh seafood!!

One day....I will eat a giant crab. ONE DAY.

Busan at night.

Haeungdae at night.

Other side of Haeundae.

- I always like walking at night in Korea's big cities because it's generally safe in Korea, and the cities seem to have a different life and aura at night as compared to their daytime selves. To be honest, cities like Seoul or Busan feel more "alive" at night than during the day. However, we couldn't stay out too long as we had to prepare for our meetings the following day. Despite our tight schedule, I was still excited to see and experience the southern frontier of Busan!! (See my trip to Seoul here, Busan Part 2 here, and Part 3 here!!)