"Thai" Will Always Love You (Part 1): Phahurat (Little India) and "Indian Diaspora in Asia" Conference at Mahidol University

- July 17-19, 2024, Wednesday to Saturday.

- I really really missed Thailand and I'm glad I had the chance to go back after 8 years! My third time in Thailand was a work trip; I had to present a paper at a conference held at Mahidol University on the Indian diaspora in Asia.

- After arriving in Bangkok on the 17th, I immediately checked in the hotel provided by the conference in Nakhon Pathom (the province right beside Bangkok), and immediately set out to inhale some Bangkok air! My first agenda was to visit Bangkok's "Little India", a neighborhood called Phahurat/Pahurat. It is closest to Sam Yot MRT station, though these days, getting a Grab in Bangkok is not only cheap, but comfortable too (compared to the Philippines, the same price can go twice as far in Bangkok more or less; traffic is far better there too!). 

- I passed by some notable establishments in the area, including Old Siam Plaza mall and its Siamese-European architecture, and Nightingale-Olympic department store. I wandered the streets of Phahurat, and realized that this is one of the places to buy Thai traditional costumes and accessories.

Old Siam Plaza, opened in 1993. The site used to be an old market.

The ground level was made to replicate a market.

Not the biggest fan of mango sticky rice, but I guess it is a must in Thailand.

Nightingal-Olympic, the oldest department store in Thailand. It opened officially in the 1960s, but its earlier incarnation opened in the 1930s. 

- I later ventured to the Sri Guru Sabha Gurudwara, opened in 1981, though its roots go as far back as the 1910s when the first Indian Sikhs went to live in Bangkok. 

Gurudwara facade.

Main prayer hall.

Facade from across the street.

- I also peeked inside India Emporium beside the gurudwara, a mall that sells Indian clothes, accessories, and fabric. It is a modest-looking mall with great finds!

Inside India Emporium.

Mall facade.

- From the gurudwara, I walked a few blocks to Yaowarat, at least the part closest to Phahurat, and looked around Wat Chakkrawat Rachawat Woramahawihan (Wat Chakkrawat for short). It was built probably in the 1700s, and is not only known for its golden Buddha in the ordination hall, but also its crocodile pond based on a legend concerning a wild man-eating crocodile that was caught and taken care of in the temple.

One of the smaller halls.

At the ordination hall, overlooking the other halls.

Outside the ordination hall.

At the courtyard.

Real crocodiles at the pond.

The ornate ordination hall (I actually had to take a photo of this on another day since the hall was already closed when I first visited the temple.)

Such detail!

Golden Buddha.

- I was so tired from all the walking in Bangkok's humid heat that I had to return to the hotel afterwards to cool off and work on my research. (Honestly, this was one hectic trip!) At least I was able to maximize whatever time and energy I had on my first day!

- The next days were devoted to the Indian Diaspora in Asia conference in Mahidol University. I appreciated Mahidol's campus: it's really big but cozy, or maybe that's just the building where we had the conference. I presented a paper on how Indians in the Philippines use malls for their cultural events - and what malls mean to the Philippine society.

Conference ready, with my new Indian vest from Phahurat!

At the Prince Mahidol Hall, one of the newest buildings in Mahidol University, built in 2014. It was patterned after the United Nations building in Bangkok.

This was one of the snacks prepared in the conference. I initially thought it was something like tanghulu, but the outer coating is like jelly with the sweet mung beans inside.

Mahidol University is home to some....wildlife. This is one of the few monitor lizards I saw on campus. I don't know why it's carrying a stick.

Dressed nicely for the day, and at the same spot. It was the day I was presenting. Coincidentally, it was also my mom's birthday. I wore the colors of the flag of India because of the conference, but the shawl and my necklace are Thai, honoring the location of the conference. (Yes I really thought that out.)

Conference ready once more.

My conference presentation.  think I did a good job.

- I had an eventful first few days in Thailand, and I couldn't believe how time flew so fast because of my hectic schedule (+ other work after going back to the hotel). However, this was just the start of many things to experience in Bangkok! 

- Check out my other adventures for this Thailand trip!

Part 2 (Nakhon Pathom): here

Part 3 (Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun, Kudeejeen): here

Part 4 (Chinatown, Wat Saket, Giant Swing): here

Part 5 (Ancient City, Erawan Museum, Terminal 21): here

A Piece of India in Manila!!: A Spectacular Night of Classical Dance, Music, and Food!

- November 10, 2019, Sunday.

- It is always a delight whenever I get to attend Indian events all around Metro Manila, since I feel that I am getting in touch with my past life, at least, if you believe in that sort of thing. Kidding aside, these events give me more chances to interact with the cultures of India and of course, the members of the Indian community as well. This time, I was once again invited by Natya Mandala to attend a solo Bharatanatyam dance performance, held in RCBC Plaza.

- Natya Mandala is the premier and currently the only Indian classical dance school in the Philippines. Its founder and teacher, Mrs. Shanti Sreedhar, is an award-winning Bharatanatyam and Kuchipudi dancer. Bharatanatyam is one of India's oldest dances, dating a few thousand years young, and is known for its extensive dance vocabulary expressed mainly through its hand gestures or mudras. Though originating in South India, the Bharatanatyam is well-loved by many Indians outside the region, and is studied by Indians in and out of India, as well as other non-Indian enthusiasts.

Mrs. Shubra Chatterjee, our emcee for the night.

Opening the event by lighting the candles/lamps.

The statue bears the image of Shiva Nataraja, which is Shiva's incarnation as the "Lord of the Dance."

H.E. Jaideep Mazumdar, the ambassador of India to the Philippines.

- This particular solo dance performance featured young Somya Duggal, the 22nd student of Natya Mandala to perform an "Arangetram" in the dance school's history. This was my second time to witness an Arangetram, and it was such an honor to be part of Natya Mandala's and Somya's milestone. I wrote about my first Arangetram last year (click here); allow me to lift a few lines from my previous Arangetram post to explain what an Arangetram is: "[a]n "Arangetram," which means "ascending the stage," is a kind of rite of passage ceremony in the world of Indian classical dance. It is a debut solo performance by a disciple; think of it as the solo performances students of music conservatories do, or solo exhibits that art students organize before they graduate [...] Once the student or disciple has successfully done this performance, the student "graduates" a level and can actually perform by themselves. However, in order for them to professionally teach or choreograph, they have to continue learning and understanding other principles and nuances of the dance form. They must learn other forms of "margams," or the traditional path of the Bharatanatyam repertoire; it is a course or a set in which several Bharatanatyam numbers are arranged in a particular way." For Somya, it took 9-10 long years of hard work, dedication, and perseverance, with a dash of color, a pinch of radiance, and heaps of spirit before being able to have her own Arangetram!!

Poster!

- As an Arangetram being staged in the Philippines is also an honor of the Indian community, the performance was attended by important people from the Indian community and friends of India, such as H.E. Jaideep Mazumdar (the ambassador of the Republic of India to the Philippines), Dr. Ramon Acoymo (Program Director of the Cultural Center of the Philippines National Music Competition for Young Artists (NAMCYA); and Member and Chair of the Philippine Commission on Higher Education (CHED) Technical Panel for Music,) and Mr. Diwakar Gupta (Vice-President of the Private Sector Operations and Public-Private Partnerships of the Asian Development Bank). Indian performing arts rarely have their share of the spotlight in the Philippines; by supporting schools like Natya Mandala and encouraging students like Somya, future generations of the Indian community may be encouraged to be torchbearers of culture and pass it down to even younger generations.

A pose from the Mallari, or invocation dance.

Mrs. Sreedhar sits on a small stool at the side of the stage, and plays the beat of the song.

Incredible balance!

- The set of the stage was quite simple - a statue of the Nataraja on one side, and a small stool on the other side, where Mrs. Sreedhar would sit and play the rhythm of the songs. The backdrop, however, was what wowed the audience: Somya's family brought in (an giant image of) the rainbow-painted Meenakshi Amman Temple to RCBC! The Meenaksi Amman Temple is a 13th-century Hindu temple located in Tamil Nadu, the birth state of Bharatanataym. This temple is dedicated to Meenakshi, the fish-eyed incarnation of Parvati, the wife of Shiva.

Larger than life image of the Meenakshi Amman Temple.

Portraying Kali, Parvati's wrathful incarnation. Look at her facial expression!!

A pose from her Jathiswaram number, which is an abstract dance form.

- As per tradition, most of Somya's dances were drawn from Hindu mythology. Those who are familiar with characters and gods from Hindu mythology may be able to recognize certain poses as they portray certain items (ex. flute, trident, big ears, lotus, etc.) or attributes (ex. wrath, playfulness, etc.) closely linked to these characters. I always enjoy watching the Hindu tales I know come alive on stage, especially through the talent of a well-trained artist!

Bharatanatyam costumes always fancy me. Just look at the details front and back, top to bottom!!

Teacher and student.

Shiva Nataraja pose.

What a kick!!

Invoking the divine. This is exactly what I look like when I need divine intervention in my life haha.

Lord Krishna, who is always shown with his flute.

I love the lighting here.

Meenakshi.

- Apart from the Hindu nature of most dances, and the abstract nature of some, it was interesting to know that the dances chosen for an Arangetram usually have something to do with the background of the teacher or the student. The dance numbers performed by the student may be dance routines taught by the teacher's mentor (as a tribute to the mentor of the mentor,) dances with characters or movements that reflect the nature or characteristics of the student, perhaps a certain god followed by the teacher or student, and so on. Sometimes, dances may also be inspired from certain temples and the sculptures found in those ancient temples.

Another Shiva Nataraja pose.

Presenting a token of gratitude to Mrs. Sreedhar.

Paying respects.

The "Thillana," a dance with fast footwork and sculpted poses.

To be a Bharatanatyam dancer, one must be able to show plenty of emotion through the face, apart from movements.

A simple stage with a world created by the dancer.

- After the performance, Somya was given her certificate, and all were invited to have a sumptuous vegetarian Indian dinner at the reception hall. I was able to catch up with my former Hindi teacher, and my former student. The best moment of all? Meeting Somya herself!! I was starstrucked, probably because it was my first time to see a Bharatanatyam dancer up close (with costume and all)!! The funny thing was, when she sat down to have dinner at my table and started talking to her family members and companions, it reminded me that despite the impressive emotional maturity shown on stage, Somya was still a regular kid, one who could do big things.

Awarding! That's Somya's family, with Mrs. Sreedhar and Mrs. Chatterjee. 

Lighting was bad huhu, but this was my attempt to have my photo taken with the image of the Meenakshi Amman Temple.

With my amazing Hindi teacher, Mrs. Goswami!!

With Somya!

With my former student Sparsha.

And of course, none of this would be possible without Mrs. Shanti Sreedhar of Natya Mandala!

- Although the Bharatanatyam performance was the last of a string of activities that I had to attend that Sunday, the Arangetram awakened my tired soul and inspired me to not stop pursuing the arts. I hope that there will be more performances like this and other Indian cultural activities, so the Philippines can get to know India a bit better. After all, both countries are celebrating the 70th anniversary of Philippine-Indian bilateral relations this year, though Philippine and Indian linkages have been around for centuries!!