Home for the Holidays (Part 3): More of Vigan City and Neighboring Bantay

- Dec. 28-29, 2023, Thursday to Friday.

- Vigan is a small city that has seen so much history - and many remnants of that history can still be seen today. This is Vigan's appeal. 

- On my second full day in Vigan, I started my day by visiting the Vigan Cathedral, also known as St. Paul Cathedral. It was completed in 1800 and made in the earthquake baroque style, a common architectural style in the Philippines during the Spanish colonial era. Unfortunately, it is currently having its facelift after the big earthquake that took place in July 2022, which damaged many buildings in the region.

I don't know why but this photo makes me feel like this is somewhere in Latin America.

A statue of Jose Rizal at the Salcedo Plaza.

Because why not.

Because why not Part 2.

- I find the cathedral unique as it has two plazas in its vicinity instead of one: the Salcedo Plaza (in front of the cathedral, where Gabriela Silang was hanged, and where there is a nightly dancing lights show) and the Burgos Plaza (in honor of Father Jose Burgos).  

Burgos Plaza. (This place, by the way, is known for its empanada stalls. The stalls can't be seen in this photo but you'll immediately see them once you go to the plaza.)

The McDonald's in Vigan was made "hispanic", architecturally.

The archbishop's residence, located beside the cathedral, and known for its museum of religious artifacts. Unfortunately it's currently closed, also because of the earthquake. 

- From the plaza I rode a tricycle to the adjacent municipality of Bantay, specifically to the Bantay Church. Although it was actually walkable (around a kilometer,) the sun was just too strong. At least I didn't arrive drenched in sweat.

- The Bantay Church was built in 1590, and is known for its hilltop belfry that also acts as a watchtower. Because of this watchtower, the municipality of Bantay got its name, from the Filipino word "bantay" or "to guard."

Bantay Tower.

I looks amazing, but also incredibly unsafe because of all the cracks.

Like in the Luna watchtower, there are church staff (at least it's more "legit" here), who volunteer to take nice photos of you. Payment is also by tips. Because this guy took many nice photos of me, and made sure there were no photobombers, I gave him a nice tip.

Inside Bantay Church.

Scaffolding, and a little bit of Bantay Church.

- The church is also having a "facelift", and the watchtower is also off limits. However, guests can see the watchtower from the gate. In the past, people could actually go near or even up the tower. Currently, it is unsafe because of the damages from the earthquake.

- From the church I rode the same tricycle back to Vigan, and took some photos in front of the Burgos House and the Old Carcel, which I wasn't able to do the day before as there were too many people. I then spent the rest of the morning "doing my rounds" in Calle Crisologo (because really, what's not to love about this street, day or night.) I also did another calesa ride, because I wanted to do it during the day this time, and to see just in case I wasn't able to visit anything else. 

Crisologo's "quieter" end.

My calesa ride.

Trying to hide from the heat.

Calesa parking behind Burgos Plaza.

- I had lunch in our Vigan home before visiting Mira Hill in the afternoon. Mira Hill is a hill-top children's park that was unfortunately left to age poorly. I wanted to visit Mira Hill because I saw during my morning calesa ride that there is apparently a "Buridek Children's Museum" that I wasn't able to come across during my trip preparation before going to Ilocos. Apparently, this children's museum is also not operating as it was a project by the former mayor. (Sigh, the wonders of politics.) However, I would like to thank the caretaker for telling us to "check it out" to see if we're interested. The museum was built inside several small cottages, and had no locks, so we were able to peek inside. Some of them had power, so we were allowed to turn on the lights. Over all, I think I had a nice visit, but I really wished that they were able to maintain this nice museum of children!

At the children's museum. I still wonder why they let this state of a pig do manual labor haha.

One of the highlights of the Buridek Children's Museum is its miniature sites of Vigan.

The main "cottage".

I dare not get on that calesa.

My new family. HAHA.

- I spent the rest of the afternoon in Hidden Garden, which is quite far from the city center, along Bulala Street. Hidden Garden opened in 1991, and is a place where one can appreciate quirky artwork, buy plants and some local products, as well as eat in their restaurant/cafe. (Please take note that their food can take an infinity to arrive, especially during peak hours, even for the simplest meal. So maybe just do the first two instead.) 

Hidden Garden.

Many famous people have visited.

Some of their displays.

There are a few of these large-lipped sculptures across the property.

For my non-Filipino-speaking friends: "Your mouth will look like this if you're a gossipmonger."

Truly a magical place.

"Poqui poqui" may sound inappropriate in Filipino, but in Ilocano, "poqui poqui" refers to this eggplant dish in the photo.

Surrounded by bonsai.

Plants for sale.

Pretending I'm in Thailand (which, by the way, I miss a lot.)

A "jazz singer."

A few steps away from the Hidden Garden is its extension, which is a small events place. For some reason, it is Japanese themed.

Wasn't I just in Japan? HAHA.

- That night my family, some of our staff, as well as some family friends had a boodle fight dinner (my "training" in eating Indian food with my hand came in handy). The following morning, I had another tour, this time more complete, of the Baluarte Zoo because why not, right? I was already there anyway. This was the last major thing I did in Vigan before I left the city.

Again with the giraffe and the deer.

Giraffes are....really huge.

Had a photo with a sleepy white lion.

A piece of the Cordilleras. By the way, this photo reminds me of the photos I took in Uluru (Ayer's Rock) in Australia, particularly of Katatjuta! (See here).

At the rooftop of Chavit Singson's golden mansion, which is open to tourists.

Peacocks, because peacocks.

I met my student there. I asked her about my thesis. She nearly ran away.

Snake.

Camel.

My new ostrich friend.

Obviously, cannot go inside.

Oh, I had pinakbet pizza for lunch that day, it was my last lunch in Vigan. We picked this up from Cafe Leona, which is located in Calle Crisologo. We didn't eat there because there were too many people.

- Vigan is a place with so many memories, a lot more than I thought I did. Despite some places either closed or under renovation, I felt that it was about time that I revisited a part of my childhood. If not for the long long distance to go to Vigan, I would love to go there more frequently. It may look similarly to Manila's Intramuros, but Vigan has a cozier feel, while Intramuros has a grander feel. Anyway, this wraps up my trip to Vigan for now, yet the Ilocos adventure for this trip does not stop here!

(Part 4) Zamboanga's Zest and Best!!: Zamboanga's "Latin" City Center

- Nov. 2, 2019, Saturday, All Souls' Day.

- There are surely lots of things to see and do in Zamboanga City, and despite the reputation of the city and the whole region of Mindanao, Zamboanga is surprisingly safe! After all that I've seen and done in the past three days in Zamboanga, there was one place that I had not been to; this is probably one of the most important landmarks of Zamboanga City, not only for its appearance but for its function. How could the city function well without - the city hall!!

- The city hall was built in Zamboanga in 1907 and was used as a city hall since 1937. Though it was built during the American colonial era, its appearance was inspired by hispanic colonial architecture. Normally, it might be possible to go inside the city hall to take a look, but it was a holiday when I went there so I wasn't able to go inside.

- I was still able to take nice photos of the city hall's facade from the small Rizal Park across the city hall. (No, this is not Rizal Park/Luneta, in Manila, but yes, it is one of the many parks in the country named after the national hero, Jose Rizal.) The park is normally closed, but I was able to talk to the gardener who happened to be there, and he told me that I could perhaps ask permission from the guards at the city hall, especially since I was alone. Fortunately, the people at the city hall were nice, so I was able to take perfectly-angled photos of the city hall.

It's decorated with vinta sails.

I tried to wear something Filipiniana-like to match the colors of the city hall.

Rizal Park.

Rizal is on top.

Another photo, taken near the Rizal statue.

A closer view of the city hall's "tower."

The seal of Zamboanga shows various aspects of its society: the religious harmony between Muslims and Christians, the shrine dedicated to Our Lady of the Pillar (Nuestra Senora del Pilar,) the City Hall itself, the vinta, and of course, tuna.

- Feeling hungry, I had my breakfast at the McDonald's across the city hall. Although eating at McDonald's is nothing special per se, the building that houses this particular McDonald's is. Built in 1928, it used to be the building of the Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China.

The old Chartered Bank building, repurposed. They do this a lot in other countries like Europe or even in India or Japan.

It's right across the city hall.

- After finishing my photoshoot and my breakfast, I walked back to my hotel, passing by Plaza Pershing which is located right behind Rizal Park. Plaza Pershing was named after Gen. John Pershing, an American general who took part in the Philippine-American War. Although the plaza looks like a regular park or city square, it was built as early as 1915! While it is known today as a park with fancy gazebos and fountains, it used to be the place where illegal trade and prostitution took place before the park was renovated and rehabilitated in 2012. Who would have thought that a place shrouded with darkness and sketchiness is now a family-friendly park!

Plaza Pershing.

One if its gazebos.

- I went back to my hotel and rested before one final visit to the Canelar Barter Center, the top place to go in Zamboanga to buy souvenirs not only from Zamboanga, but even Malaysia and Indonesia. Although I had a slightly traumatic encounter during my first day (click here for Part 1) as I sort of "caused" a fight and a commotion in the trade center, I had a rather funny encounter on my last visit. It was the second time I bought from this young Muslim lady, who was covered from head to toe except her eyes, and she was so happy that I decided to buy from her again. She told me that I should say hello to her when I see her in the streets (I didn't tell her I was leaving Zamboanga that day,) but I pointed out, kindly, that I wouldn't be able to do that since I can only see her eyes and I might say hello to another Muslim lady by mistake. She realized that it would be nearly impossible for me to do that, so she said that she can say hello to me instead - or maybe I can recognize her voice! You know, Muslims, like many people, can be funny too. They don't always have to be the stereotypical "terrorist" that most people think of when they hear the word "Muslim." Anyone, regardless of religion can do bad things if they decide to, and likewise, there are many people - Muslims included - who just want to smile, laugh, and enjoy life as any regular joe! (The words "Islam" and "Muslim," by the way, come from "salam," meaning peace, making Islam, supposedly, a religion of peace, and Muslims being peace-loving people.)

Many many many many things to buy!!

The reason why my my travel funds were drained. HAHA.

- To cap of my stay in Zamboanga, what better way than to have another must-experience dish. A popular breakfast dish, but definitely can be enjoyed all day, the "satti" is a common comfort food for the Zamboanguenos. "Satti" is related to the Malaysian word "satay," and refers to meat skewers, usually chicken or beef. In Zamboanga and surrounding regions, these skewers are served with a thick sweet-spicy gravy and puso' broken into little pieces (puso' refers to rice cooked inside woven palm leaves usually taking the shape of a cube, diamond, or pyramid; the rice takes the shape of the woven palm leaves.) Satti is best eaten in a satti place, which normally appear as simple no frills neighborhood restaurants. They usually open early in the morning (around 3 or 4AM) to cater to working people, especially fisherman. According to my Zamboangueno friends, the best place to eat satti is at Jimmy's Satti Haus along Pilar Street - which fortunately was just a few small blocks away from my hotel! It has been serving good satti since 1998. I ordered a chicken satti and some sticks of beef satti. The sauce/gravy and the puso' pieces were, of course, part of the meal. Satti places are also quite popular since their food is more often than not affordable. I think my meal was just 90PHP!!

Doesn't look too appetizing but wait until you taste it!!

No frills.

The white stuff inside the bowls are the little pieces of rice from the puso'. Puso' normally looks like the the ones the red basket to the left of the photo. Those woven leaves have cooked rice inside. They get the cooked rice inside, and throw the leaves in the blue container below the table.

Chicken satti (with some sticks of beef satti above.)

Since 1998.

- I finally said goodbye to Zamboanga after lunch when I got my things from the hotel lobby and rode a tricycle to the airport. My face was bright pink from being sunburnt, and I coincidentally wore a bright pink polo shirt that matched my skin tone. I looked like Peppa Pig at the airport. However, I can say that the tired body, the sunburnt face and arms, as well as the heavy hand carry luggage + my check-in baggage that grew twice its weight when I came to Zamboanga (but did not go overweight!!) were all worth it! Zamboanga City is one of the farthest places in the Philippines that I have been to and I was more than happy that I got to explore it, even for a few days. However, I normally tell people that I refuse to go back to Zamboanga for two main reasons: the food is so great that I get fatter every 10 minutes, and the shopping is great that my wallet becomes empty after 10 minutes!! I hope you'll consider Zamboanga City the next time you plan to go somewhere within the country (for my Filipino friends,) or the next time you visit the Philippines (for my foreign friends)!!

- Don't forget to read about my other adventures in Zamboanga City!!

Part 1, Food Coma, Shopping Coma, and a Bit of History: here

Part 2, Zamboanga's History, Society, and Culture: here

Part 3, The Pink Sand and Colorful Vintas of Santa Cruz Island: here