Showing posts with label brandenburg gate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brandenburg gate. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 8, 2019

(Part 4) Northeast Germany: Potsdam and Its Palaces-a-Plenty

- December 19, 2018, Wednesday.

- If you're staying in Berlin and have time to spare, why not take a day trip to one of the favorite city of the Prussian and German royalty? Potsdam City is the capital of the state of Brandenburg, and borders Berlin. Although it is roughly 1/5 the size of Berlin, this little city is a city of palaces since the Prussian rulers and emperors of the German Empire who ruled over this area thought that it was a great place to think and be close to nature.

- Going to Potsdam from Berlin is incredibly easy. From Alexanderplatz, which is the nearest transportation hub to my hostel, I rode an RE (regional) train straight to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof (Potsdam Main Station.) An S-Bahn train from Alexanderplatz goes all the way to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof as well. These trains also pass by Berlin Hauptbahnhof, which is Berlin's main train station and another transportation hub, for those who stay close to that area. Since Potsdam is outside the city center, one would need to buy a train ticket that goes to Zone C. Since I already bought a 4-day ticket that goes to Zone ABC when I arrived in Berlin, I did not have to buy a separate ticket to go to Potsdam. This ABC ticket is also convenient since it can be used in Potsdam's tram lines that go around the city including tourist spots.

- Upon arriving at Potsdam Hauptbahnhof, I immediately went outside and rode the tram to Alter Markt, or the old market square. Most tram lines pass by Alter Markt, and is usually the first stop from the main station (tram 92, 96, 93 695). The old market was built in the 1600s, and today is surrounded by office buildings, museums, and some university buildings. It reminded me a lot of Pisa's Piaza dei Cavalieri during my visit last year (click here,) which had the same vibe, and was also surrounded by some university buildings.

Alter Markt. The church to the left is the St. Nicholas Church.
- Since I arrived in Potsdam quite early, I took a stroll until I arrived at the Dutch Quarter (Holländisches Viertel). Built in the early 1700s, these Dutch houses were designed to attract Dutch people to stay in the area. Today, these houses are considered to be some of Europe's best preserved Dutch houses outside the Netherlands, and mostly function as cafes, shops, and some offices. Although I walked all the way to the Dutch Quarter, people can ride the tram to the Brandenburger Strasse  or Nauener Tor stops (92, 96, 604, 609, 638, N15, N17; all these go to both stops.)

The quiet winter streets of Potsdam. I know this can be a bit more crowded on a regular day.
Preserved Dutch houses.

Nauener Tor, an 18th-century city gate, and a very modern tram.

- From the Dutch Quarter, I rode the tram (614, 650, 692, 695, 697) to make a quick stop at the Brandenburg Gate. From my understanding, this two-faced gate that used to be part of Potsdam's city wall was built a few years earlier than its more well-known cousin in Berlin, also named the Brandenburg Gate (see here).

Potsdam's Brandenburg Gate.
- After a brief photo stop, I rode on tram 695 to my first main stop for the morning - the Sanssouci Palace (Schloss Sanssouci). It was the summer palace of King Frederick II of Prussia, and is recognizable for its grand flights of stairs outside the palace to the gardens below. The stairs were good enough for a royal fashion show!!

I was already halfway up!!
This palace was often compared to Paris' Palace of Versailles, although I personally think that the Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin is closer to the feel and ambiance of the Palace of Versailles.
At the backside of the palace. The are ruins at the far back.
- One important piece of advice is to book tickets to the palace beforehand, especially since the palace limits it tourist visits per day. The tickets to go inside the palace have a specific time on them, and you should be at the entrance of the palace at the designated time for the audio-guided tour. Each of the Sanssouci's rooms are colored in a bright color - red, yellow, green, depending on the theme. The motifs of the rooms are usually based on nature as well, such as fruits, gardens, forests, animals, or stones, as a way to bring the "outside in." A lot of natural light can also illuminate the room if the curtains are open, and those inside the rooms can have a fantastic view of the gardens outside as well.

A lot of palaces were under renovation when I went.

The very ornate music room.
The thing at the center is not a crack, but a spiderweb.
The marble room.
Ceiling of the marble room.
- The massive garden also has other buildings such as the Orangery and the New Palace, but I did not have enough time to go to them since I underestimated the size of the garden. Instead of going around the gardens, I took tram 695 back to Platz der Einheit and had lunch. Platz der Einheit is a centrally-located square that also acts as an intersecting point of many trams. Right after lunch, I rode tram 603 to the Schloss Cecilienhof tram stop. I was quite scared when I got off because it was an eerily quiet residential area on one side of the small street, and a park (called "Neuer Garten" or "New Garden") with a million trees on the other; the worst part was I was alone for as far as my eyes could see. (I honestly thought I was in an episode of Riverdale.) I went inside the park and found the traditional German-looking Cecilienhof Palace. This palace looks a lot different from the earlier majestic and ornate palaces, because this was built in the early 1900s and was built by the last monarchs of Germany.

Traditional German architecture.
This room was made to look like the interior of a ship, just because Duchess Cecilie was fascinated with ships.

Writing room.
- While it does not look much compared to the bigger palaces of Germany, this small palace is historically significant. After World War 2, the Potsdam Conference was held in this palace to decide how to restore order to the world after the unconditional surrender of Germany in Europe and Japan in Asia. The main leaders who attended this conference were Joseph Stalin (USSR), Winston Churchill and Clement Atlee (UK), and Harry Truman (USA). I was very glad that the palace's conference room was included in the audio-guided tour. Needless to say, I stood in the middle of this room - the largest room in the palace perhaps - for a longer time, looking at that round table where some of the world's most powerful leaders of the 21st century made history. It was interesting to know that during the Potsdam Conference, the palace was separated into three main areas for the three countries that participated. It was only in the conference hall where all three countries met and talked.

Where history was made - the conference room.
USSR, UK, and USA.
The actual Potsdam Conference.
Not allowed to go upstairs.
I stayed too long in this room.
With the Cecilienhof Palace inner courtyard.
- After leaving the palace, I rode the tram back to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof and rode an S-Bahn going back to Berlin. At the hostel, I had a bit more time to fix my things before having dinner with famed German Chef Steffen Burkhardt whom I had the opportunity to work with and tour around Manila while working on a project with Goethe-Institut Philippines late last year. He was kind enough to treat me to a restaurant that does a rather different and modern take on German cuisine.

Thank you Chef Steffen!! It was nice to see you again!!
- That night, I had a deep sleep after a whole day out and a sumptuous dinner. Although it was my last day in Berlin, I was just starting to grow fonder of Germany; I wasn't leaving the country yet at least, and was excited to explore more of Germany. Plenty of people had told me that while Berlin was probably more modern, more hipster, and more historical, I'd surely love the southern part of the country more since it was more traditional and fairy-tale-like. As I was headed there the next day, I could not wait to visit and experience the "fairy-tale wonder" of the southern part of German called "Bavaria" or "Bayern," starting with its capital - Munich!!

- Please don't forget to read about my other adventures in Germany, Austria, and Slovakia here:

GERMANY:

Berlin and Potsdam: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here

Munich and Schwangau: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here, Part 4 here

AUSTRIA:

Salzburg: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here

Vienna: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here

SLOVAKIA:

Bratislava: Click here

Sunday, January 6, 2019

(Part 2) Northeast Germany: A Walk to Remember (in Berlin) - Exploring Berlin's History from Past to Present

- December 17, 2018, Monday.

- Germany is rich in history and Berlin has a lot to show when it comes to German history. Apart from museums, Berlin has also preserved and restored a lot of its important buildings and landmarks, and are marked with informative plaques or visitor guides. In short, Berlin has turned itself into one giant museum!

- After an early breakfast I headed to Berlin's main landmark, the Brandenburg Gate. It is most accessible via the Brandenburger Tor S-Bahn/U-Bahn Station, although I decided to take a cab there because I'd be going on a big u-turn if I took the train from where I was. The Brandenburg Gate was built by the Prussian King Frederick William II in the late 1700s; Prussia was a German state that now has parts in Germany and other surrounding countries, with Berlin as its capital in later Prussian history. Although it initially served as a symbol for Prussian honor, it also eventually symbolized the unity of Berlin after the Berlin Wall was demolished in 1989. This gate was also heavily damaged during World War 2 as can be seen in plenty of photos in museums and textbooks, and was restored right after the war. The road in front of the gate called Unter den Linden is currently a known historical road for shopping and sightseeing. One can also reach the Museum Island from the west by walking or driving through Unter den Linden.

Inspired by the Prussian uniforms. Also, the Prussians are known for their distinct shade of dark blue called "Prussian blue."
Trapped in a golden Christmas ball.
A closer view of the Brandenburg Gate.
- Aside from going along Unter den Linden, other areas around the Brandenburg Gate are also historically significant, which is why I decided to spend a whole day in this central part of Berlin, which is called "Mitte." Behind the Brandenburg Gate, to the north, is the Reichstag or the Parliament Building; it is known by tourists for its dome which can be accessed but prior reservations are necessary. To the south of the Brandenburg Gate is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. This memorial is a public art installation opened in 2005, and is recognizable for its endless gray concrete blocks that are not of the same height. Many tourists, me included, think that these blocks look like coffins of the murdered Jews; it is also said that the uneven height of the blocks, some of which like those at the center can be taller than a regular adult, is suppose to let visitors feel the confusion and the uncertainty experienced by the Jews during World War 2. If only I had more time, I would have strolled through the blocks to feel that sense of confusion and uncertainty. However, I had to get going if I wanted to finish everything I had in store for the day.

The Reichstag.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.
These don't look much now, but wait 'til you reach the center. The blocks will become towers.
- I eventually reached the Topography of Terror, a museum which used to be the site of one of the headquarters of the Nazi regime. Although the museum mostly shows photographs, I was more interested in the outside exhibition that shows what I'd say is a summary of Germany's history in the mid 20th century: the remains of some parts of the Berlin Wall, and underneath it are former prison cells of the Nazi headquarters.

One of the entrances to the Topography of Terror.

Exhibition inside.
Exhibition outside. The gray wall above is one of the remains of the Berlin Wall, and the bricked part below used to be the prison of the Nazi headquarters.

- Later on I continued walking until I reached a rather livelier part of the southern part of the historic downtown. Here, one can find Checkpoint Charlie, or "Checkpoint C," which was one of the checkpoints between the eastern and western parts of Berlin during the Cold War. Today, is a happy tourist site with a fake guard in full costume. Visitors may take photos with the guard, or even dress up like the guards too! Checkpoint Charlie's area is also full of museums related to the Cold War, and if I had a day or two more in Berlin, I would have gone to each one of them. Checkpoint Charlie has its own U-Bahn station, Kochstrasse/Checkpoint Charlie Station.

A sidewalk stall selling communist-era souvenirs.
Metal tiles are placed all over Berlin, and these tiles show where the Berlin Wall once stood. "Berliner Mauer" means "Berlin Wall" in English.
Checkpoint Charlie.
A replica of the original checkpoint.
- Going northward towards the main center, I passed by Gendermenmarkt, which is a square surrounded by the Konzerthaus (Concert Hall), the German Church, and the French Church. As expected, it turned itself into a giant Christmas market for the holidays.

The German Church.
The German Church, the Konzerthaus, and the Christmas market that has occupied Gendarmenmarkt.
Merry Christmas!!
- I walked further north until I reached Unter den Linden after passing by Bebelplatz. It is another public square that is surrounded by St. Hedwig's Cathedral and some buildings of Humboldt University. This area is near the German Historical Museum (Deutsche Historisches Museum), which is located by the banks of the Spree, right before Museum Island (see some of the museums of Museum Island in Part 1 here). The museum was founded in 1987 and currently has a very organized exhibition of German history from prehistory, to antiquity, and finally, to modernity.

German shields.

An Ottoman Turkish tent.
Prussian blue everywhere.

An old piano.
Propaganda art!!
German Empire flag.
Some parts of the Berlin wall.
- The closest metro station is the Friedrichstrasse S+U Bahn metro station, although the nearest entrance is roughly a 10-minute walk from the German Historical Museum. From there I took the train north to the Berlin Nordbahnhof metro station. In this quiet neighborhood, and right outside the metro station, is the Berlin Wall Memorial (Gedenskätte Berliner Mauer). It is an open park, free of charge, which shows a part of the Berlin Wall in its original location, as well as photos and information on the hardships of Cold-War Berlin, and the people who died trying to cross over the wall or were victims of the border police. The Berlin Wall, which existed from 1961-1989, divided Berlin into two parts - the democratic west and the socialist east. People who tried to cross over the wall were mostly those living in the east who wanted to go to West Berlin, and ultimately have a chance to go to other parts of western Europe. After a wave of events, migrations, and revolutions, Germany finally reunited in 1989.

This wall packs so much history.
YES. I AGREE.

Yes!!
More walls.
- Finally, I headed further north Berlin-Gesundbrunnen S+U metro station to join a tour by the "Berlin Underground" (Berlin Unterwelten E.V.) This is a special agency that provides several tours concerning, well, anything related to subterranean Berlin (click here for their website.) Tickets can be bought at their ticketing office and bookstore right beside the station's U-Bahn exit, and depending on the tour, the guided tour can last an hour or two. All tours are guided since the places to be visited are normally off limits and involve tunnels. I took the tour called "Dark Worlds," which talks about the underground air raid shelters from World War 2 that still exist today. To my surprise, the air raid shelter that we visited was right inside the U-Bahn station!! A special door inside the station led people to the underground maze. There are two special things about this tour. First, the paint and most things inside the air-raid shelter are original, and second, whenever the subway train would whiz by, the sound and the vibration caused by the train would perfectly simulate an air raid. It sent chills down my spine because the experience was just too real and immersive (and I like that.) Unfortunately though, photography is not allowed inside.

This is the only thing I can take a photo of - the ticketing office and bookstore.
Celebrated my day by eating a giant (edible) bowl of currywurst, the most popular German street food. Currywurst is just sausage with curry-spiced ketchup.
- After a successful day of learning about Berlin's history, I spent the rest of the late afternoon thrift-shopping in Berlin. Apparently, thrift- and second-hand shopping (we call this "ukay-ukay" in the Philippines) is a thing in some parts of Europe including Germany, and there are a few of these stores around. Some stores I can recommend are Pick n' Weight, and Humana. Pick n' Weight has more "hipster" type clothing, while Humana has more regular clothing and more options for traditional clothes. I also love how these stores are very clean and mostly organized, without much of that old musky thrift-store smell. My main reason for going to these thrift stores is because I wanted to buy traditional German/Alpine clothes that can burn a hole in the wallet when bought from regular retail stores. Imagine this - a regular traditional trachten coat can normally cost around 160-200 euros in regular stores, but I got mine in Humana for just 6 euros (and the one I got looked brand new too!!) I was also ecstatic to know that there were two Pick n' Weight branches and two Humana branches near my hostel. Needless to say, I went crazy that late afternoon.

- With my thrift-shopping hauls, I happily fixed my things in my dorm room that night, and was prepared to immerse myself even more in Germany's hipster and royal cultures the following day. Berlin was a lot more interesting than I initially thought! 

- Please don't forget to read about my other adventures in Germany, Austria, and Slovakia here:

GERMANY:

Berlin and Potsdam: Part 1 here, Part 3 here, Part 4 here

Munich and Schwangau: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here, Part 4 here

AUSTRIA:

Salzburg: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here

Vienna: Part 1 here, Part 2 here, Part 3 here

SLOVAKIA:

Bratislava: Click here